According to nick at manic, no difference. I asked about using one.

 

Yeah, I heard the same. No difference ..
I had contacted CL Performance, they worked with me on my mustang build awhile back, I asked him if he would be interested in looking into the mini MAF .
He said he wasn't wanting to go out of his comfort zone and wasn't sure of the market.

I think the first thing is to test the MAF. Sprintcar showed a flat line at 25 lbs... Now is that the max the MAF can flow or is that the max the turbo can push ? Until we figure that out we can't say the chicken or the egg yet !!
If anyone has a log with higher than 25 please post.
Would anyone with a JMTurbo 45, or oldbrokenwind with his beast turbo have data showing a flat line at 25 we might could say it's the max of the MAF .
One thing as well is Sprintcar has a flat line but his boost never starts to fall, does that mean the turbo is not out of breathe and the MAF IS maxed out ??
Hmmmmm

 

sprintcar - you have a leaf blower ?? Lol
I'm sure you know someone with a flow bench, maybe use your old MAF and see if someone will flow it. Will have to look into wiring , I'm sure it's power and some kind of signal 1-5vdc or 1-10 vdc.......

 

The MAF signal is PWM not the basic 0-5 vdc.

 

I'm afraid my data logs won't help --- my ECU doesn't see anything over 20PSI boost because of the electronic "clamps" (zener diodes, for those knowing electronics) on both MAP sensors. Yes, I can easily push 30PSI, but I rely on an external boost gauge --- no way to correlate it to the ECU.

Now, if someone knows of another way to get the desired results, let me know and I'll try it.

Another consideration --- after sending a datalog to Frankenturbo last year, they commented that my MAF data was probably "artificial" --- put in by the tuner to fool the ECU. The numbers were way too low, and didn't correlate to the rest of the data. Maybe check with your tuner to find out if this is the case? My AP tune was done remotely, knowing I was using "clamps", for up to 25PSI, & possibly more --- he wasn't happy about it.

 

I originally started this thread to buy parts that are available to every common joe that likes to work on and build there own cars without doing any fancy foot work with parts. Like the MAF sensor for example. Just buy the parts. Put them on. Get a tune and this is how it is. I'm not really into trying to manipulate other parts to try to pull everything I can out of it. To me, that's the tuners job in my eyes. Let them do it. I'm happy with the power it puts out. Something happens it's not because of the tune, it's a part on the car. It's easier to troubleshoot and stay running this way. When I first started racing, an old friend who was involved with sprintcar racing for 35 years to me, this racing is actually pretty easy. The problem is people over think it and they are there worst enemy. Keep it simple stupid and you'll be ok. K.I.S.S. So I did. Ever since I built this car I've been having fun. Granted a few parts went bad but other than that it's running and I can just plug the scanner in, figure out the bad part, and keep going. I like that that way.

 

Oh !! And as food for thought for all you guys thinking of buying s turbo, I bought the owen turbo cause that's the only turbo other than the factory cooper stuff that manic had zero issues with when they tune it. No over boost issues no parts breaking. If they advertised it as having something done, it was actually done.
There's a lot to be said for having trouble free service of parts.

 

And the owens turbo has a really nice whistle to it.

 

You should put up some nice track videos

 

Ain't nothing to see on a 1/4 mile run but tail lights. I can post time slips.

 

Time slips. No ecu up dates yet

 

 

Trying like hell to get these slips to post

 

For all the people who are curious about what the fuel pressure is on the low side of the turbo charged cars with the N14 engines. Here's a photo of my car with a gauge on it. It stays this pressure no matter where I'm at in the rpm range and throttle position. It's 75 psi across the board.

 

I'm going to raceway park tonight 20$ unlimited runs hope I can break 14s like you lol it'd be cool if you came up this way but if your closer to Cecil you gotta b an hour from raceway

 

Well I wanted to post a 4th gear punch showing my stock turbo, manic 2+ .
I found a crack/cut/rip in my stock turbo inlet tube. I'm running M7 AGR intake .
Well I ordered the JCW inlet tube in order to support the Owens that I'm hoping to have in 3-4 weeks.
My MAF seams to be up looking back at some old logs with the factory tube.
Most where 21-23lbs. Now I'm not sure if there was a rip back on those logs but 2-3 weeks ago I changed my go fast bits DV to a stock one as a test. I didn't notice the rip then but was not looking that close for it . Anyway.....
I still think 25lbs is max for the MAF.
Can anyone post a higher MAF log ?
Thanks guys

 

The most I've seen while logging my own as well as customers vehicles (Stage 3+/Stage 4) is 25 lbs/min. If the MAF is disconnected you will read 40 lbs/min. This would lead me to the conclusion that while the system can read that high our MAF's are not designed to provide a signal in excess of 25 lbs/min.

 

For those of you running the Owens Development turbo: Is it a direct bolt-on? Is there work to be done with the recirc valve and/or do you have to convert to a BOV? How much does it cost? I've asked for a quote from OD several times with no response.

 

The turbo is a direct bolt on with no modifications required what so ever. It comes with a new diverter valve. How long has it been since you have not heard from them ? I inquired about what parts I could buy to repair mine if it's ever needed and it was only a day or two and I reviewed a response. When I bought mine it was 1768 English whatever they call its. You gotta do the exchange rate thing. Mine was about 2600 bucks. Is it expensive ? Yes it is. But guess what, I have not have one issue because of a turbo. Not one over boost situation. Motor didn't blow because of lean and an over boost situation arised. Time after time I here people having issues with these other companies because they want a great big turbo. What I've yet to hear or see someone do is look at the turbo graph to see where the boost pressure and horsepower rating falls into play with the design of the turbo. Optimally you want the turbo selected to get max power about in the middle or just to the high end of the graph. All these big turbos people are buying puts them way outside the optimal efficiency range on the high side. Makes no sense to do that. The owens turbo is perfect on the graph.
You want it to fall in the center oval towards the right side or just into the next oval. Here's a compressor map so people know what I mean.
Just my opinion.

 

It was about two weeks ago today, and yesterday I sent them an email again. But ya, couldn't agree with you more on turbo selection. The quickest way to ruin any car is to overpower it. Sure, a dyno-monster is cool for bragging purposes but for a circuit car or just a well built car the key, in my opinion is balance and usable power. Thank you for the flow graph. Just validates my decision to go with OD when it comes time for my engine build/choosing a new turbo. Pricing isn't too much of an issue when it's that reliable. Buy once, cry once.

 

That's just an ordinary graph. That's not the owens. You gotta ask for it. I was just making a point as to were you should be on the graph relative to the horsepower your looking for. And you gotta keep it realistic. What are the cars capable of ? You can get 350 out of them if they are tuned properly and the right head cams and turbo. And other parts of course. Anything at 350 and up, the timer is really gonna have to be standing at the car to tune it. Unfortunately we don't have any tuners who are willing to sell there software so we can get serious with tuning our cars here in the USA. Sure would be nice if a certain tuner would allow that to happen. He's gotten so big now that waiting on tunes is alittle timely. Atleast he responds to emails unlike that CLOWN AT RMW, of course as we heard and seen, he can't tune certain builds because of the way his software is anyway.

 

I'm reading your rebuild posts. Can you share contact info so I can ask some questions directly. I want to rebuild my n14. coach@danraabetraining.com

 

Who else is still waiting for updates from manic for an extended period of time ? I'm thinking its time to write this off and move to a different tuning system and once again for the 3rd time, write off the cost of trying to get my car tuned.

 

If you want someone who is willing to sit in your car and tune it to YOUR parameters and is smart enough to understand the software involved call Jay Bowman from ByteTroniks. He's your guy.
I've personally had him in my car.

 

Just out of curiosity what areas do you believe need attention?