Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain D1 Spec Throttle Boost REVIEW!!!!!!!! FINALLY!!!!

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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:26 PM
  #326  
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I'm going to piggy back on jroland - I'm going on 8 mos with the D1 and it has been flawless. Of course, you get used to it but once you go back to normal or even down to SP 3 or 4, you realize what it gives you.

Just a quick story - towards the end of my run in May (I lead it so I get to dictate the pace ) I couldn't help but push it on one of my favorite sections of the run. I had a tuned and lowered Countryman (a beast of a car, actually) and a JCW behind me so we went wild for about 2 miles. A couple of Cooper S's were behind them and disappeared from view. Afterwards, two of the S owners came up to me and wanted to know what was under the bonnet... Just 3 things let me get power to the wheels in a hurry - the D1-Spec, an intake and NM's torque arm insert. Throw in the suspension mods and this car has become so much fun, it's ridiculous.

Would have never pulled the trigger on the D-1 if it weren't for this thread and S&CLC's suggestion to look into it.

Motor ON!!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 04:44 AM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by jamez
Keeping the old thread alive, I just bought one from ebay. Original offer to one of the vendors at 108AU it was not accepted. $110AU offer (to what I assume is another version of the same vendor) was accepted.

$130.99CAD shipped to Toronto, Canada supposedly (I'll update when it arrives)
Got mine on Friday.
It was shipped Hong Kong Post listed with this info: Gift, Silicone hose, worth $10USD

It arrived 6 Business days after the order with no duty.

Now I just need my car to put it in... I'll update on my progres.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 05:40 AM
  #328  
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Looks like this is the one I want for my 2008 Justa Cooper Manual, price is right. A couple of observations and questions.

Do you guys still use the Sport button? When calibrating for the first time with the ignition on but the engine off - do you depress the Sport button?

It seems all of you settle down to one setting and leave it there, I think I will find that number and then shove the whole lot up under the dash - no need to look at it ever again if I find a setting I like?

The only reason I anticipate disconnecting the ODB connector is once a year to get the Emissions tested, so I can just simply unplug it and drive to the testing station? No need to re-calibrate afterwards?

BTW: I have decided to buy from Greasy for a couple of reasons. US based, obvious Mini Enthusiasts, and their website demonstrates a great sense of humor - must be a fun place to work and I like to encourage that sort of thing.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 06:00 AM
  #329  
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I was wondering about hiding the whole thing behind the dash as well (once configured to my liking).

I think they'll have my car ready today so I'll install this weekend.

Sorry, but I can't help with the slushbox & sport button.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 04:34 AM
  #330  
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I had thought that if I ever purchased one of these that I would run the adjustment control inside the glove box. I would probably use double sided tape on the glove box door. That way if I ever wanted to adjust it all you have to do is drop the door.
Steve
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 04:40 AM
  #331  
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Not a bad idea, I'll see if I can get it in there this weekend.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 07:35 AM
  #332  
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For those of you who have installed the D1....does it actually get rid of the lag, or just amplify where you have the pedal? In order words....it give the motor 75% throttle when you have the pedal 50% down to the floor?

If that's the case....is the last inch or so of pedal travel unresponsive because by that point the motor is already seeing 100% throttle....??
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #333  
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If that's the case....is the last inch or so of pedal travel unresponsive because by that point the motor is already seeing 100% throttle....??
i dont believe it acts as linearly as 5% pedal = 10% throttle.....

i believe it modifies the throttle curve so that steepens the curve

something like this
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 05:09 AM
  #334  
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It's funny to read about everyone's installations.

Honestly it took me longer to try to find some zip ties and double sided tape (turns out there are some in the kit) than it did to do the install. Fiddling with the pedal and knee cover took probably 10 minutes and the install took about 5.

Cleaning it all up and finding a spot to put it takes way longer.

My kit didn't need any cutting or modifications to the plugs. I'm running it through the OBD plug for now.

If it matters I got 0v on the 0% and 1.5v on the 100% of the pedal travel.

As for results, I'm running 7 right now - mostly because everyone else is - I'll have to fiddle with it to see what I like. I've only gone about 5 kms with it installed. I'll update again when I've driven more.

I can say that "blip'ing" the throttle is much easier with it and doesn't require so much ankle twist when heel-toe'ing.
 

Last edited by jamez; Jun 24, 2013 at 05:16 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 01:01 AM
  #335  
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From: Mass-North Quabbin
Originally Posted by OldGameFreaK
I was wondering how things were going? are you still happy with it, do you have any other feedback on it? Do you have any pics of where you found to install it?
I had Greasy's install a D1 Spec7 in my R50 a little less than a year/20k miles ago.

Here's my one word long term review:

Meh.

To expand on that further:

All it is is an amplifier. I read somewhere that you could get the same effect by sliding your seat forward a few notches. Sure, it's hyperbole, but it makes the point that all it;s doing is effectively pressing the pedal down more than your foot is actually moving.

For the first few weeks (and occasionally thereafter), i tried different settings. I eventually settled on Sport 2 and never really touch it now. When I do, I'm reminded that anything north of "3" feels twitchy, tweaky and superfluous.

And I never use the Economy mode. Who would want to dumb down their throttle response?

One big disappointment is that it has done little-to-nothing to change the throttle lag; the seeming loss of electrical signal coming out of the pedal early in its travel. This is noticeable when starting in first gear. I sometimes have to get the revs up real high before dropping the clutch to counteract this dropout. I was hoping the D Spec would smooth that over, but it has done very little for it.

As for mounting, Greasy's stuck mine to the small painted dash panel to the right of the steering column. i din't like looking at it, and didn't need access to it, so I pulled it off and for the past 3 months or so, I just have it draped over the directional leaver which I actually like. I can just pick it up and read it like a pocket watch on a chain and when I'm done, just let it hang there.

If i knew then what i know now, I would have saved my money b/c when it's really "doing it's thing" it feels wrong. That said i do appreciate the little boost it gives the electric signal coming out of the pedal. It does make the car a little more peppy. But not any differently than simply pressing a little further on the gas. (b/c that's all it's doing for you really)
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 10:21 AM
  #336  
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Thanks for the detailed review. That’s kind of what I was wishing the D1 WASN’T….just a throttle amplifier. I can push down on the pedal harder and get the same result….but that sluggish throttle lag is still going to be there. I think the problem is the stock ECU, and also just the design of the motor. The little motor doesn’t make much HP off of boost anyway, so when it’s idling…..and spinning all of that extra mass (super charger), it’s not going to have extra sharp throttle response like a non-aspirated motor. On top of that, the fly-by-wire throttle and the build in delay and “smoothing out” done by the stock ECU doesn’t help either. I don’t think any “plug and play” device is going to cure that. At an idle, I don’t think any small CC motor with a SC or TC is going to have awesome throttle response….that’s just a trade off you have to live with. These motors are designed around making power with boost….and at idle, they just don’t respond very fast to throttle input.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 06:20 PM
  #337  
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Too bad, because I was about to purchase one to help out that lag on take-off. I guess I need to figure out something else.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:52 AM
  #338  
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From: Mass-North Quabbin
Originally Posted by Debi's Coop S
Too bad, because I was about to purchase one to help out that lag on take-off. I guess I need to figure out something else.
I know...

I find my lag is mostly gone when the AC is off. Could it be just the fact that these little motors simply have no torque at low revs?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 02:55 PM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by Mynewt
I know...

I find my lag is mostly gone when the AC is off. Could it be just the fact that these little motors simply have no torque at low revs?
Yep....I think that's the main cause. And on top of that, when the motor is having to spin the supercharger at low rpms its not making boost, so it's just drag on the motor.....using up what little torque the motor is making.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 06:14 PM
  #340  
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quick question....

i just got mine installed today and i noticed the LCD module does not shut off when the car is turned off, is this going to be an issue?

also, what are all those other wires for? i have the harness that plugs into the pedals, and the OBD2 power wires, but then i have a few blue and yellow wires( i think those were the colors).....what are those wires for?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #341  
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The unit stays on for 5 or 10 mins after you shut the car off. There's no problem there.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 10:23 PM
  #342  
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The ECU stays powered up for approx. 5 min .

It's all good .

Randy
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 09:24 AM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by Mcameron
quick question....

i just got mine installed today and i noticed the LCD module does not shut off when the car is turned off, is this going to be an issue?

also, what are all those other wires for? i have the harness that plugs into the pedals, and the OBD2 power wires, but then i have a few blue and yellow wires( i think those were the colors).....what are those wires for?
The other wires are for additional functionality but are not needed for a basic install. One of the wires if hooked up will put the unit into Normal mode when you shift into reverse. I have not had any issues staying in SP mode while backing up yet. Another wire is for the speed alarm. Everyone I have talked t does not hook up any of the wires.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 01:47 PM
  #344  
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This thing SUCKS.......in economy mode! I just did a quick install over lunch and ran it around the block. What a blast!! Now it has the throttle response of my MB E550 in sport mode. You can get rid of the lag in the upper SP modes and it drives like it should. I would buy it again in a heart beat. As a matter of fact I will be buying one for a Subaru BRZ if it is made. It was plug and play with no issues so it looks like the plug modification is a thing of the past. I wish I would have done this mod sooner.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:45 PM
  #345  
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I recently purchased the Sprint Booster. It is day and night difference. Well worth it.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:03 AM
  #346  
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Originally Posted by Redhotz
I recently purchased the Sprint Booster. It is day and night difference. Well worth it.

This is way too vague. Which is better the Sprint Booster or D1? Why?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #347  
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Originally Posted by Noonzio
Slide it enough to the left to actually get it off its runner - at that point the top of it (the most forward point) will actually be touching the steering column, and you'll think you're putting the throttle pedal under pressure . . which you kind of are. When you get it off its runner there's plenty of space (and leeway in the cable) to remove the harness from the unit
Guys just wondering if someone could help here. I have just purchased a controller and am trying to find the connector for the gas pedal. I am in Australia so my gas pedal is nowhere near the steering column. Is it actually the pedal you need to get off or is it the back supporting plastic plate behind. This is the plate that the pedal touches when you push the pedal to the floor.
There does not seem to be any electronics in the gas pedal they seem to be behind the plastic supporting box behind the gas pedal.
Sorry for the dumb question

Tks in advance
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #348  
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This is for a current MINI:
Older MINIs have a plastic clip that holds the pedal assembly on transverse rail; pry the clip with a screwdriver, and the pedal slides toward the middle of the footwell. The "pedal" is an assembly, including the pedal itself, the hinge, the electronics, etc.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 01:32 AM
  #349  
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Thanks RickB
Once I realised where the clip was it became obvious.
The whole install took me about an hour.
I actually wanted to try the D1 for a different reason than most. My manual R53 Cooper s had a problem when you changed from 1st to second and second to third the car would surge just as you had released the clutch and depressed the gas pedal. I put the D1 in Eco 5 mode and the hop is gone,.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 07:27 AM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by tsmsoccer
Thanks RickB
Once I realised where the clip was it became obvious.
The whole install took me about an hour.
I actually wanted to try the D1 for a different reason than most. My manual R53 Cooper s had a problem when you changed from 1st to second and second to third the car would surge just as you had released the clutch and depressed the gas pedal. I put the D1 in Eco 5 mode and the hop is gone,.
You might want to check your engine mount bushings.....that could be causing your "surging" problems....too much slack in your driveline. Could also be LCA bushings, or transmission bushings.
 
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