Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Battle/DNA Tune Thread

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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #451  
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full throttle, full boost is what I had posted..... when you said up to 50 deg at and 14psi it made my hair stand up......lolol

yes this is about full throttle... WOT.......
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 02:18 PM
  #452  
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Originally Posted by barnoun
Good point. I cannot confirm that 50 degrees is at WOT, it is what I see after doing a WOT run so it could be at partial throttle. I will followup to see what timing I get while at WOT after work today. I'll put the phone near my line of sight.
If you see really high numbers right after WOT then that is normal. Timing usually bounces around like crazy during normal driving and especially when you let up on the throttle.

From a performance standpoint timing is really only important during hard WOT driving type conditions (warning - this is an extremely generalized statement).

BTW, for readings from the ODBII port timing is limited from +60 to -60.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 03:04 PM
  #453  
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Originally Posted by ridinDirty
full throttle, full boost is what I had posted..... when you said up to 50 deg at and 14psi it made my hair stand up......lolol

yes this is about full throttle... WOT.......
Yea sorry about the confusion, I'll follow up today with the correct WOT readings.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 03:11 PM
  #454  
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This is my Manic Tune on Stage 2.5 at 22psi, 6200rpm, 10.5 timing and 12.23 AFR and no Meth. My timing also shows a high of 45, but that was coasting in neutral.
mQuebed Manic Tuning Dealer
 
Attached Thumbnails Battle/DNA Tune Thread-image-2806528093.jpg  
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 03:15 PM
  #455  
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Nice job Mario , to me that is a well tuned happy motor.....
I have a flat line.........lolol
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 05:30 PM
  #456  
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Quick question, how do guys get the screen shot while at WOT?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 05:42 PM
  #457  
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In DashCommand I record then play back.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 05:51 PM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
In DashCommand I record then play back.
Same, this was in Torque. Your have to recorded it. There is no way to drive and watch all the gauges. Do a 4th gear pull, park and watch

mQuebed Manic Tuning Dealer
 
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #459  
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I couldn't figure out recording the gauges so I recorded a data log instead. It's two 3rd gears pulls on a long uphill, about a minute apart.

My current setup:

Stage 2 non-linear map
Helix FMIC
Stock turbo
stock downpipe
2.5in exhaust with Borla XR1 muffler
 
Attached Thumbnails Battle/DNA Tune Thread-screen-shot-2014-12-05-1.jpg   Battle/DNA Tune Thread-screen-shot-2014-12-05-2.jpg  
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by barnoun
I couldn't figure out recording the gauges so I recorded a data log instead. It's two 3rd gears pulls on a long uphill, about a minute apart.

My current setup:

Stage 2 non-linear map
Helix FMIC
Stock turbo
stock downpipe
2.5in exhaust with Borla XR1 muffler
Wow, did you not push the sport button? Your coolant temps Are high...😮
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:10 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by Roxspin72
Wow, did you not push the sport button? Your coolant temps Are high...😮
It's a 2010, I've never noticed water temp dropping with the sport button. I think that's just with the newer cars.

I do think the EGTs are pretty high, not sure how to fix that though. Colder spark plugs?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:32 PM
  #462  
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My EGTs max out ~1350 F during a pull. Not sure what is "normal".
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:37 PM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by Roxspin72
Wow, did you not push the sport button? Your coolant temps Are high...😮
Coolant temps are high? My car routinely sits in the 220s without a problem. And this is an un-tuned motor.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 07:59 AM
  #464  
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Nice run. Looks like your AFR is a little rich at the end but that's a good thing. You can see as you gain more boost your timing starts to trim back and that is a good thing as well. Your fuel trim shows its pulling fuel with a neg number, I'm not to sure what you can do but I was always told your short trim fuel should be closer to 0. Over all nice trend.....

Thanks for the info.

I'm hoping to get a few goodies on during Xmas holidays and run my next stage. If I have timing issues at that point I will send DNA/Battle a graph.....
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 08:35 AM
  #465  
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Cool, glad I could be of some help.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 09:19 AM
  #466  
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A+ thx
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 12:01 PM
  #467  
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Originally Posted by Agbullet25
Coolant temps are high? My car routinely sits in the 220s without a problem. And this is an un-tuned motor.
Guess the N14s coolant levels are high.

Just to clarify EGT is not coolant temps.

EGTs would be in and around 1350 deg plus @WOT

As far as coolant: my R56 with the manic tune sits steadily at 180deg. But even before the tune, I always saw around 185-190ish deg when sport button is on. BTW I never drive without my sport button engaged.😁
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #468  
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I asked Battle about lowering the fan setting. He said they could not do it. Mine runs around 220 but if I turn the AC on it runs 215. I think the AC turns the fan on sooner or something like that.
I saw how Manic will make your car run cooler as well. This use to be the sh*t back in the day with the V8's but I think the newer cars are finding more economy etc with running the engines hotter. I'm sure you can start a major forum in that department alone. I'm one of the guys who wants it cooler.....
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 02:20 PM
  #469  
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Originally Posted by ridinDirty
I asked Battle about lowering the fan setting. He said they could not do it. Mine runs around 220 but if I turn the AC on it runs 215. I think the AC turns the fan on sooner or something like that.
I saw how Manic will make your car run cooler as well. This use to be the sh*t back in the day with the V8's but I think the newer cars are finding more economy etc with running the engines hotter. I'm sure you can start a major forum in that department alone. I'm one of the guys who wants it cooler.....
I've heard this to. But I will be the first one to say it, my fuel economy has been awesome. I feel that running the engine hotter is more of a manufacturer claim... I was running an upgraded thermostat on my Tacoma with an APR Tune, great improvement. But I shall digress and allow this thread to get back on track. Just happy to share info for all enthusiast👍
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 05:38 PM
  #470  
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Originally Posted by ridinDirty
I asked Battle about lowering the fan setting. He said they could not do it. Mine runs around 220 but if I turn the AC on it runs 215. I think the AC turns the fan on sooner or something like that.
I saw how Manic will make your car run cooler as well. This use to be the sh*t back in the day with the V8's but I think the newer cars are finding more economy etc with running the engines hotter. I'm sure you can start a major forum in that department alone. I'm one of the guys who wants it cooler.....
Most early N14's run at 226 degrees Fahrenheit and when the N18 came out it was lowered to 185 degrees Fahrenheit. For the N14 it was an attempt to improve emissions which is why they burn oil, well that and other reasons I won't get in to now.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 06:36 PM
  #471  
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Originally Posted by Systemlord

Most early N14's run at 226 degrees Fahrenheit and when the N18 came out it was lowered to 185 degrees Fahrenheit. For the N14 it was an attempt to improve emissions which is why they burn oil, well that and other reasons I won't get in to now.
Which is all the more reason why I won't let the dealer "program" the ECU after blasting the valves for carbon buildup. All it does is raise cylinder temps and it already runs hot enough.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 07:16 PM
  #472  
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Originally Posted by Agbullet25
Which is all the more reason why I won't let the dealer "program" the ECU after blasting the valves for carbon buildup. All it does is raise cylinder temps and it already runs hot enough.
How are you running cooler coolant temps? Was you ECU programmed that way?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #473  
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Wow! I have read all 19 pages on the Battle DNA tune!
I'm coming from the Audi World of Tuners. I had an 01 TT Coupe
Awesome ride! Constant repairs but did all myself so saved big!
So far I love my mini s 09 I installed the cat less Evolve DP pretty simple
Compared to install for the TT
I have a larger no name FMIC did the hot side muffler delete. So far I like
The power yes chirps the wheels in second without tune which is sweet!
Next is the tune and Battle is my choice! Now tuning has slowed as
Per John so I guess I'm waiting please post when I can get your tune!
Would be a great x-mas gift to myself!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 12:59 PM
  #474  
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Originally Posted by Systemlord

How are you running cooler coolant temps? Was you ECU programmed that way?
I'm not running cooler temps. Im at 226 already. I was saying I'm not in favor of the dealership raising the cylinder temps higher in an effort to curb carbon buildup when it already runs hotter then later build cars.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 04:07 PM
  #475  
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Originally Posted by Agbullet25
I'm not running cooler temps. Im at 226 already. I was saying I'm not in favor of the dealership raising the cylinder temps higher in an effort to curb carbon buildup when it already runs hotter then later build cars.
Raising the cylinder temperatures would definitely keep carbon at bay, but it's bad for the engine especially the valves, wouldn't want a burned valve to lose a small chunk around the edge.
 
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