correct, but if the box or wiring was to fail ( circuit board toast etc) you will have an open circuit. I know the chance is probably low but you don't know my luck....lolol

 

Joining the ranks of "meth-head." Subscribing to this thread so I'm in the know

 

Does anyone know what type of connectors are used for the Gauge, ECU, & Trunk cables connecting to the control box? They look like rj45 or similar, but I know at least the Trunk cable is smaller. I bought the kit second had and a few of the tabs are broken

I was hoping to pick up something like this to fix them

 

So nothing new from anyone?

 

You're right there is a smaller one. You should be able to count the number of possible contacts (some might be empty). They will be either 4 (RJ9) ,6 (RJ11) or 8 (RJ45).

 

6 slots with 4 pin is RJ11, 6 slot with 6 pin is RJ12

 

Hey guys, there's another group buy going on. Pm me for details.

 

Down and dirty LED light hook up

 

Resurrecting this thread from the dead as I’m joining the select group. I’ve been reading the full thread and I’m a little confused about the statements about the cooling effects of water/met mixes. Most of them say one mix cools more than the other mix, but what I see is been taken as a reference for this is the IATs. What I understand is what should be considered is the mix once inside the cylinder. So the more water the mix has, the more heat it takes. I wonder if then the EGT´s should be considered to see what mix is best, rather than IATs – from a cooling perspective-.

 

Correct. Watching your IAT is just showing you that the meth is spraying in my eyes. It's a wet bulb at that point.
I spray 100% meth for a octane boost due to my tune so I don't really have a dog in this fight.
If your wanting to spray for means of keeping the valves clean then you can play around with mixing different ratios.
I have a post turbo egt gauge on my car, not sure if that would be fair to use since the turbo is hot. Pre turbo egt would give a better reading

 

Yeah, the guage pre turbo for EGT will be somehow more representative of the cooling properties of the w/m combo, as the gases loose heat when they go through the turbo.

 

Well I noticed my system wasn't working, checked and noticed the pump was not kicking on. If I put power straight to pump it works fine. So I jumper the PRK to SYS, then put power to pump kicks on and system works fine and flows as usual. So figuring it was the relay I put a new one from Howerton in today but still have the same results. I see on the website that Jeff is closed until after 4th of July, any one have any ideas here?

Thanks guys

 

Try Aquamist. They build the system, should be able to help.

 

When you put the jumper to SYS do you hear the FAV clicking. I had the same problem as you replaced the relay and fixed it however a short time later the pump kept running even after the car was turned off turned out the new relay was sticking maybe there's a bad batch of replacement relays being sent out.

Lucky for me it only happened twice and has been fine since. Emailing Richard about the problem turned out to be a waste of time his final response was because it was an intermittent problem he could help and his final words were "I have to end this dialogue". Not maybe I've sent you a dodgy relay.

 

Ouch ..... He has to end the dialogue. Man that's a slap huh. Makes me wonder now .......

 

I need some direction and maybe a translator. I have a Howerton HSF4 kit for my R56 and after being an idiot and damaging the original controller I had a replacement sent directly from Aquamist. I compared the 2 controllers and changed the IDC pre-scaler jumper to x2.50 for DI engines but was not getting the low fail safe WL pot adjusted per the instructions here. I could only see 1 bar of flow at about 6000 RPM. After emailing Jeff I found I need to solder the 1-2 tabs of the flow sensor on the back of the controller. After doing this I saw no change. Emailed Jeff again and his response is below. Can anyone translate? What exactly do I need to adjust? All the pot settings are at the 12 o'clock setting. The jet is spraying per spec. Which way do I need to adjust the thres? Does this control at what boost PSI the spray comes on? Should I make a change to the gain or P/I-R? Not really sure how to proceed and don't want to muck it up.

Me:
I have soldered the 1-2 connection as specified in the manual but I see no change. Could it be anything else?

Jeff:
Put the jet in a container and make sure it's spraying per spec.
Adjust the thres to the right cut in point.
Some trigger on MPS and spray at 3-5psi.
That should be it.

 

Don't be afraid to "muck it up". Once you're convinced the connections are correct, try adjusting things just a little bit, maybe 1 hour intervals, and one at a time. If the results aren't to your liking, adjust it the other direction. Do this with threshold, gain and P/I-R. Eventually, you'll learn how each control affects your system. It's very difficult to "muck things up" as you can always return pots to 12 o'clock.

I can't help with fail-safe as I didn't connect mine.

 

You were right. After dialing the threshold down to about 9 o'clock everything seems to be working as expected. The spray comes on about 9 PSI and quickly ramps to 5 bars with a .8mm jet. I may need to readjust the sensor calibration to show a full 6 bars at full spray. I will drive it a few days and monitor. Thanks.

 

So what restrictor and injector is everyone using? Im tuned for meth and I dont want to inject less than I should

 

Talk with your tuner --- he should be able to recommend the proper setup for you. I started with a 50 - 50 WMI mix, and restrictor / injector combo chosen from the installation instructions. Ran fine 'til the Manic tune. He changed it to an 80 - 20 mix and changed the injector to the "black" one (don't remember the size, just the color ID) --- same restrictor (if I used one at all --- its been 3 - 4 years). Awesome results --- no comparison to my last AP custom tune! I don't recommend you copy anyone else's setup --- do what's best for you and yours, per your tuner. That's one reason there were options included in the kit.

 

Just make sure you measure the amount your spraying for a minute and confirm with your tuner that your spraying enough.(im spraying 400cc per min through a .8 jet) Then you can talk about the mix with him .

 

I remember I can do something to force the pump to spray meth, but do I have to open the ECU?

 

You need to open the controller and move the jumper from PRK to SYS. This will give full spray.

Obviously never do this when the jet is installed in the car.

 

Ahhhh perfect. And thats the flow I have to measure for the 500 - I think- Manic told me was recommended for map C

 

The 1.0mm nozzle will flow 500cc. I installed mine without the restrictor and recorded 538cc. Subtract your boost pressure from the 160 psi line on Jeff's flow diagram here to get actual flow.

http://howertonengineering.com/calculating-jetting/

For tunes where map C requires meth you will find map B also operates well with it. Map A tends to bog a bit however with this amount meth. Ditto on what ridinDirty said. Ensure your getting the correct flow thru the system.
Even great products that are well made occasionally leave the factory with flaws so... "Trust but verify"