In San Lorezno? Do you have to call and have it ordered, or did they have a retail store you can stop at? There's not much info on their web page.

 

Haven't been there but they said I can just bring a gas can and fill it up there.
Or buy a gas can from them and fill one up.

 

Does anyone have IA sound system / subwoofer with the meth tank in the boot?

 

I have the HFS-4 with mini tank, but not the IA setup however from their pictures it looks like there's enough room! (post from the "Thoughts on Integral Audio Soundstage ..." thread)

 

Thanks red. Yes there is enough room. I was wondering how the cover was cut. The speaker "cover" should be far enough or else it will cause annoying rattles from the tank hitting it. I've been wanting to upgrade my speakers

 

You guys happen to know what engine codes might be thrown if the failsafe is tripped and puts car in limp mode ?
Over the winter we upgraded our system to the hfs4 (added gauge and failsafe) and now that its spring and I have the car out to play it goes into limp mode when I get into boost. Not saying this is related to the meth system at all but just trying to figure out my issue. I replaced my pressure converter today but it didn't change anything. The codes I get are 2789 and 2ca3 - I don't get a cel - just the half engine light. And once I restart car it's all good until I get up into boost again.

Thanks for any help

 

More than likely it is something with the install that is causing the error. A few things:

1.) Make sure that the correct waste gate wire on the ECU connector was spliced. People have been known cut and splice the wrong wire. Actually count the pins on the connector. It should be pin #7. Verify the other connection too.

2.) Verify that the jumpers on the board are set correctly.

3.) Try moving the jumper to DFS. This should disable the failsafes. See if you still get the boost cut.

4.) Try reconnecting the waste gate wire to see if you still have the problem.

Did you get the HFS4 from Howerton? I wondering if the proper links on the control board have been soldered or de-linked.

 

Ok great ideas - I will try them tomorrow. Yes I had to send the control unit to Jeff for mods when we did the upgrade.

Thanks for your advice

 

Can you be more specific on the "move jumper to dfs" please? I want to try this tonite. It won't hurt it to take a test drive with this jumper on ??
Here's a pic of my board.
Thank you again

 

It's hard to tell from the angle of the picture but are all the jumpers on the locations with the gold dots? (those dots are the factory default locations).

I would move the jumper from FS0 to DFS. Or you could just put the jumper from PRK on DFS. Either one should work.

I'm not sure if your manic tune requires meth but you can always switch to the stock MAP, that way there are no worries.

 

Correction, move the jumper from DHB to DFS for testing.

 

Did you setup your WL and WH flow window on the gauge? The "B" should be lit when your inside of the flow window. If it is not then you are outside of the flow window and the fail-safe will activate. It thinks that there is flow obstruction or whatnot.

When the DFS is jumped the "B" should always be lit.

If you haven't setup up the flow window then for testing purposes you can turn the WL all the way counter-clockwise and WH all the way clockwise. This will make the window as large as possible.

 

Thank you Cerenkov you fixed everything - my gauge was never setup !!

 

Curious how anyone with a manic tune has changed their meth set-up as a result of the tune? Either settings, or jet?

 

I increased from 0.6mm jet to 0.8mm jet after the Manic tune. BUT, I did this because I thought it was a good idea, not because I had any kind of data telling me that I should.

I figured that I running the car harder why not give it a little bit more candy.

 

Well I went to calibrate gauge and all today and now I know why I had the bad method smell in cabin. Meth is not going past fav so it was squirting out of fav and down into my cabin filter !!!
It looks to be assembled like the ones in you guys' pictures though. I am including a pic so you can tell me what might be wrong. Fyi the meth is pouring out around then area where black plastic clip on piece is.

Thank you for all the help

 

Pull off the black clip. This is the flow sensor. You don't need that connected to try and find the leak. This might be obvious but the meth line is disconnected?

 

The FAV can unscrew into a few pieces. I'd remove the FAV, so that you can work on it easier. Then take it apart and check to make sure that all the orings are seated properly and not pinched. When you take it apart make note if the pieces are loose or tight. If loose then this could have been the problem. Make sure that the flow restrictor, if installed, is facing the correct way. There is a picture in the manual. There is a tool in the kit to make it easier to remove the restrictor. When you put the FAV back together the pieces should be tight but not over tight. It is suggested NOT to use wrenches.

Reinstall. Make sure the the tubes are pushed all the way on and the knurled compression nuts are good and tight. It could have been leaking from here.

Once everything is back together. Remove the jet and place into a 2 liter bottle. Then put the system into "SYS" mode. This will spray at full flow. Check for leaks. It's best to have a set of helping hands for this.

It might not be a bad idea to place a tissue underneath the FAV, it's easier to tell if it's leaking if the tissue is wet.

 

Ok will do tomorrow. Wander if the fav is bad now since its been running without the meth going through it ??
Is there a way I can bypass the system til tomorrow so that the meth won't keep spraying into my battery box area and yet not have the car go into limp mode from the failsafe?

 

You can

1.) switch to the stock map and turn off the gauge.

or

2.) just stay out of the boost (I know it's hard).

 

what a helpful community and I'm glad to be a part of it. Cerenkov has helped me with my mini in general. that guy is a guru..


btw, I got sick of my velcroed (under the cabin filter) meth controller keeps falling and last week I decided to put it inside the glove compartment. I got everything that I needed like a boy scout lol. Rubber grommet, hole saw, and wire loom but today, I "accidentally" realized the rectangular plastic piece inside the compartment easily pops off..

I ran the wire through there and it works perfect. No drilled holes!

I must say it's a HELLO?! moment for me.

 

When I turn gauge off it automatically puts me into limp mode. So I just tried to stay out of boost for the night !!

Ok I took the fav out and I can blow through both parts that screw into it for each side but cannot blow whatsoever through the valve itself. But then again I not sure if I should be able to ( maybe it only allows passage when it's signalled to do so ??) I've inlcuded a picture to verfiy what Im referring to and also so you can see what I have and make sure I'm not missing something. I put a piece of yellow tape on the piece that I cannot blow through.

Many Thanks as usual !!

 

You shouldn't be able to blow through the valve itself. It's normally closed when there is no signal to open it.

Put it back together, making sure that the o-rings are properly seated. If you want to use a wrench to snug up the pieces that's fine but DO NOT over tighten. Just use your thumb and one finger on the wrench. The o-ring makes the seal.

Install back in the car and reattach the lines. Make sure that the poly/nylon tube is fully seated on the barb fitting then tighten the compression nut. Feel free to use a channel locks on the compression nut but again don't go crazy.

Then test it. If it is still leaking then try tightening the pieces a little more (while it is installed on the car). If it is still leaking after that, then I'd say it's defective and needs to be replaced and I'd call Howerton.

 

mp5999 , I put my system in but did not have time to flow test etc and I was in the same boat as you. "Limp mode" with system off.
The bad part about using the fail safe over boost is that it is a normally open contact (N.O) , when the system gets power it closes that contact and you run fine and don't have an issue. If you hit high boost it opens and saves you.....

Well I ended up taking that part out and hooking my wires back up due to the fact that if the controller fails you will be stuck in limp mode.

just my .02

 

Putting the jumper on DFS should bypass the failsafes.