Well glad to hear that the knocking noise disappeared when you pushed in your clutch. Did it continue to stay quiet after you released the clutch pedal?

I'm also an Audi guy, btw. I had a nautical blue 1988 5000CS Quattro at one point in time...it's one of few cars from my past that I wish I never got rid of. I would have killed to have a '91 200 20v...can't imagine how much fun that would be as my 5000 was a sleeper and a kick in the pants as it was!

 

It seemed quieter, but it did come back when I released the pedal. The sound goes away as soon as the car is warmed up though

 

Ok Hi guys, looks like I've got a problem on my hands

I had this rattle for months thought it was nothing until my brother got a loaner cooper and started it up next to mine, that thing was dead silent compared to my 2006 Cooper S automatic.

I have about 53k miles on my car. In my last srv visit they said I need to come back soon cos it sounds like a bearing is loose or something in my water pump.. and it could potentially lead to other problems ie. supercharger but that is worse case scenario. I am not 21 yet so they would not provide me with a loaner whereas I turn 21 next month, I figured... I sat with the uneventful problem this long and I could just go in to get the part replaced next month and drive home happily

Well the blizzard hit the east coast yesterday and apparently that was the defining factor for my car. The chatter was very prominent when I picked up my girlfriend at her house (10 min into driving), she pointed it out (which means something!!) when I asked if anything felt strange. Ok so 2 miles down the road I notice my temp guage is nearing 200 and I knew that was NO GOOD so I pulled over and let the car cool down in the snow until I could cruise home. Popped the hood, sort of saw some smoke coming from where the battery compartment is... almost as if it was rising from the silver plate. I dismissed it as heat condensation because the hood was popped and it was snowing. When I turned it on the sound seemed to be mostly gone, the car was silent and sounded as if it was running ok... but I knew it was not. Supercharger whine sounded clear....so I was like ok thank god that is still in tact. Then the rattle came back for a second or two when I was on my street. So now I am left with an immobile car that has to be towed to the dealership in the middle of winter. I am afraid to even turn it on again to see if my temp guage goes up-

I am out of warranty because of my miles obviously so I am left with a few options. I have had a bunch of small but very annoying problems with this car... soft glass cracking on its own started at belt line-- dealer said it was my fault, a pillar exploding, rattles, electrical problems, etc. you know them all; yet I still love it as if it were the day I bought it. I really cannot be bothered with such a car though that I have to pay for year after year on little problems, hundreds at a time, when I expected this thing to last me at least well over 100k, I love the car but I am starting to feel like I am getting ripped off. Enthusiast car doesnt and shouldnt mean 'deal with it'.. and of course problems happen, but the only modification on my car is a cold air intake. So if these repairs end up being over 1000 I may have to get a new car sooner than expected because it simply just doesnt make sense to repair this car with such stupid problems going on. I thought that 2006 meant all the problems are WORKED OUT??? I put a lot of time & love into my car as do a lot of us and unfortunately a lot of stress comes with that. What I want to know is... am I going to get raped at the dealership for this common problem? What to expect? Are there 3rd party vendors that make superior/upgraded/faster products than OEM? Should I not let them go thru with whatever they want to do when they diagnose my problem at the dealership? I dont really trust them to be honest. They wanted 800 to replace my windshield once (no sensors or anything special) and I ended up getting done at some run of the mill place for 195 plus tip.

edit: whats all this im reading about oil not being able to be changed/replaced unless you put the car in "service mode"??? I put the front of the car on two ramps and although it was tedious and tight, the oil was successfully replaced.

 

Not sure that I know the right words to say to alieviate the frustration of your post - I absolutely do understand it, though...

First, you have a '06 S and the battery is under the hood? (I was certain that all R53's had the battery in the back.)

Second, I found that noises in the engine compartment can be tricky to trace, based on the "layers" of components in such a compact space. That said, if a MINI tech says that the water pump is bad, and then you overheated, it's time for a replacement (assuming the front wasn't packed w/ snow or iced over from the storm). If you're up for it, pick up another water pump and go to work on the car - it's tedious to replace, but do-able for anybody with a medium level of mechanical skills (spend the time to save the money, if you know what I mean). Shop around for the part, and the info (here) and "jump in".

A worst case would be the PTO drive on the back of the s/c went bad, but cross that bridge when you come to it. The up-side(s) of doing it yourself, besides the personal satisfaction, is all the related or connected stuff (repairs or maintenance) you can do while you're in there, and you know what got done and how well.

Where are you located? There may be somebody close who can give some "support"...

 

Was thinking this through w/ Thompson (TSR53) at the mtg the other night, then remembered that mine did the same thing from the time I bought it in Oct. '07 w/ 47k on it - louder (slightly) as the temps got colder, "went away" when the car or temps warmed up. Funny thing (for me) is that the noise is gone now that I've replaced the alternator, and nothing else. I was convinced I was listening to the death of a throw-out bearing. Maybe coincidence? Still willing to give a listen when you're in the neighborhood...

 

I am from NJ and sorry I didnt mean the actual battery, it was just this little box that clips on to the side of the cai intake wall and has a batt. +/- sign on it

 

OK, thanks for that ...

Is it some thing you're thinking of trying, or you having it towed, or ??? Keep us posted

 

Tekron - that would be the battery jump post ... in case you need a jump to get started.

T

 

Yeah my bad. I've never had to jump start my car, just charge it (but used the battery contacts in the boot). Always found em a bit strangely placed since the battery was in the boot.

I am probably going to call my dealership today/tomorrow (since im @ work). On the upside of things, the more I am thinking about it I am just very grateful I was where I was at the time of the overheating and I am happy that my car is at home. I am most likely going to get it towed because I can just get it towed straight to my dealer, have them inspect the car and report on the car for me and when it's ready I can just pick her up. I could fill the car up with fluid and try to pin point the leak if any because when I peered into the coolant tank the fluid level seemed a bit low... Wonder if there's a leak somewhere?????
Sidenote: I went to get my car serviced last summer for something completely unrelated, I think a fan or gasket or something was replaced after a 28 point check-- went to work the next day noticed my car was making weird noises; look into my bonnet to find fluid EVERYWHERE and I look into my engine bay... all over. I emailed a pic from my phone immediately to my service advisor who was very helpful and shocked among other things-- and it seems they made a wee bit mistake putting my car back together w/ hose clamps. Honest mistake, I let it slide, but still wanted it noted..

Not having a car/MINI is the absolute worst feeling and it couldn't have come at a worse time. Gulp..
I'd order a replacement water pump to expedite the process but I'm not sure how much quicker it would actually make it. Also I'm not sure if it's actually bad yet... as of my last visit my Service advisor said that it sounded like a bearing/fan bearing so I am going to hope for the least expensive thing at this point. Also, I hope it's worked with under warranty. No matter what, positive experience or not Ill post back here.

Here's to hoping Stella is on her feet by the end of the week, wish me luck guys and thanks for hearing me rant!

 

...and losing a day (or more) this week doesn't help either, eh?

Happy Holidays!

 

Get this, they never showed up yesterday to pick up my car!

 

Hello,
I have an 2004 MCS, purchased new in Oct 2003. Like most owners it is a pain but I still love Max, not sure why. I do 100% of all repairs and there are always pending items. My question.
Current mileage 141000km (86ooomiles) stock car my daily driver
SC seems ok, but after reading the posts I want to buy a used SC and have it rebuilt it and on the shelf. What MCS years use the same SC. Iam guessing 2002-2005 are all the same, but that is a guess.
Thanks for your help
Cheers Phil
Carlisle, Ontario, Canada

 

I would be Leary of buying an SC to just sit on till you need it. The Risk is the seals will dry out if not stored right or for too long and you'll install it and end up needing it rebuilt sooner then later. There are many SC's running over, well over, 100K without issue. I'd encourage you to do this, https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...D95C01C6FBF8F9 sooner then later and be sure to measure how much comes out of the PTO. If less then 2 oz you may have a bad seal and need a rebuild.

 

Hello AutoXCooper,
I have a rebuilt ac compressor sitting on my bench, so doing the service on the SC at the same time will not be to bad. I guess the only part I did not want to bother with is removing the SC to check fluid amount, but I guess I had better do it, if I want to really know the status of my SC. Your service shop looks good, again my concern is the down time should it stop working.
If I seal a SC in a air tight bag, would that not keep the unit fresh and ready.
Can you tell me what years of SC will fit on my MCS, still thinking about your advice and what to do besides the oil service
Thanks
Phil
Carlisle, Ontario Canada

 

The service will give you a good idea of how yours is now and could be done at home in an afternoon or day with a long lunch. If I was going to store a SC it would be kept inside in a dry place to limit the temp change that those of us in winter land see.

 

All s' have basiclly the same SC. The differance is that the 05's and newer has an coating on the rotors\supercharger that makes it seal more tightly, and reduces tempture transfer. I am not sure if any of the rebuilders will guarentee that you get the same type (coated) SC back, if you give them a coated one. Everybody wants the coated ones, all other things beaing equal. Some rebuilders will re-coat rotors for an upcharge with a coating that has similar charistics as the Eaton coating.

 

Isn't the coating just teflon, which reduces friction (or improves airflow>?

 

Some coatings are ablative....meaning that it is actually a bit rubbery, insulative, and wears in to form a seal.....that is what the Eaton OEM coating is. Many aftermarket coatings are more of a Teflon paint....functional I guess, might be the only way to do on a small scale...as for it effectivness....who knows. MINI did up the hp ratings on cars that got the coating. That, combined with the improved gearing is what has helped to make the 05+ cars a bit faster.

 

The oil that is part of the discussion in this thread in in two locations...both in the supercharger. The supercharger has oil in the snout (by the pulley), and in the water pump gears, a location unique to the MINI's supercharger. If the oil leaks from either of these two locations, the superchrger fails rapidly.....making a death rattle, sort of like a chain dragging sound. Eaton, who makes the supercharger, generaly recomends that the oil in the snount be changed in their products at a set interval during their life. Mini says it is not required. Hense, the conterversy. Also many mini have a premature failure to the oil seal where the water pump connects to the supercharger, resulting in dammage to the waterpump gears, and supercharger. To access these parts the car must be put in full service mode.

 

Thanks guys, for the quick question response. Informative thread.

Cheers Phil

 

How frequent does everyone think this is happening? My supercharger is in need of replacement, and I'm kinda pissed.

Can we all demand a recall?

 

Wow, did you readn any of this thread? It's not going to be recalled, it's a wear item just like a starter, alternator, etc.

 

Only if you have the US Armed Forces behind you.

Sorry mate!!

 

lol.....when a guy looses a supercharger with less than maybe 50,000 miles and 5 years, I feel real sorry for the person. But the facts are that a supercharger is a wear item. Eaton reccomend the supercharge have the oil changed/refilled every 5 years in non-mini application, but in the mini, due to the fact that changing the oil takes 9 or so hours of labor, it is gerneraly more costeffective to run the unit till replacement. That beaing said, it should last 5+ years and 110,000 miles or so. The extended warenety that CA sold cars get, 75,000 miles, due to CAB's involvement seems to be fair.
IMO we should all budget for an overhall every 6-8 years and 110,000 miles...and do a waterpump at the same time. It is regular matainance, like a timing belt/waterpump on a Honda or toyoda....

 

Where is a good place to get one? There is no way I will buy one from a dealer! or get a refurbished SC. What about other parts like a H2O pump, PS unit etc... Aftermarket items that have been tweaked a little in order to extend life or provide more power is the way to go if it is going to take 9 hours to replace a SC.