Hello all! I just acquired a 2005 Mini with an issue to troubleshoot and need advice/help!

2005 Auto; no spark/won't fire.

I've heard about potential immobilizer issues and have check the following:

Fuel pressure - good
Fuel pump - I can hear it turn on behind the seat when I turn the key
Relays - fuses: tested the engine/fuel relays with new relays from the dealership with no further success.
New plugs - tested them, no spark as key is turned

Car turns over and just doesn't fire!

I don't want to overlook something before I have it towed to the dealership and spend $$$.

I am new to Mini and want to get this right and hope you all can help!

 

On more thing. After trying to start, I hear a moderate to load buzzing coming from somewhere in the drivers side under the hood.

 

Does the car "chime" with the key in the ignition and the door open? If so, hold the key (don't insert) close to/against the "ring" around the ignition. Do you get the same chime?
If you do, I's guessing it's the EWS (immobilizer). If not, there may be something kaput in your key transponder chip system.

 

If I remember correctly, if the immobilizer is not functioning it won't engage the starter.

 

Door chime works with key and when key is near ignition oval, same noise.

So to dealership? Is this a reset by the dealership or is it a repair with additional parts to pay for (like new keys or something)?

 

Just reset the ecu, cleaned the rusted #4 coil, same result...rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr no vrooom.

 

Used an article on this forum to reset ECU and on test 14 (On board diagnostics codes) I got the following numbers: please help decode!!!


Code // Test #
514830 (14)
122200 (14.1)
622800 (14.2)
502800 (14.3)
672800 (14.4)










How to Reset the ECU:
With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19) The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements.
Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
Here is a list of all the tests on your MINI:
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calendar week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injector status, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Comb system Test
3.0 Service interval counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel gauge.
1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal implausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No function
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No function
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. For consumption factor
20.3 saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)

 

On board diagnostic test gave the following (not ObdII), but using the odometer button method:

514830
122200
622800
502800
672800

 

If the EWS has gone out of sync with the DME (ECU), your options are a) a trip to the dealer, 2) purchase a OBD port-to-USB cable and software (there are several, like INPA/Ediabas) and learn to reseed the EWS yourself.
This is all assuming that your EWS and DME are otherwise okay. Check your ground points in the engine bay.

 

Car must be in Park or Neutral to start with foot on brake, right? Something so simple as it's not getting the signal from the CVT switch? Or signal from the brake switch to the ECU?

 

I will check the CVT if I can today and also look into the connection and software...and will update...
Thnks

 

Check your crankshaft sensor. It is responsible for ignition timing. If it goes out you will get a crank no start with no spark

 

Can you borrow an OBD2 tool and see if the crank and or cam pos. sensor is giving a code?

 

Usually the cam sensor is for injector timing, it's also usually backed up in the keep alive memory of the ecu so usually it will just run the default values if that sensor goes out. No harm in checking though. You can rent a scan tool for free from any autozone, orielys or advanced. Just leave a deposit.

 

Also if you read across the crank sensor with a multimeter you should read continuity. Something small like .5 ohms or 1 ohm. Just not open like ol or ofl. Usually they will fail open

 

I'll check the obd2 tomorrow if I can. I just put new wires, plugs and msd coil and still nothin'. So immobilizer or maybe the crank sensor or cam sensor? I have to locate those sensors. I am not too familiar with the Mini yet and all my info is coming from forums, so keep it coming!

 

If you get the scantool from autozone that has live data, pull up the data list while cranking and if you see rpms then the crank sensor is good. No rpm's and it is your culprit.

 

OK, I now have WinKFPT, Ediabas, INPA, NFS, Tool 32, NCS. I am waiting for my USB connector and OBD II scanner, both of which will be here by the weekend (I think).

I have the WinKFPT user guide, but could use some, "do this" or "use this first" for these software packages. I followed the instructions, am decent with computers, not scared to fail, but more scared to screw things up beyond repair. Which of these software is best for what? Again, I am a noob.

I want to:

1: Get diagnostic trouble code(s)
2: If DME and/or EWS are out of sync, how do I know? Repair? or how to tell if they are just toasted? I am not beyond reading/learning, but a head start is appreciated.

 

I'm haveing the same problem though my '03 MCS, was running then just quit and gave p0335 and I replaced the CPS, reset the ecu and still no starting, spark and NOT giving the code anymore. no RPM on live data either. Reluctor wheel is in place.....? New sensor has continunuty between top and bottom pins. heeeeelp? (service mode SUX!)

 

OK, for those that have helped, thanks and here is what I have after my obd ii scan:
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor?
P1611 "SERIAL COMMUNICATION LINK TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE"??? = theft alarm/chipped key system = EWS????
P1692 (2X) ??????

1692 I have no idea.

1611 Immobiliser?

0500 Speed sensor? what is this on a Mini?TPS?

 

P1692 is considered a safetey level code.
Electronic Throttle Control Monitor Level 2/3 Motorized Throttle Control and Fuel Injection Switch Off 'A'
Can be a faulty crankshaft pulley

[P1611 Serial Communicating Link Transmission Control Module
Need to have this replaced.

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor
Check your ABS sensors for broken or frayed wires.

These are IMO where to start.

 

thanks Braminator.

Just watched youtube on the speed sensors and am planning on sending my EWS to RPM Motorsports for replacement and recoding with my DME.

I hope I get this car running!

 

Keep us posted. Good luck

 

You can check the signal from the sensor if you backprobe the ecu 81 pin connector at pin 55. If no signal check the wire harness and connector. If you get the signal sounds like an ecu to me, yikes! I would get a second opinion from a mini tech

 

Sounds like a good plan of attack. If the transmission is not communicating car wont start. Unfortunately with manufacturer specific codes I only have the same info as the rest. I checked alldata for you but it is lacking at best. Keep us updated it will be interesting to see what you find