I have a 2005 MCS with about 68k miles on it. I bought it about 2 months ago and after owning it about 2 weeks, it seemed to develop a cold/cool start problem. If I let it sit any more than 30 minutes, it seems to struggle to start (even though it's warm), over night, it takes 3-4 tries to get it to start. When it fails to start, it rocks, misses, and struggles to get going. The weird thing is once I'm able to start it and it idles rough, simply giving it enough gas to go to 2k rpm makes all issues go away for the remainder it's running. Revving the car and immediately shutting it off before I leave it for a few hours seems to help, I'm thinking maybe Injectors?

About 3 weeks ago I swapped plugs, wires, and coil pack (it was rusted on #3), but it hasn't resolved the problem. I've tried fuel injector cleaner, STP complete system cleaner, and I have a bottle of seafoam to try next. I've also tried resetting the ECU. Any help is appreciated.

I recorded it on video, but the audio is a bit off sync. Normally I don't rev it this high to get the issue to go away, but it was struggling and it just picked up.

 

You would really have to pull the codes to help make a guess. I would lean toward the MAP sensors. But the codes would really help.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (TMAP)

Motor on!

 

There are 5 codes in the system:

P0340 - Cam position Sensor (I replaced when I replaced the coil pack)
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire
P2300 - Ignition Coil A (happened when I didn't have the coil pack plugged in after changing it)
P2303 - Ignition Coil B (Didn't have coil pack plugged in after changing it)
P1498 - No idea what this is MAP maybe?

For some reason my Innova 3160 nor my Toque app with a panlong bluetooth ODB2 seems to be able to clear the MINI codes. (they say the do, but don't)

The weird thing is after doing all of my service (cam sensor, valve cover gasket, engine mount, and what I listed above) it ran OK (maybe a little hesitation), but well enough for the CEL to actually go away until about a week ago when it really started having trouble.

 

Sorry, I remember what P1498 was! I didn't have the intercooler boot on all the way when I put it back together and the vacuum was reading low. I fixed it and the CEL went off shortly after.

 

Did you end up finding out what it was? I am having similar issues and have had a P0340 code pop up today as well.

 

Dang, I wish there was a follow up in this one. Same sort of thing for me but not quite as bad as you.

 

Never mind, just read your YouTube comments. For anyone looking for the cause for this one it was a warped cyclindar head.

 

This was caused by a warped head? So was the head gasket blown too? And what did you end up doing to fix it?

 

There are 2 failure modes. One is electronic/controller the other is mechanical. If the car revs to about 3000 rpm and stays there, it is limp home mode (electronic/controller/servo). If the car revs easily to almost redline (1st gear only, and also reverse). It is mechanical. Please read the attached to familiarize yourself with the CVT.

Posted to wrong thread !

 

I'm curious about this too. It doesn't make since that a warped head/bad gasket would all of a sudden fix itself as soon as the motor is revved up a little. Definitely sounds more like an electrical/sensor type issue.

 

I had idle problems & got a code for MAF sensor. I cleaned sensor, cleared code, problem has not come back.

 

Just finished rebuilding mine, now I'm storing her to watch the market. Figure in 20 years my 03 will be worth heaps.

 

? My Mini S is a little rough when I start it.

Maybe it time for a tune since its been 10 years.

 

cooper s crank but wont start

 

mine was a head gasket. I used a endoscope to look im my cylinders after it sit all night. Don't start it just pull the plugs one at a time, and look for small amounts of coolant sitting on the piston, or stuck to the cylinder wall. I tried everything before I happened to check that. It was hard to start, but after it started it ran fine. I was Also having heater problems. Mini's are notorious for the head gaskets failing. It's easy, and fast way to check. I really hope this helps.

 

Always buy oem sensors, especially the cam and crank sensors. They operate at a lower voltage than the others, the battery is in the back, when starting the voltage drop in the engine bay is significant, aftermarket sensors don't work properly with the voltage drop making your car hard to start and or the lights to come on after it starts (traction etc).

 

Posted on wrong thread please delete….

 

Same thing was happening to mine they were the ngk and they would snap in tight but they were no good , put the oem wires back and problem solved

 

CONGRATULATION on your beautiful new MINI Cooper S! The High Class Gray is gorgeous, and you seem to really enjoy driving the little car, which is a blast to drive, by the way, in the city or on the twisties. Your Picasa photo album is a clever way to post all the details without cluttering the post. By the way, I have also found the value in utilizing local resources to service and check on the car, e.g., regular checkups on the car with Metrowest car service, etc. Have you found the car to work well for long trips, or is this a strictly city car for you?