So though Danny is the better driver and in theory had more horsepower and a lighter car than you, you went quicker than him Jan.

As Tuls would say Kewl.

 

I would say my GP is lighter than his S
I don't know who has more hp but I do know who has more tq
I do know Danny is a better driver

 

I have a 2002 MCS with around 48,000 miles on it. I have a Borla exhaust and alta CAI. With this kit what would I have to change so my motor would go KABOOM..?
How much around would it cost?
IM getting a chubby already.....

AND WHAT IS WITH THIS LOBSTER STUFF?:impatient

 

Jan, so you stated the HP, but would you feel comfortable releasing your TQ numbers? I am very interested.

 

If your engine is sound I doubt you need to worry, a leak down and compression check would be required. Longboards car has 43k on it and runs like a top.

 

I haven't stated any hp numbers for the car that went 1:30 at SOW.

 

No beefed-up internals or anything? If so, that's awesome

 

the stock rods have seen way more hp than is being put out here. This project with the smaller rotrex should be in the 250-275whp range but do it all day long on cooler boost. We data logged it going to UFC 76 the other day at 7degrees over ambient after the intercooler with the stock unit. Water temp was 183-191 max we saw.

 

What's the typical after the intercooler temp of a stock S?

 

it all depends on what pulley size you have on and what intercooler

 

How about a 15% and stock IC? Just trying to get an idea of how much cooler this runs over the Eaton.

 

Ok, I understand now. I for got which car you were talking about at the time. It's all good, I don't expect you to release numbers for your race car.
So what is Longboard's TQ?

 

2 questions

(1)
So basically your telling me that I can take my stock 2002 MCS with a stock intercooler, stock rods, stock pistons, stock fuel injectors, stock spark plugs and wiring, stock everything and slap this bad boy kit on and thats it?

(2)
How much roughly is this kit going to cost?

thanks, Justin

 

^If you are planning on much more than 230-240WHP, then you will definitely need a better clutch. I would also change my spark plugs and maybe wires for good measure.

 

we still haven't gotten Longboards car tuned. Once done you will get the numbers. We always publish the numbers unless it's a race car.

 

Thanks.

 

I'm running the stock IC, stock pistons, stock rods, stock plugs (2 steps cooler though) and stock wiring with everything under the sun, pushing close to what longboard was pushing with his old M45 blower, no issues whatsoever.

You will need to bump up the injectors if you don't want to pop your motor though, they start going lean past about 220 HP. I'm runing Bosche 380's.

 

you will need at least 380cc injectors
stock plug wires are fine. They are on all of the cars we do except my drag car which has a coil on plug system.
If you have a head and header you will make more power. That is the first version we are testing it on. I am sure we will test one on a bone stock head in the future but I am selling a complete "track" ready kit.

The goal of this is to provide a few things

1. Better mileage
2. cooler engine and inlet temps
3. more power
4. more torque

 

I'm running the stock clutch and it catches fine, with almost 20,000 miles on it it definitely shows it's age, but I won't end up swapping it out for a few more months. My MC40 with 238 hp to the wheels also ran the stock clutch with no slipping.

Stock wiring too. Jan had stock wiring on his dragster up until 400+ HP (He now runs a coil on plug setup). There's no need to swap out wiring. , just a waste of money.

 

You guys must have gotten better stock cluthces than I have. I did not abuse mine in any way. It just failed. No hot spots or any other indication of abuse were present. It just flew apart.

 

It's possible, I don't know. It's fairly easy to keep a clutch going if you don't do 5k rpm burnouts at every stoplight. Most MINI's have pretty durable clutches.

I usually ramp up the power, rather than dropping the clutch at some ridiculous RPM. Once it's clamped down you need to be making quite a bit more power than stock to cause it to slip. I can see it slipping if you're dropping it at 3500-4k, it's just too much power. NO clutch is going to last long like that.

I Let the clutch out at 1600-1800 RPM's and once the pedal is out and clamped, pour the power on.

 

That is my driving style as well. I like to keep things intact when I drive. Plus I don't like the price of tires.

 

I have never dumped the clutch either.

 

Parada Spec-2's appear to be popular out here. 60-75 for a tire, and they're pretty sticky from what I hear .

 

when you say stock head you mean?
What about prices?