Not that anyone is still following this but **UPDATE**:

Shipped EWS and DME to RPM Motorsports. Got them back last night and VROOM!, the car fired right up (well, after I charged the battery anyway).

BUT!, I still have a couple of issues:
1) Service Engine Soon is now on
2) Another Light (yellow light, looks like a broken circle) is on (think it's a brake sensor???)
3) I STILL get a buzzing under the hood when I turn the car off! I've read a bunch of threads about potential ABS issues and the buzzing? Sound right? I'll try pulling the fuses/associated relays to see if it stops, but this sounds common, but the solution never seems to be presented in the other threads...also NO it isn't from under the dash and it DOESN'T shut off over time (not the fan).

Help again folks? Either way RPM Motorsports hooked me up quickly and got me closer to good. After all, without the new EWS, I'd still be stuck in the driveway.

Thanks!

(2005 R50 by the way)

 

Great news. Well again I would tell you to pull the codes.

 

The buzzing could be the electronic throttle body closing down when you power off the car. Can you put up a video of the sound?

 

1) After I got my stuff back from RPM, my SES was on, but a minute with the OBD2 scanner cleared it and it didn't come back.
2) The Yellowish "Broken circle" light is likely the Low-tire light. It also serves the function of telling you there's a problem with the ABS..in my case (because I swapped a manual trans into my CVT R50), after RPM was done the ABS module needed to be recoded to "know" it shouldn't expect a signal from the CVT module. Until then...a light will stay on. RPM has a fix, but we haven't been able to connect yet for a remote reprogramming session.
3) I've had a buzzing sound like you describe since I've owned the car, and all I can tell you is that a) it isn't a problem, and b) it is related to the very front 5 amp fuse inthe engine bay, which also powers your SES and OBD2 port.

 

I'll scan the OBDII tonight when I get home. I'll write down the codes and then clear them and see what happens.

I do likely have low tire pressure as the car has been sitting for about 3 weeks, so that could be an easy fix too.

Thanks again everyone.

 

More *UPDATES* and the hits keep coming:

So the updated EWS and DME allow for the car to run, but now the SES light is accompanied by the wonderful "EP" on the dash. RPM thinks it might be due to the recent reprogram. I drove it about 2 miles and it was all one gear and getting home at 4.5-6k on the tach was loud and unsettling.

Can I reset this CVT? It drives (poorly) so I don't think there is anything going on here but an electrical/computer issue.

This is starting to drive me insane.

 

Njmop,
Is it possible to "manually" shift the car in the sport mode? It certainly sounds like a computer problem to me. Can you set up a remote session with RPM to diagnose?

 

No different in Sport. Doesn't "shift" +/-.

I bought a INPA compatible cable off of Amazon and never got any further in INPA software than registering a black circle on the screen for the battery. I just re-installed the software on an XP machine so I can try to communicate with the car when I get home tonight. If I get this XP machine to work, I guess a remote session could be possible.

I am waiting on the RPM response, but they seemed to indicate a remote session wouldn't be necessary.

I am decent at working on cars, I've rebuilt a VW, currently tearing down and rebuilding a classic Mustang and almost never bring my other cars (FJ&CX7) to the shop. This MINI is really showing me that computers rule the world. I am also good with computers (in general) but there is a bit of a learning curve with this "BMW" machine.

Once I get the INPA software/hardware working I hope to better figure out the general problems.

 

My CVT behaved the same way before I replaced it with a 6-speed manual. A tranny tech told me later that given my symptoms he felt certain it was the speed sensor, an externally replaceable part. I didn't bother finding out, since I don't like automatics, anyway.
FYI, if you swap to a manual, you will discover just how much computers rule the world! Each individual module in the car will need to be reprogrammed to understand that it is now a manual trans. car. As long as they are expecting a signal from the CVT, they'll behave in all kinds of funny ways.

 

I tried to do the adaptation on my CVT. I tried a bunch of times and the EP never went to XP. I think it needs to be cleared in the computer before the clutch adaptation and I dont have that capability.

Anyway, my car pushed 13 obd2 codes today (like 1692, 1611, 1612 and bunch of others). So, I cleared them all (but 1611 wouldn't clear) and I actually disconnected my CVT computer thing (under dash) and the buzzing under the hood stopped!

I reconnected it, the EP turned to P, then D and the car drove like a champ! I went to get a new parking lamp bulb at the local parts store and got stuck in the parking lot! EP turned on again and now top speed only 10 mph! In the lot I reset the computer, tried (again) adaptation on cvt (no XP again), disconnected the battery. After an hour and 5 restarts/resets, the car sputtered and got me home with a top speed of 30 mph. WHEN THE CAR HAD THE "D" ON THE DASH IT RAN GREAT! That was about 10 minutes.

This is killing me. I am thinking the CVT computer is the root cause here. I need more help. If anyone in NJ (I am in Monmouth county) can do a CVT adaptation and read (and interpret) these BMW specific codes, I'd appreciate some help.

If someone can recommend a shop, that'll help, or I may go to Mini of Monmouth and hope for the best.

 

Well, in one way that's good news- you know that the CVT is mechanically sound, and it does sound like an electronics glitch. So you are looking at hundreds of dollars instead of $ 8000+.

 

OK: Update.

After fixing the EWS (RPM Motorsports replacement), buying a CAN cable, downloading INPA, figuring out that pins 7/8 needed to be soldered together, re-installing INPA 2 more times and learning how to properly read and clear codes, I was left with TWO final things to figure out.

1: Yellow dash light (brake sensor…)
2: EP on Dash. Often would go from D to EP back to D.
Symptoms included hard downshifting of RPMs going and staying at 6K, no Sport shifting and feeling like I was stuck in 3rd gear.

Fix #1: Went online bought 4 discs, 2 sets of pads (Bosch Quiet Stops), and 2 Brake sensors. Besides the disc screws being all but rotted into place (basically hammered two of them off and had to drill on out), I got them out and replaced everything. The light needed to be RESET on the dash. Turned the key to ON (don’t start) and wait about 30-seconds. Turn it off, start the car, gone. Thanks internet.

Fix #2: EP, I read articles, user group discussions, tech manuals, called the local dealer (guess what they said? “We don’t fix CVTs, we only replace them. Other Mini Parts dealers online get their parts from the Transmission manufacturers directly, so that is the best way to get parts. Look for a transmission shop that works on them.” Thanks.

I did at least 3 CVT adaptations, none of which took for very long without going back to EP. (I used europeantransmissions and the Mini manual versions I got online. Easiest way was to clear CVT adaptation using INPA and then following their instructions (cold start, P/D 10x, etc., send PM if you want the reference material).

SO, I an earlier post someone stated “read the code” and Mr. “GKNORR” from NAM helped encourage me with info and insight and said “read the codes”. Even though the dash stored no codes, the EP was documented with the following:

E R R O R M E M O R Y R E P O R T
-------------------------------------
Date: 07/17/13 19:40:31
ECU: EMS2K
JobStatus: OKAY
Variant: EMS2K
-------------------------------------------------------------
RESULT: 1 errors in error memory !
-------------------------------------------------------------
1825 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
Error frequency : 14
Distance since last MIL, DBW or EP 3.00 km
Engine Speed 2351.00 rpm
Gear Status 1.00
Engine Coolant Temperature 99.00 Deg C
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 999.15 hPa
signal out of range
sporadic error
================================================== ===========

So, I looked at the trans diagram online and decided to pull the Speed Sensor in the transmission.
Quick version: Pull battery, remove battery box and it’s right there below. A metal pin holds the connector to the wiring harness (don’t lose it, use some needle nose pliers and boom it’s off), 10mm sock removes the sensor from trans. Nothing leaks if it’s not running so no messy worries.

It looked fine until I noticed a small break in the connection, on the sensor side. I will try to upload a photo, but the ENTIRE set of wires were either fried or corroded green and no longer shielded! I mean toasted! Can’t believe the car didn’t scream more at me!

I ordered the speed sensor MINI part: 24357518732 and the o-ring is 24357518749 (don’t buy it, it comes with it, I wasted $8) from Classic MINI and got 20% off as NAM member.

Spent less than $250, installed it in 10 minutes, put battery and box back in for a total of about an hour labor. Started the car, no codes, lights, nothing. Took it out for a spin and the shifting is clean and smooth.

Is this your CVT problem? I don’t know. I called my local dealer for the part before classic Mini and they said in 3 years, they haven’t used or sold 1 of these sensors. I think Classic Mini found 12 in the US, so they aren’t really common.

I looked at my shifter, the circuit board next to the shifter and did adaptations on the CVT and it was this shorted out sensor.

Lesson learned. Read the codes and do it again and again. They are stored in the computer and now I know.

 

Good result! You get the Densmini Prize for stubbornness, persistence and dedication to cheapness. And I mean all that in the most complimentary way!

 

So i get the following 14.x codes:

904833
914833
512814
50281E
202818

Can anyone identify the codes?

 

Hi, Nicholasterry,
I'm sorry, but I don't recognize those codes. Couldn't find them in the Bentley manual, either.

 

Hmmmm... Odd. Where did you get that manual? Where can I get a copy?

Also, Mini diagnosed my key as bad. I get a chime when I turn to the 1st position. The starter spins. Im about to plug in a noid sensor to check for fuel signal. Any ideas? Is this my immobilizer? Does the immobilizer allow the starter to spin if the key is bad?

 

Hi, Nicholasterry,
This is a pre-08 Mini, correct? The immobilizer will allow the starter to spin. Normally, the chime is your signal that the EWS (the immobilizer) has recognized your key and so that part of the equation seems to be okay. However, if Mini says your key is bad, will they pay for the new one if they misdiagnosed? It's been a few years, but I think it was $ 80 to get one made for me.
Anyway, try this: open your door and hold the key next against the ignition switch (that rubber ring around it) without inserting it. If you hear a chime, your should be okay.
In theory, the EWS shuts off the ground to both the fuel injectors and the coil. You can check spark with a cheap spark tester from Harbor Freight, although a noid light is not expensive and a tool worth having in any case.
I bought my Bentley manual from Amazon. Can't remember how much, but it was a while ago. You'll probably be able to find used one by now. The back is full of all the generic and Min-specific codes that turn up on an OBD code reader. I'll look again, but I only saw 4-digit codes. Yours are 5-and-6-digit with letters in there sometimes, too.

 

The code I got was from the speedometer in the center using the tESt menu , not the OBD computer from the port (unless they are the same thing)

Also, this all started when the car suddenly stopped running. A few weeks ago, I started the car in my driveway and it shut off suddenly about 30 seconds later while idling... Does that make a difference?

EDIT: There is no chime with the drivers door open and the fob of the key pressed up to the switch.... No chime....

 

Hmm. Maybe somebody with experience with the tESt codes can chime in here. (Sorry, couldn't resist).
Do you have another key? Try it, too. Check obvious stuff like fuses. It may indeed be that your key has somehow lost its sync with the EWS, although it's hard to imagine how. There is an antenna in that ring around the ignition switch that activates the transponder chip in your key. Unless you've had the steering column apart, it's pretty safe.
Sorry, you've tapped me out.
I can recommend RPM Motorsports in BC, Canada. They were really helpful to me.
Sorry I'm not more help. Best to you!

 

DO you have a Url for RPM Motorsports? I googled them but there are 3 in the country.

 

It's been a few years, and I haven't contacted them so I don't know their address. I do know that they were Vancouver, Canada-based at the time. Best of luck!

 

i got the same issues in R52 error code 1656 ews incorrect and gear stuck in 3rd gear EP mode how to fix it?

 

Hello , just curious did you ever tried to program your key?

 

need help

 

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