Wondered if anyone knows Torque specs for spark plugs? NGK.

 

23 FTlbs, I have had them break at 25 FTlbs!

I like to tighten them to 20, start the car and let it warm up to opperating temp for about 15 minutes, then go back through and add the extra 3 pounds.

 

Do you use anti seize on yours? Thx for the info

 

I've always used silver antisieze on mine. I'd also like to know if this is correct...

 

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. NGK actually uses a coating on the plugs that makes it unneccisary to use anti seize. If I take the plugs out for any reason after the first install though, I use a small amount of the silver goo.

 

Bentley says 20 ft lbs. I use this number with a small smear of copper antisieze on my NGK's. I've checked after several thousand miles and they did not loosen.

 

Checking after a few days or so is a smart, preventative step to make sure you have them installed correctly.

 

I've been told by many engine builders that lubing nuts/bolts will give you a false torque reading (unless torque specs called for lubing before torques). I do use a small dab if silver anti-seize on the plug threads and torque to 18 ftlbs. I'm kinda **** so check plugs often and have never found one loose.

 

This is very true, and should be understood, also using any anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads is a Big NO NO, especially remembering the reduced friction when applying the correct torque, also the body of the spark plug shell is responsible for heat transfer to the cylinder head, and when you apply any compound, you are interfering with this heat transfer, upsetting the heat harmonic vibrations!!

 

Everyone I know would NEVER put a spark plug in an aluminum head without using anti-seize. That is just asking for the plug to gaul in the head.

 

If people would check their spark plugs, even replace them like we used to, when I was an apprentice, at every service interval, every 6,000 miles and multiples of, then this notion of applying any form of anti seize compound wouldn't be a common modern day misconception.

Spark plugs are a window and identification tool, into what is going on inside each and every cylinder, this modern day notion, that spark plugs shouldn't be replaced for 40 60 or 100 thousand miles, is absolute nonsense.

 

Yes what you suggest is not a bad idea.
But it is reasonable to go to longer and longer service periods with better products. It used to be that a car with 100k was done. Now 100k is nothing. Oil changes have gone from 3k to 15k (according to MINI, I go to 10k).
We need to pay attention to the progression of automotive technology also.
Just saying.

 

I also understand what your saying too, however when talking about spark plugs, they have not evolved much since their invention, that's no automotive technology progression, is it ?

If you want to know about a progressive move in combustion spark technology, then you will know that, laser technology is now at the forefront, of internal combustion.

I fully understand automotive technology, I work in the industry, at the cutting edge with automotive technology, and the move to longer period service/replacement intervals, is all wrong, it is not good for the customer in the long run, as it will cost you more, it is good for the manufacturer/dealer as it reduces their costs, during warranty, and increases their profit, outside of factory warranty, when you the customer is left footing the bill for issues, that would normally have been diagnosed/rectified, under warranty, had we not moved into the modern misconception, that increased mileage based maintenance schedules are a good idea!

 

Having spent 20 years in the auto industry as a dealer and on various dealer/factory panels, Czar is telling you exactly what is going on in the industry. If you think 10,000 mile oil interval is because of advancements engine wise....I have some beach front property.....

 

Nope, I think 10k oil change intervals are ok because of oil tests I have sent in to Blackstone, not sitting on any panels or old wives tails.
In God we trust, all others need to bring data.

 

You're a dealers dream customer!!

 

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The plugs have to be touqued down enough to "seat" the plug's crush washer and using A-S will not allow that to happen.

And since I have seen many MINI owners with issues of their plugs blowing out, I would suggest against the anti-seize as well.

 

FWIW, we're talking an AL head here...18 lb.ft. max. and a very small swipe of CU anti-seize (the CU is conductive). And I agree with above comments. Oil, filters and plugs are inexpensive when compared to engine re-builds.