I have a 2011 MCS 61k miles that suddenly and moderately changed the clutch engagement/disengagement point on the pedal the other day after a brief moment of spirited driving. Now the the engagement/disengagement point is very near the fully released clutch pedal position.

Any ideas as to what has been adversely effected to change the clutch pedal engagement point to near its full free extension point? Any known procedures to start validating clutch system components to determine good or bad parts before tearing the car apart?

 

There is a removable cover plate under the car that lets you see the clutch disc. I understand the clutch is only self adjusting. So no manual adjustment.

 

After spending hours evaluating clutch replacement options and getting quotes from three local shops to R&R I ordered a new master and slave cylinder, decided to replace these parts as its usally recommended for a new clutch install.

Before taking anything apart, pressurized my Motive power bleeder on the reservoir, put the clear drain tube and catch can on the slave cylinder bleed screw. Upon opening the bleed screw, saw fluid for about the first three inches coming down the tube, then three or so inches of air working its way down the drain tube into the catch can. I bleed it a about 4 to 6 ounces more, with a few small air bubbles. Filled the reservoir with DOT 4 LV.

On the test drive, the clutch pedal engagement point was cured! Night and day difference. I'm now able to modulate the clutch engagement in the middle point of the range.

Question what was the source of the air in the line? Inspected both the master cylinder and removed the slave cylinder from the transmission. There's zero brake fluid or seepage signs. Maybe the fluid level was marginal and driving the car hard in conjunction with a clutch pedal modulation sucked in some air. Not for certain because I replaced brakes and power bled the system just a couple years ago.

I went ahead and replaced the slave cylinder with the new one I had on hand. Made a jig out of aluminium flat stock and two 3 1/2" bolts to compress the plunger. Pressurized and bled the system, clutch pedal engagement point is restored. Clutch feels better than it has in a long time. The pedal engagement is now able to be modulated over about 80% at the middle point of pedal travel. First signs of engagement now are about an inch to inch and a half from a fully depressed pedal. Extremely happy that I decided to validate related components before jumping into a clutch replacement.

 

Air in the line most definitely could have caused your issue. It's very similar to air in your brake lines -- very soft feel and delayed engagement.