Sorry my price was based on rationing up the 12oz price to 500 ml.

 

Wow, that is one exhaustive list. I know they are not all created equally but the majors probably has a catalog of different formulations, just like brake friction material. Depends on how often you change your fluid, wet BP may or may not be so important. I don't like buying qty = 6 brake fluid in plastic bottles. They used to come in a tin can and ATE still do. ATE still sell them in 1L container.

When I use the pressure bleeder, I don't pour fluid into it. It is like decanting wine if you do and not a good thing for expensive brake fluid.

 

When you buy them 1 or 2s Wilwood cost nearly at par with Motul 600, so I incline to stick with Motul as the shipping cost is built into the price already. I don't flush the fluid that often as I don't believe in frequent flushing. It is a judgement call how much H2O it absorbs in the reservoir. Only more water is introduced when the level goes up and down as you have new/worn pads.

 

The end is near with this DIY wrap project. Our team's refinisher just completed the two rocker panels that including the air scoops. He is dreading to start on the rear bumper which is the last panel.



the rocket panels are very difficult to install in the garage as the doors must be swung fully open

 

I use a pressure bleeder too, but like you, only for the pressure. To me it seem that if you put brake fluid into it, any residual would absorb water and that water would be going into your brake system the next time you used it. In the spring I will take the HF vacuum hand pump and suck as much fluid out of the reservoir as I can. Then fill it with fresh fluid and bleed the system. I also bleed a bit of fluid out of the bottom of the Wilwoods before I do their tops. After that, I’ll go through a quick bleed before each event.

 

OMG, we think alike.

When I bought the first bottle of Motul I thought to myself I am not going to pour this into the pool of standard issued DOT-4. It is like complaining a cup of bad coffee and have the barista pour in some some good one into the same cup. I use a big syringe to suck out as much old fluid as I could before topping up with the new and bled.

When at the track a few track friends watched and helped me bleed the brakes. One gave me an unopened bottle of Motul. The other proceed to open it and pour into the reservoir and I stopped him and said I would do it. He almost took offense but soon see why I was so insistent. I proceed to use a slotted screwdriver to poke just a small hole on the foil seal at the pouring edge. I explained this is how I avoid making a mess when tip the bottle full of brake fluid to pour. Just small things like this comes with experience and attention.

Speaking of brake bleeding, if you ever had the misfortune of introducing air into the ABS module, INPA has a number of servicing functions to selectively open different valves and activate the ABS pump. I took some screen shots but they are stuck in the twilight zone between Windows and Mac OS.

 

Shoes, shoes, and still more shoes. That is Desire. May be these should be called replacement soles.

The prefetch pipeline supply just added a set of Toyo RR. Our purchasing manager always manages to find bargains and the track team appreciates it. Very hard to go wrong with 15% saving on Toyo slicks.




Quantity is very limited for this 225/45 15.

 

Not quite alike, I poke 2 holes in the foil seal, 180 deg apart. One to let air in; one to let fluid out.

Interesting that my new JCW has no access to the brake fluid reservoir. It is buried under panels that have to be unbolted, disassembled and removed.

 

Don't ever think I didn't consider poking two holes. I always consider all options and pick the best . It is unnecessary for the few tens of ml that is brake fluid. Also as you tip a full container of fluid, the second hole tends to not function as vacuum relief but another pour hole . But you sure want the vacuum relief when you pouring from a 5 gallon EPA-unapproved racing liquid container . Don't even get me started with all these EPA approved fuel containers that has no relevance to reality let alone common sense, designed by some ignorant bureaucrats and approved by clueless committee. More fuel (not ink as most nowadays can't write a complete sentence) has been spilled by these specs designed and reviewed by these morons, in the name of preventing VOC from getting into the atmosphere.

Remember in the old days some brake fluid reservoir has a rubber gaskets that keep the air out as the level drops. No more as people are too ignorant to understand why it was there. Ignorance of the masses always wins.

 

I just spotted this. That is the hi temp silicone hose that I need for the brake ducts.



I need one more though . It is crash-proof as tested, and not your average cut to length McMaster Carr ones.

 

Here is one Mk I in action (starting 2:08), and a glorious Alpine A110 at 2:58:

 

That Ford shows up several times in that video. Nice looking car. Ford in Europe did some really great cars, but they never came here. The Capri was the best we got.

I am amazed at the number people watch the racing were in the spot where a car will crash if it is going to crash...
This is almost as good as seeing the old films of the people standing at the edge of the Le Mans race track back in the ‘50s with the cars going by them at 150+ mph.

 

There are like 3 Mk I Escorts there. The white one might appeared twice. I always enjoy watch the Simca with their carzy amount of rear cambers and tiny wheels.

In addition to the Capri US imported Mk III Cortina, but it is a bit big. I had mixed feeling about Capri's. I had a Mk II and a Mk III. They are a bit long and don't handle that well. The narrow V6s are quite dated. The other merchandizing accident of Ford US import is the Merkur XR4ti. It didn't sell too well, but has to be one of the high performance Ford with all the right boxes checked. There are many in the video.

 

Yes, I remember the Cortina!
I knew someone in college that had one! He really liked it.

And I remember the Merkur. Terrible marketing on that one and an odd looking car for the US market.

 

Great video!

I much enjoyed seeing the diversity of cars in it and was very surprised to see a Shelby Daytona coupe!

I used to devour UK car mags and still have piles and piles of them, so I'm familiar with most the forbidden fruit that we never got. Back before the internet that's all we had if you were interested in such stuff. I don't buy magazines as much as I used to, but I still do get a few.

Mk1 Escort has always been a dream for me,
I absolutely love them.

I'd love to find a nice RS 2000 in left hand drive,
maybe somewhere like the Netherlands:
https://www.classicargarage.com/arch...000-rally-1973

...and ring up Orchid and have them import it,
they make everything hassle free and have very good reviews.
https://orchideuro.com/index.php?main_page=carimport

But those mk1's are getting expensive these days, just like everything else.

After white,
my 2nd favorite colour scheme is this:



And although the car in the video below is one of my least favourite colours,
it's still great fun to watch!

Quality film footage with some unusual angles too.

 

There is still time to bid on this Mog. Ends in less than an hour.

The seller posted a video. Mommy, can we get that little truck?


I have to say it is so cuddly that any boy would want one.

 

Back when I was a teenager, my best friend's neighbor had a Lotus Cortina.
It was stunning.

It was always parked in the street because the neighborhood was all midcentury ranch houses with no garage and very steep driveways.

Wonder how many of those got imported to USA?

Worth a pretty penny nowadays:
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...cortina-mk1-2/

.

 

I still have my old Matchbox version!



Of all the cars on BaT at the moment,
I most desire the 510.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-510-26/

 

And it is only $10K more than I paid to get my JCW...
I remember when the 510 w/ their 1600cc engine was romping the snot out of 2002s in the 2L T/A races.

 

Yep!

This is a pretty groovy doc...

 

Be prepare to pay the cost of a new Porsche for a nice specimen. That is how much they are worth now. You would not want to see the body before they restore them in most cases. As a boy the special racing Escort was my dream car besides 1275 Cooper S. I walked by this all white Lotus Twin Cam Escort park outside this apartment almost daily and it was gorgeous with one big racing strip. It said Twin Cam so must be the Lotus 1600 engine and had the same bubble wheel flares. A year would gone by and one day after a hurricane on my way home the car was at the same usual spot. A giant neon sign had landed dead square on it. It is the most tragic sight. I like this car in all creamy white.

The worst color for has to the metallic brown and it was quite a popular color in the era.

 

Today the idea came to me that I can play with the hybrid module of the failed TMAP sensor. May be in the process I can find the cause of failure even without a high power microscope.

Despite I chipped the ceramic substrate while removing it from the transducer plastic housing the circuit on the substrate is intact enough that I can access all the node that corresponding to the external pins of the manifold absolute pressure sensor. The T function is just a simple thermistor and it does not even enter the hybrid.

When I conducted the tests with this transducer in situ I confirmed the failure was intermittent.


the first step is to carefully determine the pin-out and the orientation of the hybrid



next I map the connections to the opposite side of the hybrid where I can observe and access the piezoelectric sensor and the ASIC



I have the three connections wired up with flying leads - +5V, GND, and pressure output; the red arrow is the ASIC die with 7 gold bonding wires all potted in a glob of RTV silicone; right of it is the piezo element cover also in RTV silicone but much softer jello like density

I use a lab power supply to provide it the 5Vdc. I monitor the current as I powered it up. There were no current being drawn. I carefully check all the connections at the mini test clips as well as at the solder joints on the hybrid and all seemed well. I also monitor the pressure output of the hybrid with a DMM and it registered nothing (no DC voltage). I thought it is likely in the stuck at fail condition. I decided to apply light pressure on the silicone of the ASIC thinking that may be one of the 7 bond wires is severed. While I could see through the translucent silicone I could not see if the welded joints are intact.

I thought it is a good chance a light pressure on the silicone potting can force it to make contact so I pressed lightly while keeping an eye on the DMM. Sure enough I read between 1 and 2 volts as I pressed on it. I tried to capture all this in a video with the iPhone. Alas I could only do this a couple of times. As soon as I tried to find out where and at what angle and pressure I could see the voltage on the DMM it ceased to output anything. It does not take much to damage the microscopic gold bonding wires on a bare die and putting pressure onto the silicon potting proved to be too much.

While setting out to play with it, I was hoping to be able to apply pressure on the jello-like silicone of the piezoelectric sensor and see the corresponding voltage changing at the output. Unfortunately the module happen to be stuck at the failed state. What this exercise told me is the TMAP sensor begun to fail at the track. The intermittent failure was not frequent initially but soon became quite ready - likely aggravated by the vibration of the engine. It is very likely the failure is at one of the 7 gold bonding wires that connects the ASIC die to the ceramic substrate.

For the brief moment when I observed the pressure output voltage, the power supply current meter showed about 3 mA of current draw, which is a reasonable number for an IC of this complexity in the era (circa year 2000).

While I am on the subject of the MAP and TMAP sensors, on R53/52 the TMAP is more critical over the MAP. The former is the one the ECU relies on to measure the manifold pressure which includes the compressed air pressure done by the SC. It exposes a greater dynamic range and transients. The latter measures the atmospheric pressure which tends to be more static (most of us live in near 1 atmosphere plus or minor a bit). However the ECU relies on measurements from both sensors to calculate the instantaneous air mass in order to determine the fuel rate.

The ASIC is to ensure every sensor provides a linear and accurate transfer function through out the intended temperature operation range. The temperature sensor on these devices (on both TMAP and MAP) just come alone for the ride. Its connection does not enter the hybrid but just a part of the packaging.

 

I too looked at the 510 and it seems to be very well restored. It is one of the cars that had grew on me over the years. It started as a poor man's BMW 2002 but now it is more desirable than its German counterpart.

 

Your Ford shows up in the Watkins Glen race portion of this video at about 14:50

There are some definite styling cues from the Ford and 2002 in the style of the 510...

 

I am only half way through the video. It is a great documentary on the 510.

I only just discovered Silodrome and it has many great articles on the whole history of some significant models. No in your face animations like on Jalopnik. There is this very comprehensive one on the history Skyline which subsequently became GT-R and with some relationship to the engines in the 510. Datsun created so many historically significant cars. I like the old name over the current one. Often corporations change their name/branding for very stupid and shortsighted reasons. The worst are to please the dumb and ignorant that cannot look past their own country.

from a humble beginning



There is this equally excellent but much shorter article on the history of Triumph Splitfire if you eyes glaze over seeing a few thousand words well written article .