ok, will buy that gasket maker thanks for info.
Mine looks pretty clean, glad i don't have to spend another $$ for s/c

Few questions now.
1. Is there any torq spec on both plates for s/c when i put together?
2. Should I use loctite? when i remove bolts for s/c plates it was too easy and I see some oil around inlet that with green gasket (bottom of waterpump).
afraid bolts get loose as time goes.
http://www.useloctite.com/products/p...cking090e.html
3. s/c fluid to use. I see thread about that, is it right? "waterpump drive side- 2.5oz; nose gear side(pulley side)5.5oz"
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ger-fluid.html

just like to make sure so i don't screw up.
thanks

 

Yes we buy used superchargers. Price pending condition.

E-mail me or call me with what you have available. If
you have any further questions (anybody) fell free to e-mail
me and I will get back with you ASAP. Sometimes I miss
a thread for a while.. there are so many to keep track of.


Charles Judy
Supercharger Technologies
supercharger@excite.com
352-542-0147 Fax: 352-542-9468

 

We don't use thread lock on the main bolts. Always scares
me if you have to take it back apart. If you torque them
down tight they should not come loose. I don't find loose
bolts on these units when we rebuild them (usually). The gears
look good on your unit but how did the 24 tooth gear get pushed
down further on the shaft (we always see them flush with the end
of the shaft)?

Charles
Supercharger Tech.
supercharger@excite.com

 

Has anyone here in CA got this done under the emissions warranty?

I have a client with a 2002 Cooper and the supercharger seized up. The last time we sent a customer to the Mini dealer for a faulty DME the service adviser told them no such warranty (CA emissions warranty) exists even though they showed him the warranty manual in person.

 

That's classic! Dealers are sleazy (in general). It's not so strange for a Service Manager to tell/contradict what's written in the Warranty. I think they get away with it because most customers are uninformed and take it lying down. The Mini owner should contact Mini USA and file a complaint about this. If Mini denies there's such a warranty, I would tell them I'll take it up with the BBB and State Attorney General. See how that goes.

When the Mass Airflow Meter ($400) on my '01 New Beetle died at 48k, a SA at a very good dealer knew nothing about the California Emission Warranty and couldn't get VW HQ on the phone to approve the repair even though the language in the Warranty booklet is very clear... I showed it to him. I had to spend 30 minutes getting through VW Customer Service and they opened a case before the dealer replaced it... $400 part and $90 for analysis & resetting the readiness code on the ECM.

 

Well slap me silly and call me a broke ****. I am the Customer Jon mentioned and UNFORTUNATELY my car was NOT an original CA. Car.

Jon - Joe and I need to talk! Make me a deal!

 

Uh Huh... It must be an original CA registration (as stated in the warranty language).

 

Oh god another expensive issue to add to my list. Owned my 04 for less than an year and everything is falling apart...

I have this noise as well. It's loudest by putting my ear close to the metal tube that connects to the intercooler (what is this part called?).

So how much labor and parts cost are we talking here?

Some people mentioned stiegmeier, but what exactly are they getting done?
http://stiegemeier.com/pricing.html
Mini-Cooper Supercharger Porting and Options: Gain Price Blower Porting Only $395 Front-Drive Rebuild Only $295 Blower Porting Plus Front-Drive Rebuild $595 Front-Drive Rebuild Plus Water Pump Drive Rebuild $795 Blower Porting, Front-Drive Rebuild, and Water Pump Drive Rebuild $895


I also read that this rattle has been eliminated by some by only doing a snout rebuid. Hmm...

 

I'm posting here to give a thumbs-up to Supercharger Technologies. $550.00 to rebuild both ends of the unit (including new water pump gears), and they finished the job the same day they received the supercharger! They even took the time to smooth out a couple of chips in the rotor coatings that I noticed when I took the unit off the car. Very good communication as well. I put the rebuilt unit on my '03 S and have had absolutely no problems since.

 

Sounds like you got a great deal on the rebuild.

 

So what do you listen for when the S/C is playing its music. I just got a stethoscope for this purpose.

 

The noise is not quiet: I could hear the chewing of the gears from in the cabin and outside of the car. It was that way for several months before I had it taken care of.

 

After removing the supercharger from my 2004 MINI (50K miles) and changing the oil, I now have a lot more noise and the engine runs very rough. The noise appears to be coming from the output of the supercharger, The oil levels and gears where find. The vanes had some end play, but the feflon coating was good. What could I have screwed up? I am driving my 1987 Toyota Supra (20 MPG & not near as much fun)while Tinker Toy is sick. HELP !!!!! THANKS Ed Burberry-burberrye@bellsouth.net

 

Any possibility that you overfilled it with oil? If there's more than just enough for the bottom gear to dip into and sling around, it will literally beat itself to death with oil...

 

I put 2.5 oz of GM supercharger oil in the water pump end and 5.5 oz in the pulley end. Is this correct? Thanks
Ed Burberry

 

How many miles does the supercharger/waterpump generally have from when people first notice the gear-crunching noise to total gear failure (waterpump seizure)?

 

I went for at least 25,000 miles before replacing the supercharger/water pump. Probably even more than 30,000 miles. More than a year of high mileage highway driving. It never actually failed.

 

Mine failed (seized) while still under warranty, at approximately 16K. I had noticed the noise for a few thousand miles.

 

Here someone says they only needed 1.5oz on the pump end:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post2877245

 

So does anyone know how much oil a mini SC actually takes?

If I remember correctly, one of the early pages in this thread stated 4oz. on the PTO/pump end.

So what are the real specs?

 

[





I know it might be easier to access the the drain/fill plugs by taking the car apart, but is it necessary? Seems like a really LONG process. Is a GM product the only product out there for the SC? To do this at every oil change seems excessive. I would think RedLine or Royal Purple would make this as well and it should last longer. What do you think?

 

Our shop puts 6oz in the front cone and 4 oz in the PTO.

 

Thanks AutoX.

DMB, you shouldn't have to take the front that far apart. Bumper/bumper support, then just slide and tilt the MFE (modular front end) forward. It leaves enough room to work and only takes around 20 minutes if you've done it before. I'm sure those other companies make supercharger oil as well. If I remember correctly someone mentioned using some synthetic Redline supercharger oil. It looks like a lot of people have even started making their own service plugs in the top of the PTO cover. Then all they have to do is remove the intercooler.

 

On fleebay someone is selling helicopter oil for cheap .Its supposed to be da kine

 

Key words "suppose to be". Maybe if we knew the viscosity of the SC fluid in comparison to the helocopter fluid. I think I read somewhere that the SC fluid was 50w but then again I have been known to be wrong.

Does Redline or Royal Purple (anyone for that matter) make a coolant additive to increase the effectiveness of the oil? I would imagine that it gets pretty hot in the sc and the oil takes a toll in that much heat.

Also, does anyone know of aftermarket parts that would make the changing of the SC oil easier/quicker/cleaner? Since the amount in the SC is not that much, maybe a large syringe with a hose attached to it? Just a thought.