And now may become part of the tariff wars...

Let us know how they work on the track as compared to the others.

 

When I had my sway bars installed I had a knock in the rear that was most noticeable when going slow. The shop that installed them couldn’t figure it out and just handed me the car that way. They said it had to be the poly bushings for the bar or the bar was too big or both. I spent months taking things apart and checking everything, including the end links. I couldn’t find a reason for the knock. Finally, I started replacing things and the first thing I replaced were the end links (used the Way Motors adjustable). Guess what... The knock went away. It appears that the stock MINI end links can’t take the load of a big swaybar and, even though their ends seem tight, they bang/knock inside that ball joint... that would be my bet...

 

I am now pretty sure my knocking is caused by my recent access to the WB O2 sensor to re-calibrate it. I had to remove the cat back to get to under the heat shield. Even though I put it back together as best I could the same there is just enough shifting the reduced the already non-existent space between the left side muffler and the heat shield.

I noticed too that the stock sway bar drop links are pretty much at the limit for the stock front bar. They are just plastic cups that snap onto the steel ball joints. They are adequately retain in place if the force is perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the link as it has no force vector to try force the ball out of the socket. I popped one out as I didn't jack up the both side evenly replacing the outer ball joint. I managed to pop it back into place like a doctor popping someone's dislocated shoulder. I thought to myself, what if the joint decide to let go when I maxed out the Gs already in a corner?

 

I found this video that has a great teardown of the Siglent DSO that I bought. Watching it allow me to catch up with the history of these scopes in the last few years. The best part is competitions between Rigol and Siglent and their similar designs down to the same components, and also how the design withhold higher performance features for sold at higher models or to be waterfalled in a later date to maintain margin. I am impressed with the design and quality inside.


LOL, he demonstrated the piezoelectric effect @15:30.

 

This is one good video in which he torn down a R&S and he went over the components in greater detail. Very interesting to see so much commonalities. And yes, without Yankee technologies these scope would be so much more difficult to design and make. Of course there are specialty components from all over the globe and notably some from Japan.


I think there is a bit too much of halo effect he has on the R&S simply because it is billed as German design and built in their own factory.

And for me the LOLs are how he gushes over the gold plated BNC connectors. It is like CF dash cover, gear ****, and parking brake handle that does nothing useful but to look sporty.

 

Enough side tracking. Back on topic.

Desire is turning into a video queen. I knew from the start the decision to acquire the Solo 2 DL slides down further down the slippery slope. I wanted to stage in the inevitable Smartycam from AiM after first using the data acquisition stand alone a while. It is a rather expensive one at $999 but there is no alternative if you want the overlaid and, most important for used with the Race Studio 3 performance analysis software. I don't mind 720p video resolution and that's what I set the GoPro Herro 5 Black. There are two things that I feel this camera is out of date. One is the 30 fps rather than 60 fps that is more suitable for fast motion sports. The other is the lack of support for an external mic. In time they will release a better refresh design but who knows when?




We decided to get one now rather than wait. Instant gratification is an American value to be envied. We ordered the wider lens option as it is more suitable for covering the driver driving.

 

To decide which lens I should choose for the AiM SmartyCam I refer to the GoPro Hero 5 Black as a point of reference. While the GoPro has many design issues and lack of fixes for them I am very satisfied with the video quality. It has a 4k sensor which is lightyears ahead of the AiM's. However one have to keep in mind AiM is a smaller company who's products breath and depth significantly greater than GoPro so I expect to pay them a lot more for their R&D. Just some fruits for thought from this GoPro FOV information.


We all know that all these compact cameras do not have zoom lenses. So we can safely assume the different FOV setting is just digital crop because it has a 4k image sensor. But the interesting thing is here they actually give different focal lengths for the Wide, Medium, and Narrow FOV so what gives?

I believe the two narrower settings are still digital crop and the camera focal length is not change (i.e. fixed at all times). The difference in focal lengths is done by image processing that corrects for the distortion (fish eye look), or un-distortion of the captured frames to mimic the optical characteristic of a tradition camera different focal lengths. It is possible for GoPro to do this as it has a lot of pixels it can throw away when you use it for the lower resolutions.

For AiM's SmartyCam you have to decide which fixed lens model suit your intended application.

 

Perhaps a prescription for meth injection would help?

:

:

:

Methaqualone can smooth out all the rough edges!

 

No meth or other addictive substance for Desire. I don't want her to later regret all the great things that she could have done while journey into the night.

 

Desire is already on Track Crack; what more do you want?

 

She's gonna to get a quickie this afternoon. Just say no to meth, as Nancy would tell you.

 

Desire got a quickie fix at our home track with TNiA. It was a fully booked event and there were 2 waitlists in our run group. Many late model SC Corvettes and as always Desire was amongst the few low HP cars. There were a lot of track acquaintances and friends.


I worn this free t-shirt from TNiA given in previous event; this night no free t-shirt though



we arrived early and got bounced at the entrance gate so we went shopping nearby; Desire being anti-social as usual in choosing parking spot



we always enjoy seeing the diverse collection of cars, and especially the little cars from the past; the poors rubbing shoulders with the ultra riches







I have now been seeing so many GT3 RS and I cannot help but to think this is justa GT3; and the previous owner of this car upgraded to a GT2 RS; the arms race for some never ends











the enemy devious ploy to confuse us with this Red Baron clone but fortunately we have keen eyes







this 944 race car is very fast; it is preped for endurance races



Desire even played with this R56 Mini from Seattle area















we like real CF applications at where you cannot see; the little on the sills is to invite the conversation of how this car is constructed; thank goodness Alfa didn't plaster the dash with CF






this is a very well sorted Acura with bendy strut tower brace



justa GT3



this 510 wagon pulled away form Desirer like rocket at the straights but we kick his **** in turns; we asked what he's got under the bonnet



it has an engine from Supra and added a turbo












More than ever, this event is one that I really feel that the lack of spring rate is the biggest limitation in being able to go faster in turns. I felt so outgunned when other cars of similar size and weight are running 2x, 3x the spring rates (wheel rates) of mine. The Koni Yellow and Swift Sport springs are excellent combination for a street car that do occasional track days. But it has been a while now that I feel that I have outgrown the spring rates. Using left foot braking to mitigate weight transfer has kept me competitive with this handicap but I now hit a brick wall unless I switch to coilovers that I can increase the spring rates as well as add front camber. That will also mean Desire will likely ride like crap on road. The current combination is very nice if you track occasionally. I have no reservation this combo is one of the best for a R53 DD and occasional track.

 

If you get really good coilovers, they will ride well on the road. I have had experience with AST shocks. Pricey, but worth it. These are also bottom adjustable. Another popular one would be the Ohlins. While I haven’t had experience with them, I have friends with them who like them. Their web page gives spring rates too, which is generally hard to find. These are also bottom adjustable. One thing about the bottom adjustable is that they are an inverted shock design in the front which stiffens the suspension (Bilstien shocks are of this design) and is better than the Koni design.

 

Very cool.

I love the pictures.

2JZ got grunt.






Glad to hear you got 'im in the corners.

Dang,
I love the patina on that MR2 --- as much as I enjoy the exotica like Romeo of Alfa,
something about that humble MR2 beckons heartstring,
love the wheel choice too,
reminds me of old Mini staples,
Revolution:




I liked that the Red Baron R53 had halogen lights,
what else was lurking?

 

I had looked into the coilover offerings from time to time. Ohlins only makes the R&T for R53 and R56 and they seems to be as the name suggests R&T. The US and UK sites are totally stupid and you cannot find spring rates which I remember I seen them before. Much wasted time later found them on the EU site.



I like Ohlins but sadly the spring rate are nearly on par with my Swift Sport springs, but front/rear swapped. I can guess all day long as how well the dampers would cope with much higher springs. Ohlins makes racing CO for other cars but for Mini's you have all your choices as long as R&T.


I infer K&W are crap ride on the road. May be Mr. Blah can chime in with his experience. He evidently is running some serious spring rate with them.

My frenemy Red Baron has the circa $5500 AST and I would guess they have spring rates fit for a Mog. It is very depressing chasing him only to see his car has no lean and I have to keep busy managing weight shift every few seconds.

I also wonder how well the Bilstein PSS10 performs and the ability to use standard diameter Swift springs for coilovers.

I am aware there is BC Racings that Colin Green sells might be a good choice for track only.

Lastly I am concern the need to use spacers which is something that I am not fond of.

 

I run KW v3 with swift 8kg/mm front and 9kg/mm rear, straight springs so there is more tire room than stock, with helpers so they don't have slack at full extension. I think it rides better than my r53 JCW with jcw red springs and koni yellows, but my wife disagrees. The only time I find it too stiff is freeway driving, the cracks between road sections drive me nuts. It took a while to get the damping settings where I like it, I don't touch them anymore! I had to play with rebound in the rear quite a bit to get the tail to stop wagging so bad in heavy braking zones, it is nice being able to adjust compression separately.

If I was buying today, I would try to find another set of V3 used and do it again, or the BC double adjustable that colin can get.

I run extended studs, if I use my 949racing 15x8 6ul I use 10mm spacers up front and 2mm in rear. No spacers when I run my 17" ultraleggera ultrabendy wheels.

 

What diameter and free length Swift springs the KW V3 uses? That is what I prefer to be able to pick and choose the spring rate and use helper springs. I definitely agree when you start playing with spring rates you want dual damping adjustments.

Do you have photos of the built up CO with your setup. I suspect I will need 5mm spacer to clear at front with my 15x8 wheels. The problem with 15" wheel is the tire's widest point tends to align with the CO height adjuster collar.

 

60mm 6" springs I think, I would have to measure. Collin supplied a top hat for the springs that works with his camber plates.

You can kinda see them in this pic, and where my tire rubbed I forgot to put a spacer on lol

 

The only brief exposure to spring I had was hi school physics and were taught coil springs behaves in accordance to Hooke's law - at least in the linear region. I suspect in reality there are a lot more than just an ideal Hooke's law, or not? I have never seen a spring dyno chart. I have always wondered why Swift springs are so highly regarded so I set out for a quickie research. Here is one old thread on NAM.

 

Thanks for the photo. Where the 15" tire rubs is much lower than I expect on the CO tube. I assume the tire is 225?

I take ample photos of everything I do as I constantly find them useful when I need to refer to in a later day. It took me less than 30 seconds to find this photo with 225 and the Koni Yellow, which has a flatten side for more tire clearance. It seems I would be OK with KW without spacer.

 

I am warming up to the likelihood that the front sway bar drop link is the cause of the subtle and elusive light knocks. When it first occur what stood out for me were the sound and symptom just so damn familiar that I had experience it before, but I just couldn't place it. I had crawled under Desire countless time armed with the rubber mallet to look for a loose fastener as well as check the ball joints. After 2 rounds of adjusting the mufflers and removed the rear damper for inspection the knocks are still there, but increased in tendency.

Now I am quite sure it sounds exactly like once when one nut on a sway bar drop link came loose on me and that was the exact same kind of knock in acoustic as well as the every light mechanical shocks. I am sure I even have a post on that episode. However if it is a drop link this time would not be the fastener came loose as I checked and double checked them all already. It has to be cause by a worn or overstressed plastic cup. I will do more investigation today.

 

For me too the gen 1 MR2 is the highlight of all the cars there. It is the owner's first track day as well as the MR2's. Clearly he is on a tight budget but I just love to see younger folks with so much enthusiasm and tenacity. I enquired about his plastic wheel fender flares as they have beautiful big machined AL washers to accommodate the countersink machine screws. It turns out they are just very cheap flares from eBay with his own choice of fasteners and washers. They sure look a million. His car broke down in the last session and had to be towed off the track but I am sure the event was the experience that he was rewarded as he envisioned.

What impressed me about this MR2 is it uses many components form the same parts bins of the lowly Corolla. BTW, have you ever wonder why Corolla never receive any respect, just focus on the spelling or the pronunciation of the name.

I know the driver of this other Red Baron very well. For Desire all Mini's are frenemies as there is only one top hog. This Red Baron must be the evil twin of the Red Baron that Desire duels with at ORP. Two tracks and two equally badass flying aces.

I forgot to mention the R56 owner also has a R53. He brought the R56 as he does not want to track the R53 with just 40k miles. I told hime we savor every track mile we put on but not so much with street mile.


and yes, Desire's pilot has frequent Water Mitty moments

 

So there is indeed a post of the episode the OE sway bar drop link issue that I experienced. The symptom of what I am experiencing now is identical so my memory fails me. Here is the post of the first incidence back in 2017. In that case it was the nut on the drop link worked loose, possibly due to the slippery new powder coated paint of the new bar.

 

It is interesting that the Ohlins for the R53 have much lower spring rates that the the Ohlins for the R56 (400#/in Front/ 343#/in Rear - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ohlins-p...6/bmsmi20~ohl/). I thought they would be the same, which is why I mentioned them. Those would be quite a bit stiffer up front than what you have with the Swift springs. It has not been unheard of to put R56 shocks onto a R53.

As for the Bilstien coilovers, they are a mono tube design like the Ohlins and have the adjusters on the bottom. I don’t know how they would fit with a straight spring.

From friends who have used the BC Racing, those shocks are not about ride, at all.



This is why I went with the big front swaybar along with the big rear sway bar and I am still running the relatively soft MINI sports suspension springs. I believe you have seen the video of my car taken from behind which attests to how flat it corners. I know Mr Blah didn’t like the large front bar and went with much stiffer springs up front to control body roll. But this is an option, admittedly one that would take some effort. From what I remember there are 2 options for front bars - the 27mm one I have and a 26mm one. And remember that the spring rate is the radius to the 4th power (with everything else being the same), so that 1mm difference makes a big difference.

ECS carries TC Kline which, to me, has an interesting match of spring rates. These are 500# front and 229# rear:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-tc-kline...3da500229~tck/

These would perform in your car similar to what I have for roll stiffness. It seems that, with the softer spring in the rear, they are intended to be matched with a big RSB and have a pretty neutral handling characteristic without a strong tendency for a transition to oversteer. One difference from what I have is that, with the stiffer spring up front, there will be less tendency to lower the front on braking which means you won’t get the camber improvement for cornering that I get.

Just some thoughts...

 

Fokking Mini. This is driving me crazy. I put Desire up onto QuickJacks to investigate if a drop link is responsible for the elusive knock. This is what I am greeted with on the left front wheel well again! It seems that the outer CV boot has sprung a leak on this communist made axle . I have been keeping an eye on them and there was no leak after three track days. Now after a PIR quickie it is fok'ed again! The mess it made is major PITA . I have to get my hands all greasy in order to find the puncture on the sh1+ boot.