I've been searching and searching for an answer but can't seem to find a solid answer. I want to lower my car about an inch (H-Sport/Alta/????) It is my daily driver and I won't be racing, so tire life is important. I want to have a more agressive look, improve handling, and reduce the gap in the wheelwell.
How far off from the factory setting is the camber and toe when you lower the car an inch? I haven't seen many people adding front or rear camber kits to their cars after lowering. Is it necessary or is there enough adjustment that a re-alignment will correct the changes in camber and toe after lowering?

Little help??

 

nparker,

I just installed h-sport springs & rear lower control arms and koni adjustable shocks. There is a noticable difference in the rear camber, but not way off. From other experts on this site the only worry on tire wear will be in the back, thats why I have the adjustable control arms. Some have said that frequent rotation will prolong the tires. In terms of performance go with sway bars first then springs. Hope it helps.



Peter

 

Withouit the lower control arms in the rear (which I have) the H-Sports will give you about 2 degrees negative camber. Which looks a little volkswaggony (there a new word!). This would actually look OK if you had camber plates on the front and did the same there, but then there's the wear issue. IMHO it's the difference in camber between the front and the rear that looks odd. I would add the adjustable lower arms to your setup and ask for stock toe and negative 1 degree in the rear. That's what I did and it's a great compromise for twisties and commute-style driving.

Graham

 

Withouit the lower control arms in the rear (which I have) the H-Sports will give you about 2 degrees negative camber. Which looks a little volkswaggony (there a new word!). This would actually look OK if you had camber plates on the front and did the same there, but then there's the wear issue. IMHO it's the difference in camber between the front and the rear that looks odd. I would add the adjustable lower arms to your setup and ask for stock toe and negative 1 degree in the rear. That's what I did and it's a great compromise for twisties and commute-style driving.

Graham

 

Along those lines, not having replaced control arms before, what is involved in this process? It looks fairly straight-forward/easy...

Besides cost, any reason for not doing the top ones? I would guess that adjustment (tow?) is not sought here...

Thanks a bunch!

 

>>I've been searching and searching for an answer but can't seem to find a solid answer. I want to lower my car about an inch (H-Sport/Alta/????) It is my daily driver and I won't be racing, so tire life is important. I want to have a more agressive look, improve handling, and reduce the gap in the wheelwell.
>>How far off from the factory setting is the camber and toe when you lower the car an inch? I haven't seen many people adding front or rear camber kits to their cars after lowering. Is it necessary or is there enough adjustment that a re-alignment will correct the changes in camber and toe after lowering?
>>
>>Little help??

nparker-
for the full story on this subject see https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...amp;topic=9726
I have H-sport spings on an MCS and it is my daily driver. I have stock S-lite wheels. I have a madness rear swaybar and added H-sport control arms-adjustable lower two only. After installation of everything my rear camber was about negative 2.4 degrees and looked tilted in. And the fronts were off too, one a little positive and the other negative on toe in, I think. Enough off from stock settings that I would recommend having a good shop do alignment after doing all of the suspension work that you want to do. I asked for negative 0.75 degrees camber in the rear and factory settings for everything else front and rear. The range is negative 0.5 to negative 1 degree for the rears if you don't drive too aggressively and don't want too much wear on your tires. Now my wheels look fine like stock even though the car is lowered. I does ride rougher over bumps but does corner very well. Overall handling is much much better than before the alignment and after the suspension was installed. The car didn't handle too good but the alignment set it all straight. I think you don't really need to add any control arms or camber kits unless that is something you want. Just the H-sport springs and maybe a rear swaybar is fine the do the alignment to be sure. The shop can adjust your alignment however you want. Don't go to an inexperienced place. I started with Midas and they refused to do it saying that they do standard unmodified cars. They referred me to a brake and alignment specialty garage- they had done MINIs before. Rough cost of the alignement was $82- took about 100 minutes.

 

Thanks for all your replies. This clarifies everything for me. Thanks minihune for the link. I was really looking for something that listed the factory specs and that link gave me everything I needed.

What a great bunch of guys (and girls).
I love this place!!!

 

>>Along those lines, not having replaced control arms before, what is involved in this process? It looks fairly straight-forward/easy...
>>
>>Besides cost, any reason for not doing the top ones? I would guess that adjustment (tow?) is not sought here...
>>
>>Thanks a bunch!

You don't NEED the top arms to be adjustable unless you want to save weight. They are going to be harder to change than the lower arms due to access for tools. Way up there by the fuel tank. I'd say the lower arms are fairly easy but you need the right socket and a compact ratchet to get at the inner bolts that are recessed and, again squeezed close to the fuel tank.

The toe is adjusted by moving the trailing arm which is secured by three or four bolts, I can't remember exactly. The alignment MUST be done by experts. With my Hunter laser alignment machine, the air dam has to come off to allow the heads to "see" under the front of the car. MINI also requires that the car be loaded with weight (150lbs in each front seat, and 30lbs in the trunk/boot). I used gym weights for that. After you get the car setup with all that and the alignment machine dialed in, it's easy front and rear.

Don't go anywhere that says they'll do it for $59 or something like that. This is precision work and it does take at least 90 minutes. At my shop that's $120 in labor. Just so you know what to expect and what to avoid.

Graham

 

Thanks for the link minihune and the info mckinneymini! I think I will get a pair from Randy soon...