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Lol... Not unusual to blow through a lot of methanol in the beginning. I did the same thing. Down to about a gallon every three tanks these days. I'd switch to the 1.0 nozzle when we load the meth tune.
I week in and I've just filled it up the second time. Started with w/m half full used and went through another full gallon before fuel fill up. I will probably use a gal of w/m per tank of gas. Was in it quite a bit though, just checking cooling, timing, etc and part of it is just the initial love for seeing that gauge spraying.
Which roughly equates to $6-7 extra per fuel fill up isn't to bad
If not 100%, what WM ratio are you running? I started with 50 - 50 before Manic, but Nick switched me to 80 - 20 --- my stage 4 needed the extra power at high RPM's.
Getting used to WMI is lots of fun! As for the extra $$, we're not supposed to be concerned about fuel costs when putting down lotsa power. Hope you're using hi quality Meth --- the FAV doesn't like contaminants. I've been using VP's M1 for a couple years with no problems.
80% meth also, M1 VP fuel.
yes of course it's only money lol, i meant as opposed to filling up with 100+ octane ($10/gal) or mixing in a few gallons for the past few months waiting on meth to get here. My car didnt like the bigger turbo/more boost on stage 2 tune with only 93 in the tank.
i have also been tinkering around with another intake, it'll be a while before i ever need dp meth but if someone else is interested. i picked up one of the N14 "cold climate" intake manifolds from ecs, they are dirt cheap for whatever reason ($40/shipped vs. $500 for the stock one?) .
They reroute the pcv hose to individual ports on the manifold right at the flange to the head. they use a hose barb with 6mmx1.0 pitch threads. The holes sit in an awkward angle but i drilled and retapped the hole for the aquamist jet itself 8mm .75 pitch. and can get a good bit of threads and tighten it up. Would probably feel better to use red loctite on the threads and silicone at the base.
the first runner i ruined trying to get a flatter base for the jet to sit onto drilled a few more holes in that runner to see if a better position was available, but decided to try in the same hole at the hose barb again
i think aquamist sells the jets with a longer neck on them for a VW application that may work better if the cone of the jet hits the intake upon dispersion
Looks good! If you get it connected and running, be sure to post the size jets you use and where you place Howerton's manifold (assuming you use it). Also compare the performance. I'm interested in how the ECU reacts to WMI after the IAT sensor. You'll still get "cool" liquid on the intake valves, but the ECU won't see it and make the usual adjustments. Obviously better WMI distribution, but how will it affect performance?
from what i saw, it looked like it was preferred to leave a small jet ahead of the iat...do the same flow calc and split it up between number of jets, would need nearly the smallest jet .4 B/C. the check valve jets may work even better as the shoulder after the threads doesnt immediately go to the hex on the body, and they have a 5mm tip option. aquamist uk site sells a direct port kit, the log/jets/tubing for about 250... not to bad of to test out.
i use a short intake right off the turbo, so for me the log could go right on the manifold or hide it in the old airbox
i have also been tinkering around with another intake, it'll be a while before i ever need dp meth but if someone else is interested. i picked up one of the N14 "cold climate" intake manifolds from ecs, they are dirt cheap for whatever reason ($40/shipped vs. $500 for the stock one?) .
They reroute the pcv hose to individual ports on the manifold right at the flange to the head. they use a hose barb with 6mmx1.0 pitch threads. The holes sit in an awkward angle but i drilled and retapped the hole for the aquamist jet itself 8mm .75 pitch. :
i think aquamist sells the jets with a longer neck on them for a VW application that may work better if the cone of the jet hits the intake upon dispersion
Will the N18 work with this setup ?
Looks like they are cross platform
The N18 valve cover does not have that rear hook up to the bypass hose, but since you are modding (removing the bypass) it for the injectors its should be fine.
* It's made for the N14 engine only with that cold climate ice build up.
Interesting. I wonder how the ECU will react to this setup. As OBW said, no temperature drop will bee seen by the IAT sensor, but you will have more control on how much goes into each cylinder. I guess if the later can be properly configured and adjusted in the ECU more power can be achieved and more engine temperature will be taken out.
Not sure about oem tuning but Manic doesn't base its tune on the IAT sensor with Meth. You have created a wet bulb by spraying the IAT with the Meth , it's not true air temp . So spraying after the IAT with manic tune isn't a big deal.
Im not sure if the amount of w/m in the mist is enough to "wet" the bulb. What happens is that w/m takes energy (temperature) from what it touches (in this case the air), so if temps go down, the ECU knows there is more oxygen, and then can it add more fuel to the mix, move timing and all the sorcery that can happen with more dense air charge.
At least what can be achieved by lowering IAT´s before the bulb wont happen after it. Dunno how much power this is, just brainstoring here lol.
Refresh my mind in this one. Car running, what LEDs should be on or blinking? The shop has been manipultating wires and although the SYS test works perfect, there is no flow nor the pump kicks in when driving.
Refresh my mind in this one. Car running, what LEDs should be on or blinking? The shop has been manipultating wires and although the SYS test works perfect, there is no flow nor the pump kicks in when driving.
My HFS4, car running, WMI switched on, engine below zero boost (intake manifold under vacuum), 1st and last red lights (one at each end) are both on steady, not blinking, no other lights on.
WMI switched off, engine running any conditions, yellow Water Level lite is on steady, no other lights on.
Also, my fail-safe circuit was never connected, so operating indications might be a little different. The user manual, version 1, has a pretty good description of all the lights and their operating conditions.
You might want to check all the connectors on the control box, I've had them work loose. Maybe remove and re-install each connector to ensure it's engaged. Wires attached to the ECU might be loose too --- depending on original installation workmanship, a positap connector might have come loose. All are worth checking.
My HFS4, car running, WMI switched on, engine below zero boost (intake manifold under vacuum), 1st and last red lights (one at each end) are both on steady, not blinking, no other lights on.
WMI switched off, engine running any conditions, yellow Water Level lite is on steady, no other lights on.
Also, my fail-safe circuit was never connected, so operating indications might be a little different. The user manual, version 1, has a pretty good description of all the lights and their operating conditions.
You might want to check all the connectors on the control box, I've had them work loose. Maybe remove and re-install each connector to ensure it's engaged. Wires attached to the ECU might be loose too --- depending on original installation workmanship, a positap connector might have come loose. All are worth checking.
perfect!!! Thanks, I remember the idc LED blinks as it senses the duty cycle. Right? I have nothing on or blinking when the car isidle.
Also, any one mind sharing a picture of jumper settings?
So I just ordered my HFS-4 v3.1 off Aquamist Direct with 0.8mm, 0.9mm and 1.0mm jets. I can get 99.95% meth from a local speed shop. What else will I need before it comes? I plan on switching between Manic Stage 2 Maps B and C depending on weather and how I'm feeling and running straight meth. I want to put the gauge in the driver's side air vent, and I've seen a Alta or Craven part to do that I think.
couple posts back show the craven mount i put mine in.
howerton does a few things specific to r56 on the controller, solders a few point together might want to start looking into it hopefully someone that knows will add
Destilled water 😜
Go a couple of pages back to take a look to the settings and jumpers in the controller board. There are some adjustments to the pump, to the controller and to all the set up for the MINi
Got my R56 specific HFS-4 kit from aquamist-direct.com yesterday. Ordering the R56 specific tank from Howerton separately. I'm looking through the package and I only have a generic user manual (v3.12). Are there more installation instructions specific to the R56 out there that I can get?
Got my R56 specific HFS-4 kit from aquamist-direct.com yesterday. Ordering the R56 specific tank from Howerton separately. I'm looking through the package and I only have a generic user manual (v3.12). Are there more installation instructions specific to the R56 out there that I can get?
My generic user manual is "HFS-4 pwm V1". Howerton also furnished "R56 MINI Cooper Installation Instructions For Aquamist HFS-4/3/2 System". Mine is Rev D dated 3-25-12 --- I've had it for awhile! Fully illustrated and about 35 pages of letter-size paper --- a small book. Maybe contact him and ensure you get the latest copy?
One more dumb question, I have to drill a 23mm hole in the tank (which I bought separately direct from Howerton) for the outlet fitting. How did the rest of you guys go about this? I'm gonna see what sort of drill bits I can find at Harbor Freight but I have a feeling I'm going to struggle finding the right tool for the job outside of online.
Who knows when the price will go up. Right now it's pretty low.
