You might have to register to access the forum. But here's a link to a collection of technical papers about methanol/water injection.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...splay.php?f=53

another:

http://www.autofuelstc.com/ADI.pdf

 

Thanks. I'll def read these through. I wonder why bmw turbo engine didnt run it. Will be interesting to know.

Do any of the articles prove that below ambient temp can actually be achieved by a small amount of methanol being injected?

I've downloaded the pdf and reading now.

Regards,
Steven

 

Can someone give me an idea the difficulty level it is installing an Aquamist HFS-4 kit? Just a little background my hobby is building water cooled computers from scratch, I'm no stranger to long installation times.

Regards, Systemlord.

 

I'm color blind and had no real issues. My install took longer then anticipated just because I could only do a little at a time because I was working out on the road and couldn't make up my mind about materials. I didn't want to use split loom and I couldn't decide on where I wanted the gauge. I did pull my intake tube to tap it. Some did while it was still on the car. I didn't want to risk it, it's plastic and in a little bit of an odd place. I also had some cross talk to the FAV sensor wires. I just routed them up and around the front of the battery box, away from the battery pos and neg. Hope this helps some. None of it was to difficult.

 

It not difficult at all and other than the drill bit and tap you'll only need a basic set of tools. Working in a garage/carport is helpful.

The kit comes with step by step instructions with photos, so if you can follow instructions you'll be fine.

Plan on 1 weekend to do the installation.

 

Well it sounds easy enough probably just time consuming. Could someone show me a picture of the wires going to the ECU? I just need a picture in my head to get an idea of what it may look like once installed. I'm going to read from page 1.

Much appreciated.

Systemlord

 

Here's some photos of the DME taps

 

Water cooled computers --- sounds like a lot of fun. Can I place an order for a lap-top unit? LOL I gave up on keeping up with technology when I retired.

As already stated --- it's not a difficult install. Time consuming if you want a clean / neat job done. Plan on some time under the car routing wires from the back to the engine compartment. Check my "garage" for a photo of the control unit in my glove box. This took some added drilling, but it's concealed pretty well by the glove box door.

Wires at the ECU connectors, as posted by cerenkov, can be routed next to the OEM harness, and not noticeable after putting the cover back on. Wire routing was easier for me by removing the battery completely, to expose some OEM harness "pass-throughs" in the firewalls.

Biggest problem I had was selecting the nozzle size. Working with my tuner helped a lot. A good tune, remote or dyno, will make a WMI system install that much more effective --- improved timing settings and probably more.

And, use only the purest meth you can find. The FAV is really sensitive to impurities. I'm using VP Racing M1 in a 5 gallon can. Pricey, but good!

 

What nozzle did you end up using?

mQuebed Manic Tuning Dealer

 

My memory is shot, but emails from Jun 2012, when I set it up, indicate I used the largest one in the kit, probably a 0.9mm with a 0.9 restrictor. Without a disassembly and inspection, I can't say for sure. Considering mods installed, WM ratio used, and elevation in Northern NV, you shouldn't pay any attention to what I'm using. The main factor was the datalog STFT reading --- trying to get 0.85%, which between Howerton and Perrin, is an "arguable target" --- my interpretation of their inputs.

We all have different goals, mods, and equipment conditions. What works for me is possibly a terrible setup for someone else. As I've been saying in other threads, work with your tuner!

 

What is the number of wires going to the 1st and 3rd ECU harness? Are those red wire joiners included in the meth kit? Also I never thought to ask about our smog inspections, are the inspectors going to fail us (CA) for the meth injectors that connect to the charge pipe in the engine bay? The picture makes it look easy.

 

On the first ECU connector there is:

1.) MAP Sensor
2.) Fuel Rail Pressure
3.) Injector +
4.) Injector -
5.) Wastegate failsafe (optional)

On the third ECU connector there is:

1.) +12 power

The red things are positaps and are included in the kit. Eventually I'd like to solder the splices but like oldbrokenwind said they are completely hidden when the ECU cover is installed.

As far as failing you for the jet installation, that it something that can be easily removed (2 minutes without tools) and tucked away then quickly reinstalled if you think that it could be an issue. The kit comes with a fitting to plug the jet hole for this reason.

 

That would be assuming the inspectors knew it was an injector for a meth system and not, say, a temperature sensor.

 

Very clever, would an inspector have any reason to pull off the cover to the ECU?

 

Just got my Aquamist kit. Going to start the install. Just curious how you guys are getting the plastic intercooler pipe out? It seems like its going to hit the valve cover trying to slide it out. I have read some of you guys are tapping it in the car but i would like to remove it and do it. Also has anyone put the jet in the intercooler horn at all? Jeff had mentioned that when I talked to him and wasnt sure if anyone tried it or not.

 

Most people tap the tube (close to where the dipstick is) when it's on the car because it's a PITA to remove it. What you can do is disconnect it from the intercooler (you should do this no matter), loosen the connection on the other end and rotate it up to tap it closer to the intercooler to provide more time to cool the intake charge.

If you're worried about drilling the hole while it's on the car, a stepped bit works really well. Just don't drill the hole too large.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_27992-281-10...bit&facetInfo=

I'm not sure what you mean by intercooler horn, that term is generally used when referring to the R53.

How's the Owen's turbo working out?

Only the Lowe's hyperlink is mine the others are NOT - I think it is something NAM is doing.

 

Yes I had seen people tapping it on the car and then just blowing it out with air. I would rather take it off and make sure there is nothing left in the pipe after drilling.

With the intercooler horn what I meant was the end tank on an aftermarket FMIC. Jeff had mentioned putting it there to give the charge more time to cool.

The turbo is awesome! Nick and I are doing lots of logs and trying to perfect the tune at the moment. After the aquamist kit is up and running we will be getting a tune dialed in for that also. Eurotechs is having a dyno day down here in AZ at the beginning of December so should have some numbers then.

 

I wouldn't be too worried if you didn't get 100% of the plastic chips out, they'll burn up when they get sucked into the engine but putting it on the end of the intercooler would be easy.

 

This is what I did. Wasn't bad at all. I do have a CM though. For me, there was a noticeable difference in IAT's between the two locations. The IAT's were lower with the jet closer to the IC.

 

I use HFS-4V2 I use MAP3,1.0 jet,0.7 restrictor working now,I 1min I get 375cc
But I want get 1min 500cc ,How can I do it?
please teach me

Thanks

 

Get rid of the restrictor. They are known to clog anyway.

 

According to the chart in the manual the 1.0 mm jet will not get you 500 cc/mm but it should get you 450 cc/min. You might have to go to a 1.2 mm jet. Like wzabrouski said you'll need to ditch the restrictor.

If you remove the restrictor let us know your new flow rate.

 

I try it !

But get 350cc on sc 70% I use Aquamist Check Valve Jet!

I try other, have not Check Valve Jet, I can get 400CC

So ~

How can I do?

 

Seems like I am another victim to the bouncing flow level on the flow gauge. Did the following.

1. Put the system in SYS mode with hose and jet in a gallon jug. While the system was flowing 100% in SYS mode I adjusted the SC on the flow gauge to so the gauge showed 6 bars just like the instructions say.

2. Took system out of SYS mode and drove around with jet on the windsheild. Spray comes on at about 8 - 9psi. When under full load and full boost the gauge jumps around between 6,7, and 8 bars on the flow meter.

I routed the flow sensor wire by itself and away from other wires. I dont get any line noise at idle either on the flow sensor. Not sure what the deal is. I bought my kit directly from Howerton.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

I had the same thing also. My gauge wire was really close to the negative battery connection. Mini's also have notoriously noisy wires. You should be able to find a spot where you don't get any interference.