Where can i find the correct torque settings, for screwing different parts of a 2008 R56S Mini with the correct tightness?
For example screwing the spark plugs.

 

Hello,

I have a 2009 MCS. Sometimes, folks post pages from Mimi Mainteance manual. Below is what I have in my notes for spark plug information:

Tool: 14mm 12 point deep well socket
spark plug Electrode Gap, preset: 0.8mm (0.032")
spark plug torque: 23 +3 Nm or 17+-2 ft-lb ( for Gen 2 MINIs(R55 R56 R57 R58 R59 R60 R61)

Regards,

W

 

BMW TIS is the factory service repair database and has all this information. You can buy a subscription to access it.

Or, if you download BMW standard tools and the appropriate Daten files for your car you can find the TIS information in ISTA-D.
If you plan on doing most of the repair work on your car this might be a better option because it will also give you diagnostic capability if you connect your computer to the car with an appropriate cable.

 

Terribly sorry but my English are not native and i do need to clear out some stuff.
1. I cant find any info regarding the SparkPlugs in the Maintenance manual... any clue at what page i should have a look at?
2. Regarding the Tool, what do the 14mm and the 12point refer to, so i can have a look at what exactly i will order.
3. Regarding the Torque settings, can you plz clarify what exactly 23+3 and 17+-2 ft-lb mean?

 

Tool: 14mm 12 point deep well socket - this is a special deep wall socket for our spark plugs https://www.ecstuning.com/b-cta-tool...t/cta2376~cta/ this was the cheapest one they had, got mine off Amazon
spark plug torque: 23 +3 Nm or 17+-2 ft-lb = This is the torque that you want to set your wrench at, +- part refers to the fact that not everyone has a calibrated torque wrench so get it as close as you can

as for newtis.info if you would like a free account, send me your email address, i can invite people for free.

 

BTW, the Haynes repair manual for the Mini has torque settings, and is adequate for less-ambitious projects. I wouldn't want to rebuild an engine with it.....

Mine was $10 on Ebay.

 

From Haynes Repair Manual

 

https://haynes.com/en-us/mini/cooper-s/2002-2013

Haynes is shifting from printed books to an online service, but you can still buy a book that covers GEN1 and 2 for $25 US

the book says thru '13 .... but that just means when it was printed .... it should cover most general stuff for any GEN2 . . .

editorial:

people constantly poo poo the Haynes manuals on this site .... I offer two comments

1. I own a classic too and for classic owners the Haynes IS the go to manual for most .... I have the factory service manuals and use the Haynes more often.

2. Using only the Haynes for GEN1 MINI I find I am the one who can answer questions WAY more often .... SELDOM do I see a Bentley manual owner chime in ..... WHY? I dunno ...... Unwilling to share info they paid so much for???? I did not say NEVER but IMO I probably have a 5 to 1 advantage.

SO WHAT?

Try HAYNES ... it costs less and you will probably find what you need!!

 

got mine 20 bucks shipped Amazon, also somehow got an account on Newtis, if I can’t find it between those, the a search here most likely will do. YouTube also has been a huge help, Project Mini is pretty good for an r56 and he throws torques in there as well. I do have a friend that has a Bentley manual if I “had” to go that route, but he’s 4 hrs away.

 

There have been reports here and elsewhere that there are differences between printed media and newtis/ISTA torque values.

Also, torque values may differ according to engine and/or production date.

The latter does not apply to R56 spark plug torque, as already reported above, the correct torque is 23 +/- 3 Nm (N12, N14, N16 and N18 engines).

Note that BMW/MINI dictates using a u-joint on the R56 engines (in order to avoid breaking the spark plugs).

PS: I got a Kunzer 7ZKE14 Bi-HEX SW14 socket in Germany for less than € 10,-. One has to take care not to "lock" it while working on the plugs, though.

 

How can the spark plugs break, while trying to remove them? Unscrewing them is pretty simple when having a wrench and the correct socket, isn't it?

 

I haven’t had any issues with just an extension on the correct socket. I change my plugs every year, just don’t rush things and you should be fine.

 

This is what BMW states, quote:
"Flexible ratchet extensions must always be used. If rigid mounting tools are used, there is a risk of insulator breakages.
Also do not use a variable plug connection with locking capability as this also poses a risk of insulator breakages."

I agree with Jason that if one is careful, the risk is minimal. The risk is higher when removing a stuck plug due to the lateral forces acting when the plug suddenly comes loose.

The risk of damage when removing plugs is of course irrelevant if new plugs are to be inserted anyway. Not so, if the plugs are removed for inspection only.

 

Once I have broke the torque on the plugs, I try to use just my extension and socket to loosen and remove. I have seen people just keep the ratchet on there and keep going till it’s loose. Going back in, I place a plug in socket and very careful insert back in the head, tightened by hand without the ratchet till it stops, then get out trusty torque wrench to finish. If you are worried about cross threading turn the spark plug counter clockwise, slowly, till you feel it drop, then turn clockwise and torque.