Fan should be working; we installed new resistor when I had the big service done in January. A fan was running the other day when I pulled into the garage and shut it off. I don't have a temp gauge installed, but never saw an idiot light come on. I thought about thermostat... but had zero seconds to try to do any diagnosis when I shut it down. By the time I got around to it, the engine was cold. I'm still learning my away around this engine compartment, what with the motor turned sideways and all, and the plethora of coolant hoses. The reservoir was empty, there was coolant almost that high in places, and I've been wanting polished tanks anyway, so I ordered one. I had already pulled the tank in an attempt to see if I could find the source of a link. Not going to put it back in to troubleshoot.

I went with the Canton tank, with a Stant cap (can walk into any parts store and pick up a replacement, rather than having to order if a cap fails again) and nipple for an overflow line. It was on sale, and cheaper than the tank that uses the factory cap. Plus, I'd like to have an overflow line that I can drop to the bottom of the engine compartment. That way, if I'm wrong on my blind diagnosis and it pukes again, I don't have the whole engine compartment wet.

Good thing I can walk most of the places I need to go. I thought I was going to be able to start working on the Mustang again this weekend, but that's at least somewhat delayed.

How's the Daytona coming? Don't let the demonic R52 throw you off for your trip!

 

Making slow progress on the Daytona.....and at this point...I'm not 100% sure that I will be able to make the trip down south......time will tell

Bryan

 

Mini from Hell Update: 5-18-2019

Was a nice day today, got a little yard work done....had to have some help from family members though......anyway, after that, I was looking at the R52 sitting on jack stand in the garage, figured it wasn't gonna put itself together, so I put the stock crank pulley back on, (actually is was a spare I had here from the original engine, and it is good also). After putting the pulley, belt, inner fender, and the right wheel & tire back on, I decided to take it out for another drive after I cleared the codes that were in the ECM from the last time. I started the car, seemed to run fine, has a slight hesitation or stumble when I blip the gas pedal sitting in the garage......not bad, but noticeable.

Took the car out and seemed to run OK at this point....I'm not driving it hard right now.....after a few more miles, it's doing OK.....almost home and I got on it a little more.....then it happened, car just loses all power and I have no throttle control, but the engine never dies.....I coast to a stop, and it seems like it's missing and idling on two cylinders, still have no throttle response when I give it gas. Check engine light is on, DSC light is on, and I'm on the side of the road and can't go anywhere. So I shut the car off for a minute and then restart it.....lights in the dash are still on, but engine idles fine, and I have some throttle response now.

So I get the car home, plug my scanner into the OBD II connector and scan for codes, has the same two codes as before in my post above, 1688 & 107 for the engine, plus the same one for the DSC light, and a couple for the tail and brake lights due to the car having LED's in the rear, ( I ignore those for now)....so I tell the scanner to clear all codes, but the 107 code will not go away, Code is: Code 107 / present DME: Absolute pressure in intake manifold - input low......I tried to clear it again, still there. So I shut the key off completely, remove the scanner, and start over again.....

The code 107 will not go away.....and I have not started the engine after getting home.....it will not clear at all......right now I'm leaning towards a bad MAP sensor, and I don't have a spare, the one on the new engine that I got was broken, so I gotta do a little more research and see what I can find......

So that's my excitement for the day....I hope the MAP sensor is the problem....at least it's cheaper than a new crank damper.....

I have an '88 Dodge Shadow with over 225,000 miles, I had a bad MAP sensor on that car just a while ago, and it had the same "stumble" when I gave it gas also.....I know that's not the proper way to diagnose a poor running car....but it's at least a starting point & direction for now

Bryan

 

Man, Bryan, I am praying hard for you to get to enjoy this car. You deserve it after the spring you've had. I got nothing to offer on the diagnostic side. Just bummed that you couldn't enjoy top-down motoring today.

 

Yea....so am I....and the wife...she really likes the car

Just another update about the MAP sensor....I did find the one that came on the wrecking yard engine I purchased last year for the car....the sensor has one of the two mounting tabs broken off...but I think I'm gonna try it and see if it cures my running problem. I found new MAP sensors on the web & part stores for $18 to just under $100.....if this used one I have here fixes my problem, I'll make a decision as to which new sensor to get

Bryan (relaxing in the house watching the cottonwood seeds fly all over outside...looks like it's snowing)

 

Quick update: 5-19-19

Installed the extra MAP sensor that has one of the mounting ears broken off this morning.....cleared the codes, and the P0107 code finally cleared & stayed off before starting the engine......buttoned everything up and took the car out for a drive.....drove the same route as yesterday and did a few full throttle bursts as yesterday.....so far so good....car did not cut out and go into limp mode.....kept driving and did a few more full throttle bursts down the roads close to my house......still running fine......so I think that my MAP sensor was bad and causing the P1688 & P0107 codes......I also noticed that my DSC light is still off as well.....when the car cut out and all but died, the DSC light would come on along with the check engine light......

I'll keep driving it and see if the DSC light stays off or not....if it comes back on, I'll take Wayne's advice and try a left front ABS sensor

I think I'll just order another MAP sensor and keep it here for a spare.....both my cars take the same sensor, so for under $25 for a new one, I'll be happy that one is here

Bryan (hoping this is fixed and I can get tires on the car now)

 

Sounds good! I hope it keeps going now! Sorting out all the issues you have had with this car makes you a Master Mini Maniac! Keep up the good fight!
I have worked on several cars with maf/map sensor issues and 2/3rds of them were running oiled air filters. It is not the oil, that causes the problem, but the accumulation of dust repeatedly mounting up on the sensor. I have argued this to death with some people, but it is my finding! I only use paper ones now and it really does not seem to matter what brand you use!

 

I'll second what Wayne said about oiled filters. My 95 Mustang GT had one, and MAF sensor was a problem. Part of my routine maintenance (until I bought a new filter) was to clean the wires in the sensor with alcohol and a qtip. You might try that on your take off before you buy a new sensor.

Glad it worked out!

My coolant leak wasn't the catch can. 😞

 

As a retired auto mechanic with over 40 years under my belt in the trade, I have seen my fair share of drivability issues related to the "oiled air filters" in customers cars. Many times I have had to clean throttle body plates because of the dirt and oil grime that collected on the throttle butterflies. I will never run a so called "high performance filter" in any of my cars.

The cone filter in the R52 JCW looks like a K&N style, but I'm never going to oil it.....

Appreciate all the help and support in this endeavor, and I'm sure there's gonna be more "issues" with this car, thanks again

I'm going to local Discount Tire store tomorrow and finalize my choice of tires for this car

Bryan

 

Update: 5-20-2019

Got new tires on the car today....went with 215-45-17 tires.....cost was just over $400

Got home and the wife & I went out to lunch .......on our way home the steering wheel was shaking at about 50 MPH.....(I checked the lug bolt torque after I got home from the tire store, I didn't want another wheel falling off.....I'm a little gun-shy about that now)......anyway, I called the store and told them there's a problem, and this wasn't present with the old rock hard tires they took off.......

I'll go back tomorrow and let them check it out.....I have a feeling that the kids up there don't know how to balance a specialty wheel & tire combination

Bryan (picture of old tire and wheel for reference)

 

Quick update: 5-21-2019

Went back up to the tire store this morning, the manager greeted me as I walked into the store.....he asked for the key and I asked if he wanted to take a ride with me to see what it was doing. He said that he was just gonna pull the car in and recheck all the wheel & tires for balance......I reminded him that this issue was not there with the old tires, so I said that either there is a problem with the tires themselves, or a problem with his "tire guy" in operating the shop balancer......he raised the car up, took all the wheels off, and checked all 4 wheels

After he got done with the balancer and was putting the wheels back on the car, I asked what he found......he said that the rears had way too much weights on each wheel, and the fronts were not installed in the correct location......sounds like a little "wheel & tire balance training" is in order for someone at that store

Left the store and took a little drive home the long way around.....drives much better now......no more steering wheel wobble......next stop, alignment time

So with all that said, please stay tuned for my next project with this R52 called, "OPERATION: CHRONO-PACK INSTALL"

Bryan (teaser picture below)

 

Quote: Went back up to the tire store this morning, the manager greeted me as I walked into the store.....he asked for the key and I asked if he wanted to take a ride with me to see what it was doing. He said that he was just gonna pull the car in and recheck all the wheel & tires for balance......I reminded him that this issue was not there with the old tires, so I said that either there is a problem with the tires themselves, or a problem with his "tire guy" in operating the shop balancer......he raised the car up, took all the wheels off, and checked all 4 wheels

After he got done with the balancer and was putting the wheels back on the car, I asked what he found......he said that the rears had way too much weights on each wheel, and the fronts were not installed in the correct location......sounds like a little "wheel & tire balance training" is in order for someone at that store

Left the store and took a little drive home the long way around.....drives much better now......no more steering wheel wobble......next stop, alignment time : End Quote

They are directional tires and running them the wrong way is a no no! I have seen the unknowing tire balancer guy mess this up too! He needs some real training!

 

I didn't purchase directional tires ....the kid just needs to know how to balance wheels and tires the correct way

Bryan

 

I took a break today from working on the R52 and did a little upgrade to the R53 ......I installed an AUX cable to the radio's head unit because my 6 disc CD changer that was mounted in the trunk died.....I bought a $9 AUX cable from eBay, and now I have a working AUX input for the silver R53

My R52 already has the AUX input inside the glove box.....it works as well

Still writing up my paper on the Chrono swap.....

Bryan

 

Loving that things are coming together finally!

So, Chrono swap--DID YOU GET THIS TO WORK??? IF SO, TAKE ALL MY MONEY, I'M IN!!!!!!!!!

 

Update: 5-24-2019

Got an appointment for next Thursday to get the R52 aligned....I'm also going to request that the factory spec of -3* camber be changed to something around -1* or so......

Husky44, I'm still working on the Chrono swap, my write up should be posted this weekend, I hope

So, today I did a little exterior modification to the car.....I also broke one of my smoked side marker lenses in the process....now I gotta order another set.....sigh

I got this idea from another thread somewhere in this forum.....I saw the picture and really liked it, so I made my own JCW scuttles for my car. I got the scuttles from member wolf3142 here in this forum....ordered the chrome small JCW metal badges and spent a little time putting this all together. I had to modify each of the fluid washer bottles for the mounting nut to clear and not interfere with putting the completed scuttle back into the car.

Pictures are below, pretty self explanatory

Bryan

 

Very nice!!

 

Yea, I think it turned out pretty good.... I got the idea from a few pictures that were posted elsewhere in this group forum, it was of a green Mini. I think that this was the very first exterior JCW badging attempt for the very early cars over in the homeland. I may have even saved the picture, somewhere....

Thanks again for the scuttles, I actually like my homemade JCW badging better than the stock "S" scuttles that came on the car

Bryan

 

Update: 5-27-2019

Put the new MAP sensor in this morning......now even before starting up the engine I get a P1239 code saying that "pressure sensor, intake manifold before compressor - input too low with engine stopped"

I can't even clear this code at all....car runs kinda bad....so I put the spare sensor that I had here with the broken mounting ear back in and the P1239 code went away......sounds like I got a defective sensor right out of the box......I contacted the parts outlet that I got it from and sent them a note about this issue, waiting for a reply now

Bryan

 

Update: 5-30-2019

Went to start the car yesterday, acted like it wanted to fire the plugs to soon, like way too much ignition timing. It did start, but set an engine code for the camshaft sensor. That sensor was a new one I bought when I was putting the new engine in last year. I had the OE sensor that I saved from the bad engine that was in the car when I bought it.

So I jacked up the front of the car, put a jack stand under the right front, and proceeded to remove the aluminum engine mount bracket to gain access to the cam sensor. Took the new one out and installed the OE sensor back in. Put the engine mount bracket back on, and just as I was installing the frame to bracket ground wire, the mounting tab on the aluminum bracket broke off just as I was tightening the ground nut, just great

No way to fix it, looked around and put the end of the cable on one of the bolts that holds the alternator bracket to the block, it's the bolt right behind the dipstick pull handle. I'm not going to replace the "U shaped" engine mount bracket, the cable is just fine bolted to the block where it is now.

Cleared the code, engine starts right up now, will keep trying for the next few days.

The parts store that I got the new MAP sensor from refunded my money back, and they told me not to send this defective sensor back to them. I wasn't going to send it back anyway. I have a new OE BMW sensor coming, should be here next week, I'll just keep running this MAP sensor that has one mounting ear broke off for now and hope my runnability issue is cured.

On a more positive note, got the car alignment done this morning, from what the alignment guy said, it was pretty far out of alignment. Car drives and steers much better now, and no steering wheel vibration anymore at this point.

Time to give the car a bath and see how it does this weekend

I'm still trying to get the Chrono pack write up for anyone interested in doing the swap, just give me a little more time. I put the navigation system back in before I took the car for alignment, so now I can concentrate on getting the Chrono pack back in and deciding on whether to leave it in or not. All the details about the swap I will post here, but I need to get some yard work done and get back to work on the Daytona for my trip down south in October

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,
You have the distinct title of being the Mini Lush for Punishment!
It amazes me how many sensors are sold on the market, that are a total dog pile and go bad right away, or are NG when you put them in. I have done quite a few of these bad parts myself!
Keep us posted on your drive and give us another pic of your Daytona!
I worked for Chrysler in 68/69 and worked on a Daytona and many Road Runners and six pac cars for them! They had problems with the cam bearings not drilled (on the 440) for the oiling gallies (right off the deliver truck). They got me a long drill to run through the cam bearings, without removing them from the engine. I really had to bite my tongue with this action, but was new and young and did what I was told! They told me, if the engines went out after this, they would replace them under warranty. I was not good with this answer!
The other thing was the damage to your fingers, smashing the dash with the pistol grip 4 speed shifters. Then there were the water leaks. Every Chrysler product failed in this area too!
I still like them for the look and I think Chrysler won many points in those days, for coming out the high performance cars for us!
My other job was to turn back all the speedometers on all the used cars! Things were weird back in those days! Still I was paid well! LOL

 

I took a little break from working on the R52 JCW car today, decided to do some much needed yard work, tinkered with the '04 R53 today, (I'll post what I did in the appropriate forum section later)

So here's a couple teaser pics for Wayne......first couple of pics are what the car looks like now, the last one is what I am going to make it look like on the outside...I hope....the interior will still be "people friendly"

Bryan

 

Yeah! Cool!
It will look like the perfect tracked car of yesteryear. They are cool and I have people tell me they are ugly. I tell them there is beauty in ugly and if you know any history on them, then you would love them!

 

Update: 6-2-2019

I got my new MAP sensor on Friday, have not had time to put it in and see if it works yet, have had other things to do around here besides "The MINI from Hell".......the new sensor is an OE BMW brand for MINI & Land Rover.....brand new, in the box, and cheaper than what I paid for the aftermarket one that was defective right out of the box......

So, with that said, now it's time for "OPERATION CHRONO-PACK SWAP" that a few have been waiting for

I picked up a Chrono-Pack from a 2006 MINI a month or so ago, the chrono pack and my NAV system were made 2 months apart.....I really don't like the NAV system, pain in the butt to input address's .....

Here are my findings when I installed this Chrono-pack into my '06 R52

The mileage on the cars odometer will change to read the new center dash cluster's mileage, I went from 108,000+ down to 84,694 miles
My TPS or flat tire monitor light is always on now, I can not turn it off with the reset procedure
My DSC light is on all the time as well, throws a code saying VIN is different between old & new instrument cluster
Also have other codes in the speedometer cluster, and the steering angle modules because of VIN difference's
I cannot clear the codes at all
My back up warning system, or PDC system does not work anymore
I don't think the "Check gas cap" light will function either, I drove around for a while with the gas cap loose, light never came on
I had to get another dash bezel with the chrome rings because the NAV system takes a different bezel
All gauges in the Chrono Pack do work when I plugged the instrument cluster into my car. All the dash lights work and dim as they should.

Now this is what I have found when installing the Chrono pack on my car, your results may vary. I put my NAV system back in last week before I went to get the car aligned, not sure if it would have made a difference or not, but I didn't want to take a chance on the shop refusing to align the car due to the DSC and TPMS lights being on

Now, for a bit of good news I found out yesterday.....my neighbor down the street had a BMW 7 series car and he had a complete INPA program on his computer. We were talking about my car and in the swap I mentioned about the mileage and the codes being there after I did the swap.....he said his program was able to change the VIN and the mileage to what the car originally had for the new cluster install.....he's gonna try and get the program back from his brother who now has the BMW 7 series car......so I'm gonna wait until he can get the program & cable and I'll try this swap again and hope it all works correctly

Pictures below, not much to see that you all have not already seen.....

Bryan

 

Update: 6-6-2019

I installed the new BMW MAP sensor this morning and took the R52 out for a test drive before the rain came down.......car still cuts out briefly at about 3/4 throttle or higher, just like someone turns the key off and right back on.....the same two codes come back, P0107 and 5E19 - CAN data fault from DME / DDE (DSC lamp on as long as error is present)

Not sure what I'm gonna do now......I put another ignition coil on, but the rain came and stopped me from taking another test drive......I also have another throttle body and spare air intake bypass valve sitting here.....I just don't know what else to try.....as soon as the engine cuts out, the DSC light comes on right away and code 5E19 is stored right away.....maybe it's the T-MAP sensor....not sure

I thought I had this running issue fixed, guess not.....it has to be something simple or being overlooked, but I'm not having any luck right now.....

Bryan