I've read (on vendor websites) that adding lowering springs, will add negative camber to the rear wheels, ant that you need to install adjustable lower control arms to get rid of that camber. But, I have also read posts from people that added the spring but the camber was minimal, so the new control arms were unnecessary. I want to install craven speed lowering springs on 2020 F56 JCW. They say they will lower it about 1.25". Does anyone know how much negative camber they will add?

 

First, do not lower the car that much. The front lower control arms are below their pivots which generates downforce on the outer wheel at max turn, not helpful and it can be a couple of hundred pounds,

Secondly, that much lowering can leave you with less than 1" of compression travel, and the roll angle alone takes that much. So just don't.

Finally, if the rear negative camber is within 1,5 degrees you are in spec. I have not required aftermarket control arms out back on my car - there is some dsjustability. I did use them on my R53 however, which was a more radical build.

Max drop 15mm before you get adverse effects in the real world.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Lowering also affects toe proprtionately to camber.

So adjust your camber back to stock, your toe might come back close, and then tweak your toe.
The stock arms have some adjustment.

 

So, you're saying the car will corner worse if I add the springs? I love the way the car handles, but would like to make it even better. To me looks are secondary to performance, so I was only buying the springs to lower the center of gravity and improve cornering. I don't want to get rid of the adjustable damper control, so coil overs are out. So, what improvements can I make, besides the rear anti-sway bar which is already on order? I read and read and think i understand what mods will improve performance and the moment I order something I find out, I was mistaken. This is very discouraging.

After suspension, my next step is going with wider wheels... but that is one of the most confusing subjects I've ever come across (and I'm an engineer). For every one thing I read, I read another one that contradicts it.

 

I am saying that. The reasoning and research are here.

Keeping DDC means my option (JCW Pro coils) is not on the table.

There's one whale of a F56 wheels thread here too, which you've probably noted.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Charlie, thanks for the info...VERY informative.

I have a question about your wheels. I read that you have the RSe05's that are 17x8. ECS tuning and NM Engineering sites only list the 7.5". Where did you get the 8" ones? Where did you get the hubs bored?

 

I bought 17x8 with the correct bolt pattern, which are made for Volkswagens, and have too small a centerbore. I purchased the wheels from NM Engineering, who shipped them to a machinist they trusted to hog the centerbores to 66.6 mm and then forward them to me.

Not cheap, but they are very light and strong, and I run 225s without pinching, and at only moderate pressures, so no regrets.

November of '18 the deal was as follows:

Neuspeed RSe05 Black - 17x8 - Offset +45 - 5x112 - CB 57.1 --> $288 each
Supreme Power (Machinist) -> $75 each
Black ball seat 14x1.25 bolts -> $80 for 20 units
TPMS Part# 36106881-890 -> $75 each

So $1,832 plus tires, mounting, and balancing.


Cheers,

Charlie

 

As usual Charlie, you are one of the most knowledgeable and helpful people of any forum I've ever been on. Thank you.

 

I was also looking at the motegi traklites. They are also really light (~17 POUNDS) and are quite a bit cheaper than the RSe05's, but their 17x8 wheels have an et of 40. That is only 0.197" (~3/16") different from the RSe05. Do you think that would be a problem? would poke very much?

 

Dannieh42, I cannot be sure. As you correctly determined the RSe05 is +45, and these observations might be helpful...

1. I am running JCW Coils, and non-OEM camber and caster up front. Bear that in mind when I say clearance on the outer surface up front has not been a concern. Clearance from inner sidewall to shock body is TIGHT but safe.
2. Out back, camber is within OEM spec, and even at +45 I had a rub at 10 and 2 o'clock on the outer edge of the tire when any bump was encountered. In my case after two days the fender liner had "self adjusted" and the problem went away.

So at +40 I expect you would have a bit of a worry at the rear, on the outer edge. My coils drop the back about 14mm, but even the OEM Sport ride height would not avoid this problem.

So I'd suggest a bit of care, or at least the ability to return the wheels if they do not fit properly.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

lmao I'm sorry, what?

Pretty sure anyone and everyone that has coilovers on their mini is lowered way more than 15mm including the ones that have them for track...tf

 

Agreed.

15mm? why bother. lol

 

Besides just lowering the car, coilovers let you tune the suspension for what you need. A good performance set of coilovers have adjustable rebound and dampening, to fine tune the ride, they let you adjust the load on all 4 corners to make cornering consistent in both directions, increase stiffness to reduce body roll, or stiffer in the rear to prevent squatting back and loosing traction during acceleration. And, yes you can use them to lower the center of gravity on the car, but for the Mini, if you lower it too much it can degrade your handling. In a hard corner the angle of the lower control arm can begin to push upward on the wheel, taking weight off the tire and reducing grip. This is called a jacking force and it can cause you to lose traction in a corner.
So it depends on what is most important to you. Is the stance more important, or the performance.

 

double post

 

They will fit no problem. Don't listen to this guy. People are running 18x8.5 +43 on JCW coils with the back down with 0 threads showing and the front with 5-7 threads showing just fine.

 

2022 models don’t have electronic DDC, so JCW Pro coils are on the table.