I do not attribute this problem to my BBK.

While depressing the brake pedal at moderate to low braking pressure, there is a ratcheting, almost quick pulsed clicking noise that eminates from the brakes while at the same time a definate dry slipping noise - not a squeek - eminating from the brake pedal area...like dry rubber against metal. The noise is not audible at threshold braking pressure. The ratcheting noise also existings at near zero speed, but stop completely when the car is not moving - the dry slipping occurs in motion or at a complete stop. The pedal is very mushy FWIW. Perhaps air in the lines caused these sensations or noises? The driver's bottom, outside bleeder (Wilwood) is wet - just noticed this. Perhaps I've sucked in a little air. The pedal confirms this, but the noises are completely foriegn to my experience.

This does not occur while the car is moving backward.

Could the ABS be a probable cause? This began suddenly about two weeks ago. It's not worse, nor is it better. Wasn't there and now it is. Can the ABS sensor become blocked or clogged - sorry, no experience with these.

I do have the Wilwood kit with ATE fluid - which is about 60 days old. Everything on the kit is bolted properly and safety wired - just pulled it all apart last weekend to check.

 

meb, you should go back to the simple times.

almost every other week we read posts about problems on your car.

 

I get it on my clutch pedal. I'm thinking seals in the cylinder? I sure hope not..... But I don't have a soft pedal, and it only happens part way through the pedal travel.

Let me know what you find....

Matt

 

Matt,

I was hoping you might have something to add. Perhaps something was not installed correctly after the subframe was removed...if anything in the removal is related to the subframe. I'll figure it out at some point.

Kenchan - I am very close to doing just that. The problem is I drive 3,000 - 4,000 miles a month on all sorts of roads. The car gets beat up and I get stressed becasue I have only weekends to work on it. But I also have a house two children a wife etc. This needs to be a track only car. Very soon if I have my way...September. But your wisdom is spot on for me at this time. I'm thinking of buying a Honda Civic hybrid for my commute. Gas and oil baby!

I've brought this on myself, no one to blame but me. I should have known better.

 

Sorry that I can't help with your brake problem but I can support your desire to make the MINI a track car. I just did that and I bought a Honda Fit as a daily driver. I did the math on the cost and mileage difference between the Fit and the Civic std and hybrid. Unless you want to make a 'green' statement, it takes a ton of miles to justify the hybrid. The Fit sport is averaging 32mpg mixed, 41mpg hwy only.

 

...I haven't looked yet, but that's the down side to a hybrid for sure. What is the difference in cost, $4,000 - $5,000? I would have to drive the Civic for 350,000 plus miles to break even...6 years later.

How does the FIT drive?

 

Perhaps a bit of pad rattle against the gas slots or retention clips at light pressure?

The wetness should be looked at soon of course and be certain the 'lower' bleeders are secure but not use for bleeding.

 

I've thought about that Todd. When the new pads and rotors arrive I'll be able to eliminate the gas slots from the equation...I'm pulling both bearings off this weekend to check these. I spoke with Schrooner2 about his vibration a while back and it was a bearing. He confirmed in an email that the typical bearing test did not yield a bad bearing; pulling and puching the wheel at 12 and 6 O:Clock. But, when he removed the bearing there was slop in it.

 

While speaking with Randy Webb today I discussed this with him. He thought that the CV joints might be the casue. with extra negative camber and a lower ride height, these components are stressed beyond design limits. We'll see...