Congrats on your starting option! It is always good to have one that actually starts!
Now, how does it run and drive?

 

It's not drivable yet.....right now it's sitting on 4 jack stands in my garage with the 4 tires & rims and the entire front end off the car in front end service mode. I need to test the radiator fan resistor to see if it's good, if it isn't, now is the time to replace it....already had to replace the resistor in my R53 when I got it

I need to do a supercharger service, replace the water pump, the rear brakes are frozen, could be bad e-brake cables or calipers, or both....

The radio does not make tune noise from the speakers, possible bad Harmon Kardon amp

And the convertible top stopped working when I disconnected the battery to install the EWS & engine computers back in the car......(sigh....it was working, but not now)

Bryan

 

That's awesome! Congrats! So what was the issue?

 

RPM Motorsports said that the EWS4.3 module was out of sync......the engine computer was OK......

 

Congrats! So, what's the plan? Just get it driving or is this a light restoration for undoing the previous owner's. . . efforts?

 

So far the plan is to fix everything that is wrong with it....and just make it a good daily driver......the body is perfect....so is the convertible top.....interior is perfect except the drivers seat has one of the seat bottom stitching's come undone

I need to get the supercharger serviced and put the radiator assembly back in and then let the engine run to see if it's OK or not.....I have some noise from under the valve cover or timing cover, probably due to sitting for so long and being cranked over a lot and not starting.....

Bryan

 

 

You were correct, the EWS4.3 module was out of sync......RPM Motorsports did a repair or re-sync on the module......car now starts and engine runs....

Bryan

 

You can take it to an upholsterer and thet can restitch it for you,
Keep us posted!
I am happy that you have it running and hope it is roadworthy soon!

 

 

On the top, try this....cycle the windows up and down 3 times, then try the top. Also I am not sure on this but the key might operate the top too, in the door handle lock. Unsure about this one as yours being an first gen. When the battery is disconnected for a prolonged period, one needs to reboot the system.

 

I tried that, plus all the other reset procedures.....even held the unlock toggle switch in the "up" position for the recommended time.....the top still doesn't work at all.....

I taped the package shelf limit switch down, made sure the convertible top lever tripped the other limit switch back there, also made sure the trunk light goes out when the boot lid is closed.....still the top is up

I don't get any red light flash, or any noise or movement at all when I try to open the top.....the windows work just fine, and I can roll them up with the key in the drivers door as well.

I have the battery disconnected for the night....I'll start over tomorrow......all this started when I disconnected the battery to install the engine and EWS computers back into the car after I got them from RPM Motorsports.......at least the engine runs now, but I don't know why the top would stop working

I checked the low speed fan resistor today also, it's bad....got another coming next week

 

Quick update on the "convertible top no workie" after I disconnected the battery to install the EWS & engine control computers from RPM Motorsports......

Before I connected the battery back up this morning, I decided to test the top motor in the crossbar in the center of the top, no power to the connector, I did use a battery and supply power to jump the slider motor and it works. So then I decided I would test both limit switches at the rear of the car in the trunk. Removed both switches, tested them with OHM meter and both test OK, reinstalled limit switches.

Next task was to reconnect the battery and continue trying to figure out why top will not budge at all......

Connected battery, turned key on, radio says "disable", the navigation screen just stares at me with the "MINI" logo on the screen....I cycled the windows a few times, then tried the "top down" button, nothing....no noise, no red light blinking......it's getting close to 90* in my garage at 10am and I'm back to being frustrated with the "Mini from hell" now.....thinking to myself what did I get myself into here with this car.........

Then I had an idea.....I remember from my many years of being an auto tech that some "high end" cars have to "relearn or re-boot" some of the modules after battery disconnect......so what I did was just leave the key in the ignition in the "run" position for about an hour or so while I did other things in the garage.......after a while, I went and looked inside the car, the radio was on a station, and the Nav system was showing my location on the map screen........so I thought, Hmmmmm......could it be this easy? Got inside the car and pushed the "top down" button.....and it worked.....top goes up & down perfectly now.....guess I should have remembered the "reboot" issue earlier.......so now if I ever have to disconnect the battery for any reason, I'll be sure to put my "memory saver" cable into the ALDL computer diagnostic connector under the dash to prevent this from happening again.......so that issue is solved.

Now I can concentrate on the other issues to fix, the supercharger service, water pump, cooling fan resistor, e-brake cables, and getting the radio to produce noise out of the speakers.......and tires, car needs tires....and brake pads

I'm tired.....and relieved......it's been a busy hot day up here.....

Good night.......Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,
Glad you dxed and got the top working along with the other electronics! About a year ago, I replaced the fan speed switch with the oem and it only lasted a little over a year. I just did it again and this time trying a non oem one, in hopes it will last a bit longer! (in first gen JCW area) These seem o be a constant problem across the board of gen 1s.

 

Wayne...I assume you are talking about the radiator cooling fan resistor in the radiator mounting assembly.....I had to replace the one in my '04 R53 after I got the car a few years ago. Found some on eBay for under $20.....it's been over 2 years now and the fan still works on both speeds......

 

To me it shows that not all the time, oem is the best! I am hoping I don't have to do this in another year! You give me hope!

 

Well, the '06 R52 MCS JCW "Mini from hell" has reared it's ugly head again.....another set-back today.

I decided to drain & fill the engine oil, I was not sure of what oil type was in the engine when I got the car, the oil was new & clean, but I was not sure if the previous owner knew that the engine requires synthetic oil or not.....so I just drained the crank case (didn't put a new filter in), and filled it up with new oil. Put the radiator back in, connected the hoses & cooling fan connector, and filled up with anti-freeze and water. I started the engine, I knew I had some sort of rattle under the hood....but when I didn't have the radiator in, I could not let it run very long without coolant. Well, the rattle is still there....I thought maybe, just maybe it would clear up & go away, nope.....the death rattle is still there even after completely warmed up and running for about an hour in the garage. I put my stethoscope on the engine and it sounds like it's coming from behind the timing cover, which is brand new....and I do mean "brand new" ......it's really shiny and no dirt at all on it at all.

So, what do I do now?
Replace just the tensioner and see if the noise goes away?
Can I tell anything if I pull the valve cover and try to look inside the timing cover?
Put a stop to the $$ bleeding and sell the car the way it is? (how much is the other question)
Part the car out and take my losses?

The car still needs e-brake cables, and maybe rear calipers, it does need rear pads for sure
The Harmon Kardon radio system does not make noise out the speakers, possible bad amp under the seat
Needs supercharger service & water pump (I have the oil, & water pump here now)
Needs wheels & tires (I'm keeping the black Motegi wheels that were on the car, and the front & rear tires were 2 different sizes)
The AC system needs to be topped off, it blows cold, but not as cold as it should be (the low speed resistor is burned out, I have a new resistor coming)
The drivers seat bottom stitching has come undone

I'm about done with this car.....I guess I expected too much from this little Mini.....

I need a nap.....(and maybe a drink first)

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,
It is critical to buy a tested chain tensioner, as many are garbage. So make sure to replace it with a tested one. Lots of bad new ones out there! Do this before anything else and don't let it run that long with a rattle! I do not think there is much if any value in taking the cam chain cover off.

Don't lose patience! You will get it worked out soon. These cars like to frustrate us, but when we win the battle, the rewards are there! Tust me, been there and done that!

On another note, the rear calipers are the wind back type and require a tool to wind the puck back in.
You can take the seat to an auto upholster and get the stitching fixed. Bring just the seat, to keep costs low.
Again, don't give up, as you are almost at the finish line!

 

 

I've got the disc brake wind back tools here. Have a tensioner coming from Pelican this week. Will install that and see if it makes the engine running quieter, then decide what to do

Bryan

 

It is important to know if the drain off valve at the bottom of the oil filter casing has not popped out, or is gone. If either of these are the case, oil pressure will be very low and usually throw a code, for low oil pressure. But if it is just leaking by, the pressure may not be low enough to throw a code. You should check it to have piece of mind. I still think it is crap and stuck cam chain tensioner!

 

Yea, I hear what you are saying, before I actually started it up today after draining the oil from the crankcase and putting new oil in, I disabled the coil and cranked it over until the oil light went out, then waited for it to come back on, took about 10 seconds, maybe a little more. I'll get an oil filter tomorrow and check that valve inside the housing.

From what I've read today, I'm pretty sure it's a stuck tensioner from sitting so long and not being able to start

Bryan

 

The tensioner is done from the outside, next to the oil filter and a little lower. It is not too hard to do, but requires a little contortion to get the socket and ratchet in there. I have done many though, so it is doable!
Note: oil it before installing it. You need the shaft to be slippery, before the oil gets to it,

 

Yea, I found a few videos and info on tensioner replacement, I already have the wheels off, and the header heat shield is off as well, I've also got a complete mechanic tool set since 1974, it's what I did for a living.

I hope this tensioner replacement cures the noise, I'm not in the mood to tear the front of the engine off at all.

Will keep you posted, and thanks

Bryan

 

Yes, I saw the links for the calipers & cables......and I do appreciate the time for looking & posting the links......but as a retired auto tech after 45 years in the field....I will not buy used calipers to put on a car.....too much liability and I would not know if they are in the same shape as the ones I got on the car already

So, to continue with the story on the "chain rattle" noise I have now.....I went to the local part store and picked up an oil filter so I have that to put back in when I check the drain valve in the filter adapter....and I need to get the tensioner pulled to see if it's collapsed, stuck, or not......the filter and the pulling of the tensioner is on my list for tomorrow

Bryan