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Detonation occurs after the ignition event, pre-ignition occurs before. So in a pre-ignition event the flame front strikes the piston on it way up during the compression stroke. This places far more stress on the pistons and will destroy an engine in short order compared to detonation. During detonation torque falls off. During pre-ignition torque disappears and the engine feels like its bucking or stuttering. Needless to say if you run into it you need to address it immediately.
Okay just making sure. I have a vibration in 3rd and 4th gear (that I'm pretty sure is flywheel vibration or a motor mount) and I'm just ruling out possibilities. Sounds more like a catastrophic failure than a minor inconvenience.
Got around to putting Vlad back on the dyno with 5% water, 10% acetone and 85% meth. His previous best on the dyno was 291 horse and 281 torque in forth gear. Vlad would spin the tires on the dyno in third. On the first run today torque was down 50 ft.lbs and I was like what the hell. On the second run we figured out that Vlad was now slipping on the rollers in forth gear. Luckily, the shop had some sticky spray they applied to the tires and we tried it one last time. With some traction Vlad managed 295 ft.lbs on the next pull. The extra 14 ft.lbs came in the midrange. Top end numbers stayed the same which isn’t to surprising. I think I’ve reached the point where the stock head and cams are choking the engine up top. So it looks like my butt dyno was right
Got around to putting Vlad back on the dyno with 5% water, 10% acetone and 85% meth. His previous best on the dyno was 291 horse and 281 torque in forth gear. Vlad would spin the tires on the dyno in third. On the first run today torque was down 50 ft.lbs and I was like what the hell. On the second run we figured out that Vlad was now slipping on the rollers in forth gear. Luckily, the shop had some sticky spray they applied to the tires and we tried it one last time. With some traction Vlad managed 295 ft.lbs on the next pull. The extra 14 ft.lbs came in the midrange. Top end numbers stayed the same which isn’t to surprising. I think I’ve reached the point where the stock head and cams are choking the engine up top. So it looks like my butt dyno was right
woha w w w w w w wait...!!!
Before I just go and try this myself.... any graphs? any special consideration before puting in acetone?
I haven't tried concentrations higher than 10% yet so unless you have a separate knock sensor I don't recommend it. No mechanical or tuning changes on these graphs. Same dyno and the ambient temps for the recent run was only two degrees higher. With the wheel spin the dyno operator was rolling on the throttle a little more slowly. Another thing to note is the slight change in AFR. Previous the AFR was 11.05 on the top end, with acetone added to the mix the AFR leaned out to 11.49. As far as mixing goes calculating acetone concentrations is very easy. Unlike water with a specific gravity of 1.0, it has a specific gravity of .787 v.s. methanol at .789.
I haven't tried concentrations higher than 10% yet so unless you have a separate knock sensor I don't recommend it. No mechanical or tuning changes on these graphs. Same dyno and the ambient temps for the recent run was only two degrees higher. With the wheel spin the dyno operator was rolling on the throttle a little more slowly. Another thing to note is the slight change in AFR. Previous the AFR was 11.05 on the top end, with acetone added to the mix the AFR leaned out to 11.49. As far as mixing goes calculating acetone concentrations is very easy. Unlike water with a specific gravity of 1.0, it has a specific gravity of .787 v.s. methanol at .789.
I have mixed feelings with this graph. Yes, torque goes up, but later on.
Cant say I blame ya. Difficult to compare my torque graphs to smaller turbos as mine spoils a little faster than a Garrett but is still a big honking turbo with 51x66mm compressor wheel. If anyone else feels like going to the trouble to produce some data for the community that would be great. If no one steps up I could reinstall the JCW turbo and step back down to the Stage 2 meth tune. But honestly that would be a PIA.
This will demonstrate better than a description I think. Old Vlad vs New, Stage 2 meth JCW vs Stage 3 meth X51 all else being equal. Below 3700 RPM New Vlad lags behind Old Vlad in first gear. After that it's a different ballgame. I think I need to find a local dyno with newer rollers that aren't as worn, then we might have some better data.
This will demonstrate better than a description I think. Old Vlad vs New, Stage 2 meth JCW vs Stage 3 meth X51 all else being equal. Below 3700 RPM New Vlad lags behind Old Vlad in first gear. After that it's a different ballgame. I think I need to find a local dyno with newer rollers that aren't as worn, then we might have some better data.
i took the newly cam'd yukon to fitzgibbon performance in coconut creek, place is ****** built out nice. they've got a superflow, load bearing rolling (needed awd for yukon) dyno. they will probably end up tuning so my runs were for a baseline. but i think they do just 2x dyno runs @$50 every couple weeks. will prob drop by with mini if I ever get it back together and we ever get it tuned
This will demonstrate better than a description I think. Old Vlad vs New, Stage 2 meth JCW vs Stage 3 meth X51 all else being equal. Below 3700 RPM New Vlad lags behind Old Vlad in first gear. After that it's a different ballgame. I think I need to find a local dyno with newer rollers that aren't as worn, then we might have some better data.
Putting the extra power to one side (difficult I know)
Is the more progressive curve giving you a Nicer drive,
compared to the typical flat top turbo torque of everything available from go
Odd subjective question, but if you don't get to use the higher rpm often on the street is the gain up top worth the loss low down ?
Or was it too much to begin with, so no real trade off to consider
Actually I like this power curve much better. Traction was a problem with the JCW turbo and meth tune, even with the LSD. It does a much better job of staying hooked up now.
The only time its slower now is first gear to 3700 rpm. At that point they're both making 250ish ft.lbs of torque. With the new turbo I don't drop back down to that level till 6000 rpm.
The curve also highlights the flow limits of the stock head without help. If you've ever have one of these apart it's amazing just how choked the ports are on the short side radius.
qq - any 3" in your exhaust system.. or all 2.5 still?
*intercooler coming soon for my JCW, I would like to stg2 and meth after the install; just not sure about which DP I should go with and/or if larger pipe back is really needed on the stock snail or not.
qq - any 3" in your exhaust system.. or all 2.5 still?
*intercooler coming soon for my JCW, I would like to stg2 and meth after the install; just not sure about which DP I should go with and/or if larger pipe back is really needed on the stock snail or not.
i be running a 2.5 down pipe with s 3” ddm works race exhaust ! Good tone very quiet at the low rpm’s ! Then in higher rpms sounds like a race car
qq - any 3" in your exhaust system.. or all 2.5 still?
*intercooler coming soon for my JCW, I would like to stg2 and meth after the install; just not sure about which DP I should go with and/or if larger pipe back is really needed on the stock snail or not.
Bigger is always better with downpipes. But to my knowledge most commercially available downpipes are 2.5".
Bigger is always better with downpipes. But to my knowledge most commercially available downpipes are 2.5".
I would agree with you if the turbo was bigger !
there’s been a couple different discussions on this topic !
i’ve personally talk to Mario & the guys at way motor works! When they ran both 3” an 2.5 on a dyno there was zero difference between the two ‘ other then the 3” was a bit louder !! An when I talk to Mario ‘ he was running a 47mm ‘
i think Cts turbo makes a 3” but I’ve heard a lot of mixed reviews on it And on top of that that 3 inch pipe was designed to run their GT 2028 much bigger turbo
I guess at this point it’s a little bit more of personal preference
There is no reason to go to a larger downpipe unless you've ported the outlet of the exhaust turbine. The dimensions of the outlet are 2.5". It can be ported to approximately 2.7" IIRC before you reach the edge of the metal exhaust gasket. Going any further than that would not be a good idea and porting that side of it is not necessary or beneficial anyways.
I plan on meth injection, but it's a while down the road for me. I'd prefer an Aquamist system due to high quality and reliability, but there's other options too,
see WnW's excellent thread on the subject,
here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...and-boost.html
Fortunately, there's lotsa great info here on NAM regarding this topic and reading everything can be illuminating as to how to approach a good set-up.
Hey everyone, I've got a question for you all. For those of you using the Howerton Kit, or I suppose any 1 gallon tank setup, and an 80/20 methanol/water mix, what are your measurements to achieve that mix at one gallon? I've read through this thread and saw a post mentioning 5qt methanol to 1qt water as a good 80/20 ratio, but that would be 1.5gal total. I do generally understand the concept that you're measuring by weight and that methanol has a different specific gravity than water, but when it comes to translating that into 'how do I make 1 gallon of 80/20' it might as well be rocket science because I'm not getting it. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I buy 5 Gallon M1 and 1 gallon distilled, I pour the 1 gallon in to the 5 gallon container, it will hold almost all of it the I pour back and fourth between the 1 gallon and 5 gallon to get a good mix. Using the 1 gallon to fill the cars reservoir.