+1. Yep they just had the more aggressive pads.

 

I'm headed up to get the car in the morning through Seattle morning work traffic with a tow dolly on the back of my Dakota. Should be an interesting drive.

I'll keep you updated on my progress with the car and post some pics.

I just realized that I never got around to introducing myself and my '04 R53 that I got a couple years ago. I'll try to do better, promise

Bryan

 

Waiting for pics and comments!
Happy for you too!

 

Well, the car is home here....my little '94 Dakota hauled it really well.....was about an hour trip home with the Mini on the tow-dolly. We had some trouble getting the car off of the dolly....man that R52 weighs a lot.....either that or the brakes are kinda frozen to the rotors....will dig into that as well

Not much works on this car....radio turns on, no sound from any of the speakers.......I can't get the convertible top to work at all....not sure if the engine has to be running or not....which it doesn't run at all....one reason why I got it so cheap.

All 4 of the power windows do work, as does the power mirrors.....not real crazy about the cheap LED rear tail lights and turn signals....very hard to see in the daylight....Has Motegi wheels....just wish they weren't scuffed up on the outer rim....also has 2 different tire sizes from front to rear....

I'm also not crazy about the chrome mirror caps and the chrome supercharger inlet slot on the hood....I don't like the white hood stripes either.....

Guess I got my work cut out for me on this one.....first order of business is to get the engine running if possible....then try to fix the stuff that doesn't work......a few pics below......

 

What does the engine look like?
I don't like the tail lights either.
I think the car stands out better with stripes.
The wheels can be sanded and repainted.
The top will not open, if the rear lid is open, or the shelf is absent. Both can be worked around.
You can remove the chome overkill and use colored ones in their place.

 

engine pic

 

Does it turn over, but will not start, or have you knowledge of what is wrong with it?
I think I would rather have the factory JCW air box.
Did you not get the intercooler cover?
We are here to help you get it going!

 

The engine cranks over fine, it just won't start....I have the ECSTuning scanner here I was going to plug in and see if I have cam & crank signal to start with....

I would rather have the factory air box & filter as well, but that's way down on the list of priorities right now.

I did get the silver JCW inter-cooler plastic cover, it's in the back seat

I did put the package shelf back in and still can't get the top to open.....I read that the e-brake has to be on...which it wasn't when I tried to operate the top

I had the rear lid open and pushed the limit switch, still no luck with the top opening

I plan to put the black mirror covers and hood opening on if and when I can get the major items fixed and working.....maybe I can trade these chrome ones for the black ones if someone has them

 

Played with the R52 today, made a long list of items that either don't work or need some sort of attention.

Here is a few items that need to have some attention:

Car cranks over fine, no spark, and no injector pulse. Fuel pressure is 52lbs with key on, 54lbs while cranking engine. Scanner shows 213rpm while cranking engine, so I'm going to say the crank sensor is OK. I get one injector pulse only when cranking engine over, the one pulse is at the very beginning of trying to start the engine, then the pulse goes out. Could this be an "immobilizer" issue? I've read that the engine will not crank if the immobilizer is activated. My scanner says, "Immobilizer - disable"......now what? (All fuses under hood and inside car are good, tested every one of them)

The oil dipstick is broken off inside the tube.....(just great)
The radio & CD turn on, no sound at all from the speakers
I got the convertible top to work, had to fold down the rear seats and crawl through to push the limit switch button, so now I have to repair or adjust the package tray so it pushes the button
Where is the engine temp gauge in the dash gauges? I have the two smaller tach & speedo on top of the column, then I have the Nav system in the larger center pod in the dash cluster.

Where does the two wire connector plug into shown at the aftermerket air filter box? My '04 R53 does not have this connector, This is an '06 R52 JCW car.

I ran my Schwaben scanner on the car, there were codes everywhere.....so I just cleared them out and started over with the scanner, now I only have a couple codes for airbag fault, and body rear lights (someone put LED rear lights in the car)

SO.....what's my next move to get this pig engine started? Anything else to test? I do know that this is not the original engine, I'm not sure if any electronics were changed or not with the engine swap, ie, ECM or any others.

Here are a few more pics of this car I just got....the first pic is of the wire connector that I can't find a home for, and what is the yellow end on the wiper stalk do? (second picture)

 

The yellow end of the wiper stalk lights up when you are low on washer fluid. I will check that wiring connect later. My wife is currently out shopping in the car. For the immobilizer have you seen this tip?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3726491

 

To continue with what I did today, first thing I did was take the key down to my local Mini dealer and ask if there was a battery inside to change because I could not unlock the doors or the rear trunk lid by pushing the buttons......he tested the key with his receiver and says the key is good, no battery inside or needed.....so then I came home and started to make my "to do list" on this car

 

thanks for the immobilizer link....I sure hope that this is not the problem....

I'll print it out and do some tests tomorrow.....I'm wiped out today on this car

Just to clarify, the engine cranks over just fine, just no spark or injector pulse

Bryan

(Just went out to the car, I have no chime when key is in ignition and the door is open, also, no chime when I hold key next to ignition switch, also no chime when lights are on with no key in ignition and door is open......are we getting close yet??)

 

The small connector by the airbox is probably for the factory JCW airbox which has been replaced. It had a flap that opened at 4,500 rpm with electrical and vacuum connections.

The header looks like the stock header. Also looks like you have the Harmon Kardon system and the amps are problematic which could be the reason for no sound. The broken dipstick is a common MINI thing. There’s an aftermarket dipstick for about $75, but some people say the reading is off. I would just get another stock one or equivalent.

 

You might need to re-register your remotes to control the doors and trunk. If it still doesn’t work, the remote receiver in the mirror might be bad. Also, the remote batteries charge by induction when you’re driving your car so switching keys periodically is a good idea.

 

Yes, this car has the Harmon Kardon system.....any way to bypass the amp?

I heard the dipsticks are a problem.....will probably just get one from Mini

 

I only have the one key here...not even a valet key came with the car

 

The wiring on an HK system is complicated and it’s not straightforward to just bypass the amp. The speakers are also 2 ohms instead of the usual 4 ohm for car stereos. The radio is the same unit for the regular system and HK.

One way to get around the HK amp is to replace it with a 6 channel JL Audio amp, or find a discontinued JBL MS8(?). Info on both replacements can be found here on NAM.

With all of the issues with your car, I would make sure the amp is the issue before spending on a replacement amp.

On the keys, if you get another remote key, make sure you get it from a MINI dealer, or reputable source as many places say they can sell you a working key, but they often don’t work. The keys are fairly expensive and will probably run between $150 and $250. There also is a non remote key available, I think for less than $100. The key prices vary by dealer so check around.

I don’t think a valet key came with the car, just a cheap plastic emergency key to keep in your wallet.

 

Yea, I meant the cheap plastic key....I got one of those with my R53....but I had to buy a regular key right after I got it....I opted for just a plain key, not one with the buttons...that still cost me just over $200 for the plain key


thanks for the info about the amp....I think I read that they were a problem....I have the non-Harmon system in my R53....it sounds just fine, at least to me


My main issue right now is to get this pig engine running.....

 

Thanks for the info on the connector at the air box......as long as the connector is not causing the "no start", I'm fine with it just laying there


Just bought a dipstick from Pelican.....the OE one for $25

 

Sunday, 7-8-2018......just went out and tried the ECM reset instructions as posted by twokbolt in a reply in this thread.....still no start, cranks over good, just no varoom!! (I do have tach needle movement while cranking, the needle rises a bit)


I still have no chime when I hold the key next to the ignition switch, and no chime when I insert the key into the switch and open a door.....no noise at all


So, unless someone has any other ideas to try, I may have to call RPM Motorsports this week and talk to them about either the immobilizer system or ECU for them to fix.....I really don't want to send them one unit, pay for that, and then come to find out it was the other computer that failed.....


I still have to take the front end off and get the broken dipstick out of the tube, but it's supposed to be in the 80's & 90's over the next few weeks, and the car is outside, not in a garage where I can work on it.....


I just need this thing to run right now.....I'm open for ideas here

 

Sunday, 7-8-18.......stumbled across this today while searching ........


"While not explicitly mentioned anywhere in the owner's manual it IS my understanding that a 'dead FOB' can not be read by the car and therefore the car will not start."



I did take the key I have here to Mini dealer, they tested the key and said that it was OK..... I'm not sure who or what to believe here

Bryan

 

I think the battery in the key is rechargeable, and the battery fails after a while. You could try leaving it in the ignition maybe while the car is on?! Guys am I right here that there is a charging coil at the key slot?

When I got my car the key was bad; it would only work right next to the car, but the car had sat for a while unused. Its working normally now after a bunch of charge cycles.

The battery is not replaceable, although i think some have managed to carefully dremel the fob apart and solder in a new one.

 

Correct, the face lift keys charge through induction while driving. However, I don't think the battery has any affect on the immobilizer in the key.

I would check with member Valvashon who's very knowledgeable about them and has a side business of repairing damaged keys/remotes and replacing batteries.

 

The key fob does have a battery and it's charged while it's in the ignition. Also I confirmed that harness plug is unplugged on my JCW with aftermarket intake as well.

 

Yes, there is a battery in the fob that charges when it is in the ignition. Even if the battery is dead, it will not inhibit the starting.
It may be in mobilizer mode, but I was thinking it would not even turn over.
The cam position sensor would be the thing to look at on the spark and injector action. Without it working properly (or in this case at all, it will not start)It may possibly have corroded connector plug.