Drivetrain CAI for R56 (home made)
#103
#106
That air intake hose that draws air in from beside the headlight is only effective in the stock scenerio because the engine is drawing ALL of its air through it. The box is fixed with only this inlet to ensure that. Most stock setups are based on drawing air from outside the engine bay for that reason, and given the hot temps in R56 (remember rumor has it that BMW is having trouble with extreme temps with R56 JCW) it seems the way to go. I'll bet that snorkle dynos better than a K&N in the airbox, but that the snorkle will be too hot of a solution for every day, all day, and extreme situations.
Ram air is and always has been a hoax, in so far it doesn't create any pressure into the ram by virtue of its position. It's not the ram effect that aids in power, it's the cool dense charge that saves the day. Fix a car's intake securely without leaks to the outside world (through a hoodscoop or the headlight tube) and you're ensuring cold(er) air. That's a win. Every other scoop when not used in association with a large fan or engine intake is largely inconsequetial...in my opinion. Cone filters always suffer from the problem of having to breathe hot engine bay air, unless you have room to build them a sealed box, that draws in only outside air.
#107
#108
#109
#110
All that stuff is our intake system, our Water/Methonal Injection System, and a few temp probes for measuring charge temps, and engine bay temps. The probes are there to help with proving and developing new parts.
The intake system is going to be shipping in about 3 weeks or so. Price is a little up in the air. But if you call a sales person can back order one, and get you that info!
The intake system is going to be shipping in about 3 weeks or so. Price is a little up in the air. But if you call a sales person can back order one, and get you that info!
#112
If you haven't seen THIS, PLEASE READ HERE. Part way down you can see the intake info.
Yes you are a little wrong (I am saying it in a nice way, so please don't take that the wrong way). We have done lots of testing with temps (notice the probe behind the filter) that the filter sees in that posistion.
First off the turbo heat shield is removed only to show the DP off. It needs to be installed on the car to keep the hot air away. With it removed during a test, the temps were about 80 degrees above ambient.
Secondly there is quite a bit of air flow throught that area of the car with the OEM scoop STILL installed. The temps we measured were not too much warmer than ambient, but they were warmer. The reason for the temps being reasonable is because there isnt much radient heat coming from the back of the motor, it all comes from the front.
Our intake was designed to remove the scoop, this is why the filter is place where it is placed. Also we use the OEM fresh air scoop to get more fresh cool air into the filter area.
So with the scoop removed, the temps were much better (and this was just using the dyno fans which don't represent the air it sees driving down the road) and needless to say they are not much. Also all of our intake tests were with the hood down to ensure as much as a real world result as possible.
The gains we saw by removing the scoop, were not huge but a few HP. Every little bit makes a difference in the end! Because we gained a good amount of HP, we were very happy.
That being said we had a few tricks up our sleeve to make it even better (not tht it would actually make a difference), and we have true cold air box planed. But there is a cost vs function issue that arrises. We didn't want to come out with a $500 intake system that would scare people away. Things like a special scoop for the under side of the hood to blow on the filter was eliminated because of how much cool air is flying around the filter.
I hope that answers your question/concern.
Yes you are a little wrong (I am saying it in a nice way, so please don't take that the wrong way). We have done lots of testing with temps (notice the probe behind the filter) that the filter sees in that posistion.
First off the turbo heat shield is removed only to show the DP off. It needs to be installed on the car to keep the hot air away. With it removed during a test, the temps were about 80 degrees above ambient.
Secondly there is quite a bit of air flow throught that area of the car with the OEM scoop STILL installed. The temps we measured were not too much warmer than ambient, but they were warmer. The reason for the temps being reasonable is because there isnt much radient heat coming from the back of the motor, it all comes from the front.
Our intake was designed to remove the scoop, this is why the filter is place where it is placed. Also we use the OEM fresh air scoop to get more fresh cool air into the filter area.
So with the scoop removed, the temps were much better (and this was just using the dyno fans which don't represent the air it sees driving down the road) and needless to say they are not much. Also all of our intake tests were with the hood down to ensure as much as a real world result as possible.
The gains we saw by removing the scoop, were not huge but a few HP. Every little bit makes a difference in the end! Because we gained a good amount of HP, we were very happy.
That being said we had a few tricks up our sleeve to make it even better (not tht it would actually make a difference), and we have true cold air box planed. But there is a cost vs function issue that arrises. We didn't want to come out with a $500 intake system that would scare people away. Things like a special scoop for the under side of the hood to blow on the filter was eliminated because of how much cool air is flying around the filter.
I hope that answers your question/concern.
#114
#115
This is part of the intake test that we did on the "Wheres the R56 Supercharger pulley go" thread. So yes it gained great power!
INTAKE SYSTEM TESTING BEGINS……….
Our initial test of the intake system was done with the OEM hood scoop left in place. Our intake is designed to remove this, but we wanted to prove how this was a necessary mod. So we did 3 quick runs with the scoop on and 4 quick runs with the scoop off. Below are the runs, with the strange low boost runs removed. The dyno’s runs are redrawn over with a wide brush to show the average of the 2 runs. With no scoop, the filter temps constantly climbed. In 3 quick (10 second interval) runs, the temps were at 150 degrees. With the scoop removed, an instant 30F drop occurred, and a constantly cooling temp change started. The next 3 quick runs showed a nice change in both temp and Wheel HP. The gain was somewhat expected, and the scoop needed to be removed to get the most from the intake system.
Above graph shows averaged runs with and with the scoop being blocked.
So where is the “complete” cold air intake?? The feasibility for a cold air intake is never out of the question, but the cost is the issue here. We wanted to bring the best bang for the buck to the plate first, not scare people away. Since our intake did so well in its form you see here we will continue with developing it this way. Plus we have some things up our sleeves to make it even better.
On a side note, when dealing with MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, small changes to turbulence in the intake system, can make huge changes to how the car runs. Because we are familiar with this problem on other cars, great care was taken to eliminate any turbulence issues that might throw a CEL, or make the car run too lean or rich. We can say for a fact that our intake replicates the stock MAF curve nearly perfectly!
Above graph shows averaged runs with and with the scoop opened up and intake installed!
INTAKE SYSTEM TESTING BEGINS……….
Our initial test of the intake system was done with the OEM hood scoop left in place. Our intake is designed to remove this, but we wanted to prove how this was a necessary mod. So we did 3 quick runs with the scoop on and 4 quick runs with the scoop off. Below are the runs, with the strange low boost runs removed. The dyno’s runs are redrawn over with a wide brush to show the average of the 2 runs. With no scoop, the filter temps constantly climbed. In 3 quick (10 second interval) runs, the temps were at 150 degrees. With the scoop removed, an instant 30F drop occurred, and a constantly cooling temp change started. The next 3 quick runs showed a nice change in both temp and Wheel HP. The gain was somewhat expected, and the scoop needed to be removed to get the most from the intake system.
Above graph shows averaged runs with and with the scoop being blocked.
So where is the “complete” cold air intake?? The feasibility for a cold air intake is never out of the question, but the cost is the issue here. We wanted to bring the best bang for the buck to the plate first, not scare people away. Since our intake did so well in its form you see here we will continue with developing it this way. Plus we have some things up our sleeves to make it even better.
On a side note, when dealing with MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, small changes to turbulence in the intake system, can make huge changes to how the car runs. Because we are familiar with this problem on other cars, great care was taken to eliminate any turbulence issues that might throw a CEL, or make the car run too lean or rich. We can say for a fact that our intake replicates the stock MAF curve nearly perfectly!
Above graph shows averaged runs with and with the scoop opened up and intake installed!
#119
I just did my install!
It was a very easy DIY.
It does sound kinda cool, but as far as performance???
I went to the drag strip today but it was closed because of mother day.
I will go next week to the drag strip and do a couple of runs with the car stock, and then switch it out (takes like 6min), and do some more with the home made intake. That way we will have some performance data, i.e trap, and et's.
I am not a pro driver but I can cut some 1.4 60ft with my other car, so launching this toy should not be a problem. I also figured out how to burn out with this car with the brake on, while your in the water pit. You disconnect the brake fuse, we do this on the 350z's and work on the mini. I'll just have to tell my wife I am taking her cooper to get it detailed.
It was a very easy DIY.
It does sound kinda cool, but as far as performance???
I went to the drag strip today but it was closed because of mother day.
I will go next week to the drag strip and do a couple of runs with the car stock, and then switch it out (takes like 6min), and do some more with the home made intake. That way we will have some performance data, i.e trap, and et's.
I am not a pro driver but I can cut some 1.4 60ft with my other car, so launching this toy should not be a problem. I also figured out how to burn out with this car with the brake on, while your in the water pit. You disconnect the brake fuse, we do this on the 350z's and work on the mini. I'll just have to tell my wife I am taking her cooper to get it detailed.
#122
3rd Gear
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I made an aluminum shroud for mine yesterday and today. I will take temperature notes before and after the install, plus I will take photos.
I have designed it to still use the factory air intake and "our" aftermarket cone filters. I will post what I can asap, but I have a date tonight, so 1st things 1st!!
I have designed it to still use the factory air intake and "our" aftermarket cone filters. I will post what I can asap, but I have a date tonight, so 1st things 1st!!
#124
Looks great!!! very nice work. Did you remove the hood scoop intake? I wonder if you are missing out on some of that fresh air coming in from the front.
Still I'm very impressed with your work
Mario
Still I'm very impressed with your work
Mario
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp