Hey so I have a 2008 R56 base/ non turbo 150k miles. Last week I noticed a clicking in the passenger foot well fuse box when putting the key in and starting. Only happens when key is in and trying to start. At first just a noise started and ran fine. Friday it took me 30 minutes to get it started besides the clicking, it almost sounds like the starter is not fully engaging or clicking as well. Yesterday NO start at all and today fired right up a couple times. I have a video of the noise which I'll try and post. I have watched and read a to and hope it isn't the control box issue in the dash. I think it's either the starter, fuse panel, relay, or the control box in the dash.

I have tried or looked at the following
.- I have a new starter OTW just in case

Grounding strap looks great.
Battery tested fine
No funky light or other issue popping up key always works and runs great once started. I do have a check engine light on for the cam position sensor but fixing that another time.

Any idea what to try next besides the starter swap? It comes Friday.

https://youtube.com/shorts/RoZih9t-nIc?si=ze2HLb72ms5QulEJ

 

 

Yep ... been there; done that. It's probably your CAS module. You need a scan tool that will check all the car's modules. You've probably got at least four DTCs stored in the CAS. One indicating a failed CAS module and three more for failures in thee separate power circuits. I've experience CAS module failures in my '07 335i and my '12 Cooper S. The only problem with the MINIs is the CAS lives under the dash board, so it's a PITA to get to.

 

Is there any resolution to this?

Peter

 

This is a long shot, but I will tell you my experience. I have a 2009 MCS with 70K miles. I started getting the intermittent clicking from the FRM when starting the car. Rarely the car wouldn't start, but I was getting amber brake and DSC lights and had a number of
ABS codes. At first, this did not happen every time, but eventually it did, I could clear the codes, but it would come back. Funny thing is I could clear the codes while the engine was running, and they would NOT come back till I did a shut down and restart. IF I disconnected the battery for an hour or so, usually things would be fine for several starts, only to come back again. Other thing I noticed was that if I inserted the key fob in the slot, I would get the clicking BEFORE I even pressed the start button. This led me to believe it had nothing to do with the CAS, FRM, or ECU, since it made no sense for the codes NOT to come back. I know this doesn't make sense, but I changed the battery in my key fob. I cleared all the codes and then disconnected the battery for an hour. This was about 2 weeks ago.

I have started the car maybe 30 times since, and no clicking, no start issues, and no warning lights or codes. I think the battery if weak, still allows things to sorta work, but doesn't keep a solenoid closed until the START sequence has run its course. I may be wrong, but the only thing I did differently was to change the fob battery...a cheap fix.

 

This is a classic CAS module failure scenario. Disconnecting the battery also worked when my BMW was sending me the Morris Code messages via the relay, but after 1-2 weeks the clicking would come back. Again, scan the CAS module for codes. I found a guy in Houston that can help. You send him your CAS and one key. He'll write your CAS info to another CAS and ship it back. He also backs up the new CAS module for 1 year. I think the cost was $400.00

 

Info please.

 

Text Ali at 832 581 seven four 87; he's in Houston.
Shipping address will be:
Ali Bakhshi
5426 Tuglow Ravine Trl
Katy Tx 77449-6441

BMWminiecurepair.com/cas-repairs

I've used him twice; super fast service and after his programs your CAS he ships it out the same day.

Right at the 1 year mark, the CAS that he shipped me S#it the bed (CAS DTCs and relay clicking again); he replaced it at no cost. He also got me a new CAS for the 2012 MIIN Cooper S I restored.

Ali will want to know what codes are in your CAS module. OBTW the get 2 MINI CAS module is a PITA to get to. You don't have to pull the whole dash board out of the car, but the tailing edge (edge closest to the driver) will have to be pulled up to the module; it right in front of the steering wheel under the dash board. Again, before you go to all that work; scan the car and make sure you have DTCs stored under the CAS module heading. In both of my cases; I had the dreaded CAS failure "Internal module failure."

 

simple issue. It's the Starter relays in the passenger side footwell modules. They have to be removed and soldered back in. They are about $8 a piece but you have to order direct from China. TC1 110 is what they are called. Clicking, windows going up or down? Failure to start and lastly, the tail lights staying on after you remove the key and power the car off. AutoCircuitSolutions on ebay fixed mine because I don't solder. They can also fix the dreaded fuel pump relay as well. However, they dont have the TC1 110 relays in stock and must order them yourself and send with the circuit board.