Well yea, there is that

Bryan

 

Update: 5-2-2019

So far have put about 300 miles on the car since getting it running......tires are sorely needed, they are hard and square....and the trans still has a gear "clash" when shifting to 4th in either direction

A few things I noticed about the car during my little drives around here, it's kinda hard to see what's behind you while backing up with the top up....the car really needs a back up camera system.....I guess that's why the parking distance control system was standard on the R52......

The Navigation system is a pain in the butt to program an address into it......I finally received the Nav instruction booklet from eBay, guess I need to sit down and read it and figure out if this Nav system is worth it or not.....I found a Chrono pack, actually a couple of them, but nothing "close" to the mileage on my car at just over 108,000 miles......I also heard that "maybe" some of the lights may or may not work if I swap out to a Chrono pac.....still on the fence with this....

The car still needs "accurate gauges" to monitor engine vitals....extrapolated readings from the ECM are not all that accurate, which is why I have not pulled the trigger on a Chrono pack yet. Plus I have to find the dash bezel without the chrome lip on the bottom of the center gauge pod because I have the NAV system

Now, with all that said, I'm getting a DSC light that shows up every now & then when I drive the car. The code reads as follows: 5E19 - CAN data fault from DME / DDE (DSC lamp on as long as error is present)
I did a rather extensive search on this, nothing definitive was ever found. One guy said he removed the electrical connector plug from the ABS unit under the hood at the cowl and then plugged it back in, and his light has stayed out.....so I tried that, nope, light still comes on every now & then. I'm wondering if it's because of my two different tire sizes I have on the car, smaller diameter tires on the front, larger on the rear.....hey, it's the way I got the car, not my doing.....when I get tires, all 4 will be the same, and round I hope

If anyone has a direction for me to pursue that DSC code, let me know please...otherwise I'm going to find a way to remove that light from the tachometer.....permantly

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,
Typically the reason it starts acting like this, it is due to the left front abs sensor. It may just be loaded with iron dust, or is going out all together. Just buy and Amazon abs sensor, they are cheap, I use them all the time and they work well for me. This is a cheap and easy part to change and sometimes it is just due to the blue plug pins being bent or corroded. Then you will have to put usually about 60 miles on it , or less for the light to remain off.
The two tire sizes may have something to do with it resetting and coming on again, as the rear passenger side abs sensor carries so weight also.

 

Brian,

I took one look at the 13 yo nav in my car and bought a mount for my cell phone. My nav screen displays data, that's it.

I Read everything I could find on a chrono swap, and haven't found a successful one yet. I'm more inclined to do the swap to permanently install a tablet in the nav space.

I don't know what could be causing the light, but I have a thought-why don't you swap wheels and tires from the 04 onto the R52 for a few days to see if the problem goes away?Not easy, but it's free. 😄

 

Thanks Wayne....I may just try a LF sensor, I found some that are around $11 each....hell, at that price and free shipping from California, I might just buy all 4 sensors, I know they are the same as my '04 R53 as well.....with two MINI's, one is bound to fail at some point

Yea, I understand what yer saying about the NAV system....I did read the owners booklet that I got from eBay....my head still hurts....I did think of swapping the wheels & tires from my '04 R53, but that's a lot of work for my hurting back at this point....plus my R53 has 12mm wheel studs and the R52 has 14mm wheel bolts....I'm not sure if the wheels would interchange because of the lug bolt & stud sizes being different. I may not worry about doing the swap, I just need to get a few more $$ together and I'll have the $400 for the 215-45-17's from Discount Tire

Bryan

 

Update: 5-3-2019

Was a decent day today, so I installed the JCW badge on the left side of the trunk lid, and removed the "COOPER" from the right side and installed the "R52" badge. Plus I also got an SOS pad and cleaned up the JCW exhaust tips

Yes, I know the JCW badge on the left is the newer style, it's all I could find. I also have the matching front in the newer style also.....I figured only the purists would know the difference, and I don't care

I think I'm just gonna put a red 1156 bulb in the early style back up light housing and just wire it in to my brake lights for now....."IF" I ever take the interior out again, I'll run the fog light wire up front

Bryan

 

Update: 5-7-2019

Not much new to report on the car....it's been a great few days up here, and I have just been taking the car out and driving around with the top down and enjoying the weather for now. I still need tires, when I get those, I'm sure the ride will be better and more enjoyable.

So far everything is working fine, except the Homelink mirror and the push buttons to lock & unlock the car.....I'm thinking a bad circuit board in the mirror is at fault, and the dealer agrees with me.

The HK radio system works great with the top down at speed, car has no major knocks or rattles except the one somewhere around the upper dash pad where it meets the center NAV system gauge pod.....not really heard unless the top is up and the windows are closed.....it's just annoying as hell while driving. Kinda like my sunroof plastic trim in my R53 at times....both are the same sound and bugs the hell outta me.

Bryan (enjoying top down motoring)

 

Update: 5-11-2019

Well, another setback.....I swear this little R52 hates me......I took the wife out for a nice drive today....everything was working fine, we were going down the freeway and was taking the off-ramp to get on another freeway when all of a sudden the car just lost power.....like someone turned the key off....I tried giving gas, nothing happened....so I got off to the shoulder of the freeway and pushed the clutch in...engine was still running....check engine light was on, so was my DSC light, but I'm ignoring that one for now. So I shut the car off and restarted it....check engine light still on. I was able to feather the gas pedal to get up to minimum speed on the freeway to try and get to the next exit ramp and head for home. Car is kinda missing & sputtering while giving gas and trying to hold a steady speed. Decided to take the back roads home, didn't want to take a chance on the freeway again. Mind you we were almost 15 miles from home at this point. We made it home and I got my scanner out to check codes.

Code 1688 / not present DME: electronic throttle monitoring level 2/3 Air mass calculation error

Code 107 / present DME: Absolute pressure in intake manifold - input low

So I did some research on the web and most are saying that my front crankshaft damper is bad, as in broken apart and not spinning the supercharger correctly.....most even had both codes in there as well......does this sound plausible? The pulley on there now was either my bad engines pulley or it came from the new (used) wrecking yard motor.....I can't find the other stock damper I thought I had, but I have not looked all that hard for it either

So I'll do some investigating on the pulley issue, probably even take it off and inspect it better. If it comes off in two pieces, I guess I have found my problem

So if the pulley is bad, any suggestions for a new one? I really don't want to go back to OE style if these are gonna break again.....I have read plenty about a solid damper....where's the best value? I don't want to spend a ton of money on this, but I want a decent part.....what about a 2% pulley on the JCW engine??

I suppose I should start worrying about my R53's pulley now? Never had an issue with that car...only this R52

Input and ideas welcome here guys.....the car is dead in the garage again for a while now until I can figure this issue out now

Bryan (getting frustrated again)

 

Wow, this car is really making things difficult for you.

I suggest an ATI, but a PRW fluid gel damper is also good, and a better value. ATI and PRW both have a 2% that will go well with your JCW pulley, and the "stock" size ATI is actually about .8% bigger than stock.

 

I found a PRW fluid damper on Amazon for around $236 I think....then there's shipping and tax

I'm going to try to get the Crank pulley off the car tomorrow and inspect it, then make a decision at that point

Thanks, Bryan

 

Bryan,
The stock ones always go bad! It is a given!
Use either one. I used the PRW fluid dampener, but the ATI is a good choice too!
They are both way over priced, for what they are. I think I paid $192 for the PRW.
Can not remember the ATI, but I think it is a bit more, which makes no sense!
I think the PRW does a better job of dampening.

 

Thanks guys.....I have not had a chance to remove the crank pulley yet.....I had big plans for today, but I got up this morning and have a kidney stone giving me fits right now.....so the car and my other plans are on hold for the moment.

Anyway, I have found 3 pulleys that I am considering....any input is appreciated....now keep in mind that this R52 JCW car is basically a completely stock car except the wheels....and I'm not 100% sure that we are even keeping this car past the coming summer.....so with that said, my findings and prices are below.....give me opinions here

1) Cravenspeed 2% solid aluminum pulley from Way Motor Works - price is $139.50 + $10.00 shipping = $149.50

2) Alta 2% lightweight pulley from eBay - price is $126.00 + $12.60 tax = $138.60 (free shipping) (pulley looks like an old wagon wheel with 6 spokes in it)

3) PRW 2510900 SFI damper from Amazon - price is $232.99 + $23.30 tax = $256.29 (free shipping)

From what I have read, I guess a new crank bolt is in order as well....so that might be another $15 from what I have researched

If anyone has another option or maybe an idea on any of the above for a better price, please let me know......this little incident is dipping into my tire money for the car....

Thanks to all so far.....

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,
I really do not recommend the solid pulley, as the dampener pulley will help to preserve the main bearings.
Wow, I never think about tax payments, as we have no taxes on items here (except new cars now have a 2% tax! What is with that?)
I hope you find the best answer to get this fixed!
This car has fought you, but you are close to getting it sorted now!

 

I live in a state where we get taxed for breathing the air up here. Amazon charges me sales tax because they have a warehouse and operating headquarters up here. Ebay starting charging me sales tax beginning in 2019 on any purchases made by me from anywhere in the world, they take an extra 10% out of my PayPal account from anything I buy.

I kinda figured you were gonna say not to get the solid pulley for the crankshaft.....the $271 + is a steep price to pay in my book....that's almost 3/4 of my tire money.....do you or anyone know of another less expensive outlet to get the SFI damper & bolt from or maybe an equivalent and comparable piece??

I still have not got the crank pulley off of the R52 to verify it's actually bad or broken.....I have been fighting with a kidney stone all last night and the better part of today......I have had them before, but this one is one of the worst that I have had......

Thanks for your input......

Bryan (heading back to bed now a 3 in the afternoon)

 

Hi Bryan
Look at these:

 

Thanks Wayne...that helps a lot.....so, in your opinion and vast knowledge, I suppose any of those 4 single pulleys that has the rubber ring in the middle would be OK to use? I'm trying not to be cheap here, I want the pulley to be correct and last for a while.....I'm just shocked at the prices of the SFI dampers for these little cars......

Bryan

 

Although Amazon says they’ll fit an S, those look like Justa crank pulleys. I realize descriptions aren’t
always accurate, but the Bapmic only lists Justas in the title, and looking up the URO part number at ECS Tuning only shows non S fitment.

Pretty sure this is a case where the Amazon “will it fit” is not correct. I would double check the fitment before ordering.

 

The others are also supposed to fit R53 engines, even the bapmic, says it fits R53, you will have to check, but says it will fit. I have never bought one though.
any of them would be good for the short haul!

 

I was under the impression that the engines were basically the same from the cylinder head down....same block and crank, at least the snout of the crankshaft, or am I missing something here?

Bryan

 

A Justa pulley might physically fit, but going by the fact that the engines came with different pulley designs from the factory there must be a reason why it's not a good idea to use one on an S.

Hopefully someone with a lot of mechanical experience with these engines will reply on whether it will fit and the pros and cons of using one it it does.

 

None of the ones I have listed in the recent post, are a long time answer and I know Bryan knows that. He is not even sure, if he will keep the R52, so putting on an inexpensive one is not the end of the world. The real difference in the crankshafts: The S uses a steel one while the Justa uses a cast iron one. There may be a difference in balance control, but I am sure the cast crank needs more to balance it. Other than that, I really don't know much else. Like I said, I have never used one, but if I was in Bryans zone, I would possibly try it, if the car may be going to a sale! Not much sense to pay the big bucks for one!

 

Good points RB-MINI & Wayne.....I still have not had a chance to pull the pulley off my car yet.....a couple health issues have basically stopped me in my tracks.....the R52 is home in the garage for now......I'll continue to research the pulley dilemma when i can.....I'm sure by the time I get back to working on the car, that the prices of the pulleys have not doubled, at least I hope not

Bryan

 

Update: 5-15-2019

Felt good enough today to pull the crank pulley off the car.....nothing wrong with it, not broken, separated, or cracked.....I even tried putting a small flat blade screwdriver between the two halves of the pulley assembly....it's nice and tight with no movement.

Good thing I didn't buy a new SFI damper already......so, back to the drawing board....I guess install the damper back on the car and see if I can find out actually what went wrong here....

I swear this car is possessed and hates me

Bryan

 

Glad you are feeling better. Sorry for the disappointing discovery.

I'm waiting on a part to determine if I diagnosed correctly. Car started puking coolant the first warm day last week. I wrote it off as just clearing some of excess doe to the temp change. It did it again Sunday on the way home from church. I couldn't find an obvious leak, and the whole backside of the engine compartment had coolant, starting up high. I didn't have time to do much diagnosing, so I ordered a new coolant reservoir and cap, which will be here Friday. Hope that fixes it.

 

Yea, not finding a bad pulley was kind of a letdown for sure.....

On your car, I would make sure that the radiator cooling fan works at both speeds......also, could you feel the top radiator hose to see if it was hot or cold? Might be a sticking thermostat as well

Bryan