You can also try rotating the flow sensor on the FAV.

 

Do you mean the wire for the flow sensor, or the wire for the gauge? The wire for the gauge shouldnt go past the battery terminals.

I have tried rotating the flow sensor. I even put the wire for the flow sensor inside of a wire loom and away from other wires.

 

Does it still do it if the flow sensor is unclipped from the FAV?

If so then it is a noise issue. If not then it could be something else.

 

Flow sensor wire

 

Hello

Everybody~

Which one can tech me how to setting PI-R is correct?

Thanks

 

The PI-R adjust methanol/water flow relative to boost pressure and/or fuel injector duty cycle (IDC). I'd imagine that most people leave it at the default 12 o'clock position where it's 50% boost and 50% IDC (where fully counterclockwise is 100% boost).

I believe that the whole idea behind basing on both boost and IDC is to prevent over-injecting when you don't need it, i.e. when boost is high but the car is still in the middle rpm range.

The optimum setting would be slight different for each car (different mods/tune, etc.). The only way to really know is to tweak the dial and datalog and repeat until you're happy. If you want to try something, try turning it slightly counterclockwise toward the boost bias.

FWIW, some methanol/water injection kits are based solely on boost pressure and don't have the ability to monitor IDC.

 

Finally getting around to installing my new
HFS-3, UPS delivered my Vent gauge.

mQuebed Manic Tuning Dealer

 

I did the same thing with my gauge. At the time I had to wait for a while due to the pods being out of stock for a bit. The supplied wiring is just long enough to make it from the gauge to the control box.

 

Howerton sells a black bezel for the gauge if you are interested.

 

I saw that on their site. I was planning on polishing the inside and painting the outside of the bezel. If I get around to it and get the dremel out. It not matching doesn't bother me as much as I thought it would.

 

Was looking at this forum again and was wondering , some of you guys talked about moving the location around for the jet. Has anyone come up with a yay or nay on location. I was thinking more towards the radiator myself ???
I have had the kit mounted and ready to test for over 6 mths but have not had the time to set it up since I'm out of town for work.
I might get a 2 week window the end of the month and was going to finish the install.
Any advice on what you have found would be helpful....

 

Install the injector before the MAP sensor on the hard pipes coming from the intercooler.

 

Dang, 6 months!! You deserve a trophy or something!


Seriously, you basically have three options:

1.) Install in the bend of the hard pipe next to the dipstick.

Pros: Easy to install and easy to service.

Cons: ??


2.) Install in the same hard pipe but as close as you can get to the intercooler.

Pros: Give more time for charge air cooling effects for tunes that factor in IAT. For the Manic tune the placement before or after the T-MAP does not matter (from what I've read).

Cons: Harder to install and harder to service.

3.) Install in the intake manifold or intake manifold spacer such as the Koala from Cravenspeed.

Pros: More even injection into each cylinder.

Cons: More complicated installation with more parts. People are working on a setup like this but I'm not sure if anyone has actually completed and tested it.

 

Show here on the left.

 

I ended up moving mine down the line closer to the FMIC. It was recommended by Jeff due to the higher temps the sensor was reading when it was closer to the intake temp sensor. I seem to be an isolated case but I do have a bigger turbo pushing more air. Moving it down the line helped me reduce the temps by 10deg plus or minus. You can see in the pic where the old jet location was. There is a plug in place now.

 

Thanks guys , Sorry for late response. I was thinking a little further towards the FMIC like Cpap. I have a 45 JMC turbo sitting in the garage waiting to get installed. Thanks for the heads up needing it to move with a bigger turbo Cpap

cerenkov - I don't think a trophy is in order , I think a new job with more time off is in order...lol I'm taking a month off in April when this job is over so I can fine tune my mini..!!

thanks again guys

 

Anyone see this story:

http://carbuzz.com/news/2015/2/15/BM...ooler-7725447/

 

I have been running 100% M1 meth for a while now. Anyone running a good mix of water meth?

 

I run 100% meth and still get 5-12 degrees below ambient at 26psi. It's an old idea, that is finally gaining main stream traction

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

I've been running a 50 - 50 mix with VP's M1 for about 2 years. I need cooling, not more power.

 

Same mix same amount of time. I notice when I pulled my spark plugs I still had a little brown carbon buildup on the top of the pistons. I'm going to try a 60/40 W/M and see what happens.

Valves have never been cleaned idles and runs like a dream at 138k km's. Best fuel economy I've seen 6.1 ltrs per 100km(sorry too lazy to convert to miles and gallons).

 

Kind of off topic but I have an Aquamist HF3 for my 2012 MCS. I noticed the low meth warning coming on under acceleration but the tank is nearly full. Anyone else experience this? Sorry I'm a meth noob.

 

Is the LED above the water level LED coming on also?

 

No, the w.injection light stays off

 

The lower light should only come on by itself during a low water level event. It will first be intermittent and will stay solid if the condition remains for greater than 20 seconds. (Mine starts coming on at about 1/4 full). Since it happens during acceleration as you'd expect if the level is actually low (but yours is full) makes you wonder if yours is defective or maybe the level sensor needs adjusting.

I'd contact Jeff at Howerton (if you purchased it from him) or Richard at Aquamist maybe they can tell you how to adjust the sensor.