Drivetrain Battle/DNA Tune Thread
I understand what everyone is saying but I could have sworn I saw more boost on my boost gauge. I might have been in a different gear thou...
Sounds like a test to me....lol I will download stock file and see.....
Thanks for the info.....
Sounds like a test to me....lol I will download stock file and see.....
Thanks for the info.....
Back to the sport button , The dyno sheet I'm posting is stock everything. The first pull of 153.7 is sport button off , then the 2nd and 3rd pull is sport button on , 161.6 and 162.2 ...... so lets just say 7 hp different ????
Seam like to me the button does more than just change the gas pedel and steering ???
Seam like to me the button does more than just change the gas pedel and steering ???
Doesn't sport mode also enable over boost (allows a temporary boost spike) This is of course is with the stock map. Also, with your dyno, try and do it in 4th gear instead of 3rd. I waisted a whole dyno session not doing this.
There is no place that I have seen that shows the added PSI from over boost, or even how to access it. However, it is generally believed (via data like yours) that Sport mode does 3 things (with a stock tune):
1) remaps the throttle sensitivity. Try just moving from a red light with it on and with it off, there is a huge difference, however, it really makes little difference with WOT
2) tightens the steering; AKA makes it "heavier"
3) Allows over boost. The Bently Manual only mentions an increase of TQ, but it would go without saying that allowing added boost (1-2PSI woulds about right) would in fact increase HP too.
Now, with a tune (as seen in this thread) sport mode will not do the last function as max PSI should be utilized with the tune, this is why most people say it does nothing in reference to a tune thread.
With my 07 MCS "Sport Mode" On boost is cut at 4000 rpms, however with "Sport Mode" Off boost is cut at 4500 rpms. My manual only confirms this to be true. Looking at flier for the 2013 GP2 technical data says "Sport Mode" Off 1750-5750 rpm and "Sport Mode" On 2000-5100 rpm.
As for the number on here in the military (or were) military types in my experience tend to enjoy tinkering and/or be able to appreciate performance either from being an Alpha type or from being around unique machines, etc. Plus it's often a good way to hang out with the guys (or gals) drinking beers between shifts/duty hours in places where a bar or whatever else may not be readily available. Just for some off-the-cuff reasons why it might seem there's more military on a largely mod-oriented forum for a rather sport-oriented vehicle.
Sorry if re-derailed, back on track...
If this is a fairly decent spot for it, what's the main difference between linear tunes, aggressive, etc? Is it initial punch when pressing the pedal vs a smooth acceleration curve throughout the gears or is there more behind them?
Last edited by Aelwulf; Sep 2, 2014 at 04:00 AM.
Most people do not care for the pure linear throttle tune. Its very boggy at the low end, meaning you have to put a lot of throttle input to get it to go. In several cases, from what John told me, people kept killing it when taking off from a dead stop. So they made an 'aggressive-linear' tune for that problem. Its a lot more user friendly. It feels like a N.A. in terms of input, and as you said, it gives a smoother acceleration. I run this throttle map. The standard throttle map is like stock. A lot more throttle output for a set amount of throttle input. When it comes to full throttle it makes no difference of course. Standard throttle will feel faster down low but its not.
You should get the FES Auto On. I never have to take the extra step of hitting the sport button. Some will say it takes less than a sec to push it and get going, sure, but I would like to do one less thing when I get in the car and not have to think about it. $50 well spend in my book. I spend well over $10k on the MINI, what's $50 I say...
Color me odd, but I like having to hit a bunch of buttons. I like the toggle switches and having to flick them. If its not too hot of a day where I don't feel like venting the car as I approch it, I'll keep the windows up just so I can hit 3 window switches, lock button, sport button, radio, a/c or heat (if needed), and start button. One of those boyish things I love. Like its a plane/jet/spaceship
Color me odd, but I like having to hit a bunch of buttons. I like the toggle switches and having to flick them. If its not too hot of a day where I don't feel like venting the car as I approch it, I'll keep the windows up just so I can hit 3 window switches, lock button, sport button, radio, a/c or heat (if needed), and start button. One of those boyish things I love. Like its a plane/jet/spaceship 


I have a mechanical keyboard at work and these are buttons worth mashing on.
Laptop at home has one of those flat keyboards and I hate it. Thats why I spend most of my forum time on the work keyboard. Mechanical is much better. I need the feedback and contour of the keys.
Laptop doesn't bother me too much, but only reason why I use a mechanical is because it's a Razer gaming keyboard which has a few macros on the side I can make. Very helpful with the work I do, so it's a win win.
Anyways! Back to tuning!
Anyways! Back to tuning!
I have a question about the BT Stage 3. What advantage do either tune give you? I know the Linear pulls and pulls, but the non linear dumps torque and gets you to max HP quicker, wouldn't those 2 things make having it the preferred one? I am new to tuning, but it seems to me that a quick peaking plateau is better for performance (especially since both produce the same amount of HP) despite the aggressive linear feeling like it pulls more in the top end. I am constantly programing between the 2 (like weekly) to figure out which is better.
I have a question about the BT Stage 3. What advantage do either tune give you? I know the Linear pulls and pulls, but the non linear dumps torque and gets you to max HP quicker, wouldn't those 2 things make having it the preferred one? I am new to tuning, but it seems to me that a quick peaking plateau is better for performance (especially since both produce the same amount of HP) despite the aggressive linear feeling like it pulls more in the top end. I am constantly programing between the 2 (like weekly) to figure out which is better.
Me personally, I just love hearing my exhaust wailing on WOT, so that's one main reason why I like the aggressive linear map.
And when I track, it's just more predictable out of a corner compared to stomping through a corner and getting all the boost at once which isn't ideal...
I may not be the quickest everywhere I go because I have to rev the crap out of it, but it's fun this way and everyone that has driven my MINI find it interesting to say the least when they get on it and they don't feel the hard boost kicking.
I also see the aggressive linear map just another way to keep the longevity of my car in check. If its slamming all that power upfront after a while (perhaps a reallllly long while) things will fatigue. I got this tune for a little more juice for my DD vehicle.
I will post a dyno sheet tomorrow for my Battle\DNA Stage 3 tune.
I figured i would do a Stock pull and then flash to Stage 3 to show the difference. Looking to go E45 or another turbo so wanted to see how much it goes up. Also tomorrow will be to check out an issue that im having with boost running at 14psi instead of the 19 sometimes. I notice it when rolling on the throttle to full mostly but if going from 0-100% throttle i get full boost.
I figured i would do a Stock pull and then flash to Stage 3 to show the difference. Looking to go E45 or another turbo so wanted to see how much it goes up. Also tomorrow will be to check out an issue that im having with boost running at 14psi instead of the 19 sometimes. I notice it when rolling on the throttle to full mostly but if going from 0-100% throttle i get full boost.





