I left the key in the ignition for most of the morning with the ignition on, still no "chime" from the car when key is in and door is opened

I have a cam & crank sensor coming from ebay, might be here late this week....I know the crank sensor is working, I have a reading on the scanner while cranking the engine. I could not find a cam reading in the scanner

I ran a compression test, have 170lbs in all cylinders, but that is a cold reading....

I talked with RPM Motorsports this morning, what we are probably gonna do is I'm gonna send them my key, the CAS (immobilizer) module, and the ECM (engine) computer and they are going to run a diagnostics on them to see what is wrong (if anything) with these items.....cost is $150 for checking these out.....then we go from there if they find anything wrong

I'm going to wait until I get the cam sensor installed and se if I still have a "no start" from the engine before I pull those 2 modules out of the car.

I'm still open for ideas here....I'm at a standstill until the cam sensor arrives

Bryan

 

Wait so reading back through this the original owner said the coil failed but worked on a different car? I would troubleshoot the coil.

 

I'll take it off and test it on my '04 R53 tomorrow......but he said he put the coil on another Mini and the coil worked from the '06 R52 on the test Mini

Bryan

 

I'd swap the coils and see what both cars do.

 

That's the plan for tomorrow....swap coils from car to car and see what happens to each car.....I gotta stop at the parts store and get a set of plugs anyway for this R52......


Bryan

 

Swapped ignition coils today from the R52 and the R53......the R52 still won't start, yet the R53 starts & runs fine with the R52 coil.....so, back to square one.....been in contact with RPM Motorsports to get this car running, I will install a new cam sensor when it arrives, if still dead.....RPM Motorsports will get my key, the EWS, & the engine computer to see if they can find out the problem


Bryan

 

Some random thoughts.

1.) The battery in the FOB can be replaced as I did it. There is a Youtube video where a BMW guy does the battery switch. I used the thicker battery instead of the special thinner one that BMW/MINI uses. With the thicker battery I did not solder anything but instead used the thicker battery, some plastic epoxy and some clamps. Yes you do not tighten the living hell out of the c-clamps.
2.) You have checked all the fuses including those located under the engine area relay/fuse box?
3.) Would think with an electrical tester you could verify the clutch switch and immobilizer are functioning correctly. On same line of thought the plug going into the coil should have voltage if the ecu is saying to start,

If you can get the thing running you got one helluva deal but be sure to get the heat shields around that header,

 

Mini dealer says key is good, they tested it at the dealer.


Fuses are all good, clutch switch is good, have 12v power to ignition coil


Header heat shield is in the trunk

 

It would not be the first $1500 R53 I would have bought.

But I have the time to work on it. But I would be interested in the overall condition of the rest of the car, suspension, brakes, interior, etc.

It is SO EASY to buy at $1500. and end up putting $10K into it with new parts.

Best of luck.

Motor On!

 

Be interesting to see what RPM says. Maybe the ECU is bad. Can the ECU from the 04 be used in the 06?

EDIT: Guess not looks like they are tied by both the key and the VIN.

 

Even though you're getting a reading on your tester, I would try the crank position sensor you have incoming before sending out all those important and expensive modules and key.

 

It's actually an R52 MCS JCW car.....



The outside of the car is in excellent condition, maybe just a couple of minor scratches here & there, no dents at all.....the interior is also excellent, the only issue is the drivers front seat has the stitching undone in the seat area. The passenger seat is not even cracked or wrinkled from sitting in it.


The convertible top is perfect, not even a tear in it anywhere, and I did get it to go up & down...finally


Suspension? not sure yet, I do know the car has been lowered, it's lower than my stock '04 R53....and the R52 has larger tires on the front than the rear. There is also some sort of camber adjusting plates at the top of the front struts as well......


Brake issues known so far.....both rear calipers are very tight, or it's the e-brake cables, or both.....had to pry the e-brake lever at the caliper up to loosen the pads from the rotors.....not sure anything about the front brakes yet....


I am not going to drop 10k into this car....I'm keeping a close eye on money spent to get it running and possibly fix other issues.....I have a limit in mind, if I reach that limit, and the car still does not run, I'll either sell it as is, or take all the JCW parts off to install on my car and part the rest of the car out


Bryan

 

Yea, I had already planned to do that, I'm trying to get the car into the garage so I can get it up on jack stands to remove the front end so I can get to the dipstick tube and remove the broken dipstick that is still stuck inside.....figure the crank sensor is right there in front of me, might as well do it now


Bryan

 

Got the car into the garage, had to use my riding lawnmower to get it inside. I think the passenger rear caliper or ebrake cable is also frozen.....

Just another item to be added to the "fix list"

I'll post up a couple pics tomorrow of my shop, and what the mini shares space with now

 

have you done an EWS sync with ista+ or inpa ?

 

No, is this something that I can do here at the house? How do I do this?

 

take a pic of the shock towers and struts, we'll tell you what they are.
check this out: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-calipers.html

 

If those camber plates are red, they are probably Madness Motorworks strut tower plates. Look something like this?

Subw00er, those are my calipers for sale haha. A383, start spraying the ebrake cables NOW with WD-40. When I did my brake upgrade I hosed down the left side early and the thing slid right out. I had problems with the right side, was just about to cut the parking cable, when I used a 5lb sledge and a metal wedge on the round part of the cable protruding from the caliper and was able to break it loose.

 

Did a few things on the Mini today, got it up on 4 jackstands, removed the front bumper cover, radiator and fan assembly. Now I have access to the dipstick tube, removed the tube, didn't find the other end of the broken dipstick, oh well. I did notice that the water pump is leaking, along with a plate that's bolted to the side of the block behind the supercharger. Might as well do a supercharger service while I'm in here.

My cam sensor arrived today, crank sensor should be here tomorrow, will install those and see if the engine starts, if not, then I make arrangements with RPM Motorsports to send the EWS and engine modules to them for diagnosis.

I did take pictures, but never got them uploaded to my computer. The top of the struts say SBC on them. Looks to have 4 Allen head bolts for camber adjustment. Will try to get pictures loaded tomorrow.

Will spray the brake cables as well, if I need to replace the cables, do I need to drop the exhaust?

I'm beat, this heat up here is taking it's toll on me

Thanks for everyone's help so far

Bryan

 

Not familiar with SBC but yes to SPC that makes the Eibach plate as well.

 

if they have red poly monitor for cracks, I've had 2 sets fail, one set failed so bad when I put the car on a lift the front shocks fell out

 

Yea, yer right, they are "SPC"......I was trying to remember without looking at the picture.....my bad......


This car and the heat up here is getting to me.....


Here are pics of the upper mounts


Bryan

 

Curious....what year gearshift **** is this? (first pic)


It's different than my '04 R53 ****......I like this one better than what I have on my R53 (second pic)


Wondering how hard it is to swap these out


Bryan

 

They took a Gen 2 stock R56-R59 **** and stuck it on there R53/.

 

Does the Gen 2 **** just pull up off the lever liked the Gen 1 ***** do? Or do I have to swap out the entire shifter assembly?