Rattle : Supercharger / water pump
definatly not 50 weight. probably close to 5W,at least thats what came out of mine and went back in. the other oil that i have heard of comes from GM for their blowers which are made by the same american company . yes your super charger was made with a SAE allen wrench fill plug. I got a big suringe with my rebuid kit but i did not even use it.S/C on the table its easy to fill right out of the bottle.I replaced my coupler at the same time (old one had a bunch of hair line cracks) 60k I was just in time for replacing it.There is a good thread on replacing the oil right here on nam.
Supercharger oil by Redline and Royal Purple
Ok, this throws a small wrench in the supercharger issue. I just received this email from RedLine:
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in your Eaton supercharger I would recommend the PowerSteering Fluid.
Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil
Could it be that simple?
Here is an email from Royal Purple that I just received:
The GM fluid you referenced is a PAG (polyalkalene glycol) based; flushing completely is necessary. The Royal Purple Synchromax (part #01512, quart bottle) is the way to go. It is an ISO 32 grade fluid with a solid anti-wear additive package, a high viscosity index and excellent oxidative properties.
Please note that a complete and thorough flushing is absolutely necessary because the glycol-based fluids and other mineral or synthetic-based fluids are not compatible.
We recommend 3 to 4 complete changes of oil as a flush. Procedures would be to drain the current fluid from the supercharger and refill with fresh Royal Purple. Start the engine and allow to idle (in Park or Neutral) until the engine is up to running temperature. Turn off the engine and repeat this sequence until the new oil looks clear with no contaminants (generally 3 to 4 times). I believe your supercharger is only going to require about 4 – 6 ounces of fluid, so the quart bottle should cover the flush and final fill.
Thanks for choosing Royal Purple and have a great day.
Best Regards,
Chris
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in your Eaton supercharger I would recommend the PowerSteering Fluid.
Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil
Could it be that simple?

Here is an email from Royal Purple that I just received:
The GM fluid you referenced is a PAG (polyalkalene glycol) based; flushing completely is necessary. The Royal Purple Synchromax (part #01512, quart bottle) is the way to go. It is an ISO 32 grade fluid with a solid anti-wear additive package, a high viscosity index and excellent oxidative properties.
Please note that a complete and thorough flushing is absolutely necessary because the glycol-based fluids and other mineral or synthetic-based fluids are not compatible.
We recommend 3 to 4 complete changes of oil as a flush. Procedures would be to drain the current fluid from the supercharger and refill with fresh Royal Purple. Start the engine and allow to idle (in Park or Neutral) until the engine is up to running temperature. Turn off the engine and repeat this sequence until the new oil looks clear with no contaminants (generally 3 to 4 times). I believe your supercharger is only going to require about 4 – 6 ounces of fluid, so the quart bottle should cover the flush and final fill.
Thanks for choosing Royal Purple and have a great day.
Best Regards,
Chris
Last edited by DMBFan2; Oct 21, 2009 at 11:57 AM. Reason: Update
I came across this article: https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...er+Oil+Service
and thought that it might help. However,I am not certain as to which engine is a W11 as the article mentions. I am assuming all 02-06's are W11's.
Abstract: This article describes 2002-2006 MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service.
Applies to: MINI Cooper S: 2004-2006
Use the following procedure to check and top up Supercharger oil (W11 engine).
W11 engine supercharger has two oil reservoirs. One on the front of the super charger below the drive pulley. One on the rear behind the water pump. Each is covered separately.
MINI W11 engine uses an Eaton supercharger. MINi does not recommend oil services, therefore no oil is available through MINI parts. General Motors uses a similiar Eaton supercharger and their oil can be substituted. GM Part numer 12345982.

Supercharger front oil reservoir, oil checking (W11 engine)
2002-2006 MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/x/AgDsAQ
and thought that it might help. However,I am not certain as to which engine is a W11 as the article mentions. I am assuming all 02-06's are W11's.
Abstract: This article describes 2002-2006 MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service.
Applies to: MINI Cooper S: 2004-2006
Use the following procedure to check and top up Supercharger oil (W11 engine).
W11 engine supercharger has two oil reservoirs. One on the front of the super charger below the drive pulley. One on the rear behind the water pump. Each is covered separately.
MINI W11 engine uses an Eaton supercharger. MINi does not recommend oil services, therefore no oil is available through MINI parts. General Motors uses a similiar Eaton supercharger and their oil can be substituted. GM Part numer 12345982.
Supercharger front oil reservoir, oil checking (W11 engine)
- Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
- Oil should run out of supercharger when fill plug is removed. If it does not, fill oil reservoir until oil starts to run out of fill hole. (arrow)

- Reinstall plug and tighten.
- Remove water pump. See 170 Radiator and Cooling System.
- Using a 3/16 allen wrench remove oil fill plug (arrow).
Supercharger removed from vehicle for clarity
- Oil level should run out of supercharger when plug is removed. If it does not, fill oil reservoir until oil starts to run out of fill hole. (arrow)

- Reinstall plug and tighten.
2002-2006 MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/x/AgDsAQ
Thanks for the info, everybody
Redline: wow, that's out of the question - drain/fill/run 3-4 times?
yeah, right. IMHO it's not that special. Looks like "GM parts counter" here I come...
No noise from the supercharger, mine was from the alternator bearings being shot, but it sure did put a
into me. And since I've got 68K and the front is apart for the alternator R&R, the time is right...
Things we do to keep these special little cars happy, eh?
Redline: wow, that's out of the question - drain/fill/run 3-4 times?
yeah, right. IMHO it's not that special. Looks like "GM parts counter" here I come...No noise from the supercharger, mine was from the alternator bearings being shot, but it sure did put a
into me. And since I've got 68K and the front is apart for the alternator R&R, the time is right...Things we do to keep these special little cars happy, eh?
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From: Car Nut Since 1987, Owner Since Fall 2005, Vendor Since Fall 2007
you do need to remove the SC to change the oil. Our shop is working on modding the SC we rebuild to allow you to change the oil without removing the SC. More about that when we work out the test units.
--AutoX (and anyone else with an in-depth knowledge base)
Does it sound strange that Redline suggested to exchange the GM SC fluid with their Power steering fluid? Redline is a reliable product but putting their PS fluid in exchange of GM SC fluid?
What about the suggestion proposed by Royal Purple? Using their Synchromax fluid in exchange for the GM SC fluid?
The lack of explanation by Redline as to WHY to use their PS fluid has me wondering if that representative is just blowing smoke because he/she has no idea.
However the in-depth answer provided by R.P. has me curious and wondering if replacing the GM product with the R.P product might be a good idea.
I am trying to find a better alternative to using a GM SC product. Just like any type of oil there are the good ones and there are the best ones. Is this true for SC's also?If the oil should be replaced every 50k miles and the car taken apart, then the BEST SC fluid should be used.
Any suggestions?
Does it sound strange that Redline suggested to exchange the GM SC fluid with their Power steering fluid? Redline is a reliable product but putting their PS fluid in exchange of GM SC fluid?

What about the suggestion proposed by Royal Purple? Using their Synchromax fluid in exchange for the GM SC fluid?
The lack of explanation by Redline as to WHY to use their PS fluid has me wondering if that representative is just blowing smoke because he/she has no idea.

However the in-depth answer provided by R.P. has me curious and wondering if replacing the GM product with the R.P product might be a good idea.
I am trying to find a better alternative to using a GM SC product. Just like any type of oil there are the good ones and there are the best ones. Is this true for SC's also?If the oil should be replaced every 50k miles and the car taken apart, then the BEST SC fluid should be used.
Any suggestions?
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From: Car Nut Since 1987, Owner Since Fall 2005, Vendor Since Fall 2007
All I can say is we use the GM SC fluid. The primary issue in the M45 is a seal that sits between the PTO and the rotors. The OEM seal breaks down and allows the SC to suck the PTO dry, there's only 3 onces in the PTO gear box, and then the trouble starts. We replace that seal with a racing spring loaded seal to give the SC longer life.
just read this thread top to bottom and I'm a bit worried.... There's a knocking sound from what seems like the driver's side of the motor. Thought it might be the super charger, but now I'm not sure... Time to make a video and then let you guys help me out!
Here's a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1j4k26AVPk
2004 Cooper S 58k miles, give me your worst.
No mods!!
2004 Cooper S 58k miles, give me your worst.
No mods!!
Casey, If you are around north of Burlington this weekend, swing by my garage and I can give it a listen and diagnosis. PM for location, maybe Dave can buzz over and lend his ear too? A friend who own's a 2005 R53 had their supercharger go out at 14k miles or so. Of course it was covered under warranty, but I do remember the sounds.
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From: Car Nut Since 1987, Owner Since Fall 2005, Vendor Since Fall 2007
Have you check the oil level and coolant of the motor? With only 58K the SC is not the 1st thing I'd check. The Bypass valve might be stuck. Then I'd check the water pump. If you can get a cheap auto stethoscope at local parts store and try to isolate the sound. Be sure to search NAM for the by pass issue it's common and your at the right mileage for it. Nice video too.
Other stuff you can check: alternator, belt tensioner pulley. I've had these two items go out on other vehicles I've owned, and they produced the exact whirring noise as shown in the video...
Doesn't sound like mine did, but ?? - like TSR53, willing to take a look/listen - whereabouts in Burlington? (pm me details?)
Not sure of your schedule, I'll be at the Sports Car Club of Vermont meeting at Zachary's on Williston Rd @ 7pm Tuesday - you're welcome to stop by...
Not sure of your schedule, I'll be at the Sports Car Club of Vermont meeting at Zachary's on Williston Rd @ 7pm Tuesday - you're welcome to stop by...
Last edited by DaveVT02S; Dec 14, 2009 at 07:40 PM.
Hey thanks for the quick replies guys. I wasn't planning on being around this weekend, I'm headed to NH to spend my birthday on Sunday with my girlfriend (soon to be fiance, but don't tell her!).
The whirring sound wasn't my main concern, but there's a rather rapid knocking sound which seems to be at the right rhythm for the supercharger but I'd rather have someone with experience check this out. It shows up only when it's a cold start up, and the colder it is outside the louder it is. It then gets quieter as the car warms up but it seems to come from the driver's side....I'm an Audi guy so this whole MINI deal is very new to me!
....And I thought Audis were quirky
TSR53 - Do you guys do warranty work?
The whirring sound wasn't my main concern, but there's a rather rapid knocking sound which seems to be at the right rhythm for the supercharger but I'd rather have someone with experience check this out. It shows up only when it's a cold start up, and the colder it is outside the louder it is. It then gets quieter as the car warms up but it seems to come from the driver's side....I'm an Audi guy so this whole MINI deal is very new to me!
....And I thought Audis were quirky

TSR53 - Do you guys do warranty work?
Something else I forgot to mention...does the knocking noise go away if you push and hold the clutch pedal down? Mine occasionally makes a strange knocking noise when it's cold (like 8*F) and pressing on the clutch pedal makes it go away. If I'm lucky, the noise will continue to stay away once I've taken my foot off the clutch pedal. The noise my car makes only seems to show up first thing in the morning after being parked overnight in cold weather...
Something else I forgot to mention...does the knocking noise go away if you push and hold the clutch pedal down? Mine occasionally makes a strange knocking noise when it's cold (like 8*F) and pressing on the clutch pedal makes it go away. If I'm lucky, the noise will continue to stay away once I've taken my foot off the clutch pedal. The noise my car makes only seems to show up first thing in the morning after being parked overnight in cold weather...
hehe gotcha, thanks!! I need a new radiator too... grr
and I was unable to open either door a week ago and had to climb out the window
and the rear hatch didn't work when i got it
and it takes 5+ seconds of cranking to start it
but for some reason I like it
Hey thanks for the quick replies guys. I wasn't planning on being around this weekend, I'm headed to NH to spend my birthday on Sunday with my girlfriend (soon to be fiance, but don't tell her!).
The whirring sound wasn't my main concern, but there's a rather rapid knocking sound which seems to be at the right rhythm for the supercharger but I'd rather have someone with experience check this out. It shows up only when it's a cold start up, and the colder it is outside the louder it is. It then gets quieter as the car warms up but it seems to come from the driver's side....I'm an Audi guy so this whole MINI deal is very new to me!
....And I thought Audis were quirky
TSR53 - Do you guys do warranty work?
The whirring sound wasn't my main concern, but there's a rather rapid knocking sound which seems to be at the right rhythm for the supercharger but I'd rather have someone with experience check this out. It shows up only when it's a cold start up, and the colder it is outside the louder it is. It then gets quieter as the car warms up but it seems to come from the driver's side....I'm an Audi guy so this whole MINI deal is very new to me!
....And I thought Audis were quirky

TSR53 - Do you guys do warranty work?
. Sorry can't support warranty work.I do own a 1995 Audi S6 20v'er in my garage right next to my R53. It's my ninth Audi quattro (owned two ur-quattros in there) and know your love for Audi's runs deep. I started the New England quattro club back in 1995.
Like Dave said, drop by tonight at the Sports Car Club of Vermont meeting and we can put our ears on it for you.
Also, if you let the clutch out slowly the throwout bearing won't make any noise as opposed to if you let it out quickly. The video is good, but best to have several sets of R53 owner's ears on this to properly diagnose.

Pushing in the clutch this morning got rid of the faint knocking sound so that makes me feel a ton better. I don't have any of that egg beater sound coming from the sc.
I would stop by the meeting, but unfortunately I work during the week in Clinton, NY near Utica and only make the trip home in Burlington every other weekend or so.
I really thank you and have a deep respect for the knowledge and willingness to help that I'm getting here - hats off to you guys!
I bought this car to me my 'reliable dd' while I build my 200 20v the way I've been dreaming of for many years. I have it all torn down, but I've gotten a couple of scares already with the MINI so I've been reluctant to move forward with that project. I tell you though, going home each day and seeing that GT35/40 just sitting there waiting is driving me crazy
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From: Car Nut Since 1987, Owner Since Fall 2005, Vendor Since Fall 2007
Hey Casey, Happy B-day and congrats on the getting a Bride too
If it is the clutch, dump the dual mass and get a single mass system.
If it is the clutch, dump the dual mass and get a single mass system.



