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Just testing the waters. Wanted to see if there would be any interest from the community for these as i have made mine and its works great. Its big enough for an 8" sub. Not much weight and its just enough extra thump. For time and materials im figuring $100
If i get enough requests i will start making them
Hmm...
this actually looks more promising than having an enclosed sub under the seat.... curious though would you do an amp box on the opposite side for some extra coin....
Its just enough for an 8" sub that doesnt have an enormous magnet. My polk sounds great and i know that rockford has i believe a p1 that works well too. My rockford took a crap so i got the polk
Hmm...
this actually looks more promising than having an enclosed sub under the seat.... curious though would you do an amp box on the opposite side for some extra coin....
No need for an amp box because ypu dont need a massive amp for an 8" sub
It sticking out a bit for a 10" wouldn't be horrible. I have a pod in my trunk and I put a mesh covering over the opening so nothing rubs up against or pokes the sub. That way I'm not too worried about throwing things into the trunk. I really like the amp location! Very stealthy.
It sticking out a bit for a 10" wouldn't be horrible. I have a pod in my trunk and I put a mesh covering over the opening so nothing rubs up against or pokes the sub. That way I'm not too worried about throwing things into the trunk. I really like the amp location! Very stealthy.
Im probably going to change to floor box with a ressed 10
Ok, I have a KENWOOD X-500 1000 max. 2ohm mono amp. and could easily push a 10" JLw3 sub.
I'm looking at this polk audio 8" MM840DVC 4 ohm sub, do yo this will fit in your enclosure?
Ok, I have a KENWOOD X-500 1000 max. 2ohm mono amp. and could easily push a 10" JLw3 sub.
I'm looking at this polk audio 8" MM840DVC 4 ohm sub, do yo this will fit in your enclosure?
I know that weight can really get up there quick. Just built my own box out of 3/4 MDF at 2 cubic feet internal volume, braced, with the front face double baffled. I did make it removable though. Now to tear my car apart and run all my own wires. The PO removed the HK amp. I have had the car for a year now with no tunes. This is a shot of the final fit test in the car. I did use waterproof primer followed by a deck restore type paint. Got the closest color I could to the anthricite interior. BTW the sub is a kicker L7 12 I had from my prior car..
I know that weight can really get up there quick. Just built my own box out of 3/4 MDF at 2 cubic feet internal volume, braced, with the front face double baffled. I did make it removable though. Now to tear my car apart and run all my own wires. The PO removed the HK amp. I have had the car for a year now with no tunes. This is a shot of the final fit test in the car. I did use waterproof primer followed by a deck restore type paint. Got the closest color I could to the anthricite interior. BTW the sub is a kicker L7 12 I had from my prior car..
Yea thats things is too massive for me lol but kicker squares are beast subs. In my gti i had an S10L7 and hit almost 130 db. Can i suggest that you face the sub forward. Facing it to the rear and that close to the hatch may damage the the latch motor switches ect.. From the vibrations
Yea thats things is too massive for me lol but kicker squares are beast subs. In my gti i had an S10L7 and hit almost 130 db. Can i suggest that you face the sub forward. Facing it to the rear and that close to the hatch may damage the the latch motor switches ect.. From the vibrations
I didn't think about that. My last ride was a hatch and I had no problems with it. You get almost 3 dB more facing it toward the rear. I was worried about my sunroof with the vibrations. . . Going to have to try some things out I guess. ..
I didn't think about that. My last ride was a hatch and I had no problems with it. You get almost 3 dB more facing it toward the rear. I was worried about my sunroof with the vibrations. . . Going to have to try some things out I guess. ..
With facing it to the back of the seat it doesnt make much of a difference because the displaced air still bounces off a staionary odject
With facing it to the back of the seat it doesnt make much of a difference because the displaced air still bounces off a staionary odject
If you "bounce" the sound waves off of the backseats the reflected waves essentially will have to bounce off of the rear hatch. This runs a greater risk of noise cancellation and or reverberation.