I tried the search and couldn't find an answer, so here goes....

I just replaced the clutch slave cylinder as it was leaking and there was no pedal.

It was a piece of cake to replace. I believe that we bled it completely, but the clutch disengages much farther in the throw of the pedal than before.

Is there an adjustment, or do I still need to further bleed the clutch?

Thanks......

 

Dino its a nightmare to bleed. You need to have a power bleeder 1st of all
2nd. there is a special tool. With out that tool its kind of a pain. What that
tool does it compresses the piston all the way in.Keeps it there,then you open the bleeder,till no more bubbles. Then you close the bleeder,this tool then backs off the piston to the full travel,then youcompress it all the way in
then you open bleeder. You repat this about 4-5 times. Then you release the tool. Bolt it back up. And check pedal travel. If the pedal is still on the
down side, Guess what more fricken Air. I hate these thing and I work on Mini's all day long.

Ciao Guido

 

Guido:

Thanks allot! I have a power bleeder, but the buddy that helped me doesn't like using them (I think they are brilliant). Anyway..... this tool, I am assuming is holding the piston in the slave, in the opposite direction from arm that the slave is actuating. Is that correct?

Where do I get this tool? Do I need to know a special handshake? :D Heaven knows I enough I enough 'special' Ferrari tools. Or should I say 'specialle'! Why not add some MINI ones to the mix! I have yet to figure out why I like doing this stuff!

 

Dean, is your father Tony Soprano?

 

What is that supposed to mean?

 

See these threads for slave cylinder special tools and tips.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=132378

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=131915

See Post # 77 for pics: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=obx+atb+diff

Jeremy

 

Thanks. The pictures help. Since I already have the slave mounted, can you tell me the distance between the 2 holes on that block?

 

I wish I could help with the distance, but I can't. It is however much easier to bleed with the slave disconnected. I know there are like 10,000 threads on those bolts, but if you remove it, you can hold it with the bleed valve pointing up with the piston compressed. Then attach a suction source ( power suction bleeder, or topside oil changer) and it will take you all of 30 seconds to bleed! I kicked myself in the *** when I spent hours trying to pump the pedal and move fluid, then I realized I could use a dipstick oil changer, and I bled it in less than 30 seconds.

 

From my post #77: chunk of wood with 2.5" centered 5/16" holed, and a few strikes on the wood with a ball pean hammer(centers the slave pushrod on wood).

I left the slave unbolted and just watched when the bubbles stopped going into the catch can fluid.

Jeremy

 

Mission Accomplished!

I don't think that could have been a bigger pain! I ccan't believe that compressing that piston with a block of wood made a difference..... but that was the ticket. Ahhhhhh, the joys of British motoring.

From what gathered from AliceCooperWA, he compressed that thing by hand. God Bless you. You must be strong like bull!

Thanks guys. Hopefully this MCS will be easier to work on than my old MGB! ..... and less frequent!