IF I double pump the clutch I can shift smoothly.

Worked ok before slave failed. Since then I have:
1) replaced slave and main
2) blead the system the following ways:
a) Pelican parts/popular you tube guy method - compress the slave with plate and bolts before installing. Did both manual and power (pressurized) bleed.
b) The cut 2x4 method jammed against the clutch lever (don't have the link for that right now). Did both manual and power (pressurized) bleed.
c) Pressure blead backwards according to this link
What other method is there to try?

At the darkest moment I even considered the dealer but after 45 min on hold they want almost $500 to bleed the clutch and are like 2 months out.

 

There is a 2 person method I used to do mine. Open slave and have other person push clutch to floor, close slave, have other person pull up on clutch as slow as possible. Do this about 10 times or more, you should get your pedal back somewhat or almost there and make sure to keep an eye on your brake fluid level during this. Then overnight use a broom to hold your clutch all the way to the floor, this is to help get rid of whatever air is left in system. After 8 hours or more remove broom and I had to pull my clutch up, so I did it as slowly as possible and you should be good.

 

Interesting you describe a no-pressure manual bleed...nope haven't tried that one yet. Will recruit a pedal pusher

And, yes, did the push-pedal-overnight thing.... Actually did it for like 3days.

The overnight thing, is that for the master? Because pressing the clutch in 1) closes the pipe to a closed system and 2) there is a high spot in the pipe so any bubbles would coalesce there which I don't know how having the clutch pressed in would help remove air from the closed section.

 

The overnight thing is for the slave. Basically it’s pushing the piston all the way in allowing what are might be trapped to work it’s way back up through the system.

 

How can it work it's way "back up through the system" when there is a high spot in the clutch tube between the slave and master both of which are lower that that section of pipe.

 

did this, same action (or non-action to be more accurate)

...other ideas?

Got wondering about hydraulic slave and master specs so put up this post
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4605732

 

It needs to sit pressed over night or it won't bleed correctly . You need to install it compressed , bleed and then compress and let sit over night and then 1st thing KICK THAT PEDAL 3X HARD AND FAST and it should give you pedal pressure , when mine came back omg I was so happy.. try reading what I went and did

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...eeeeeeeed.html

 

Update
solved though I don't know what really did it since I did all the rain dances at once rather than one at a time to see what really solved it.

Hard to believe leaving it pressed overnight makes a difference. Doubt the dealer does that...."we'll need your car overnight to bleed the clutch".... Do they book time for all those hours stepping on the clutch..(shrug)

Anyway, I'm happy to get it over with.

 

Yep - I paid a mechanic to change my entire clutch. 'Did only half the job - Told me all I needed was a disk and a "Oh by the way - the clutch is new so the pedal engages/disengages only a half inch from the floor until it breaks in."
It never did. That was 4 years ago.. A year ago I started reading NAM posts about this and tried leaving it pressed over a weekend. Even though it had been 4 years - I actually gained 1-1/4" inches. Near 2" of travel now.
One would have thought, any trapped air would have worked it's way out by then. Amazing!

 

Where are you measuring the 2"?

 

Sorry about that - 'just went out to the car to check some fuses and then saw your reply. I measured.
From the floor/bottom edge of the pedal to when I feel it engage or disengage. It's more like 1-3/8" -1-1/2".
A little hard to tell with my foot in the way,....but yeah around 1-3/8".
I remember it being a lot more like 2" when I bought the car new