I've tried to resist the me-too post, but can't.:smile:


I had the VGS added at the same time as the lightened crank pulley and JCW injectors. The GIAC server was down so I couldn't get that done on Saturday.

BIG difference. No bog, winds up quickly, tons more power, yo-yo gone.
I paid $18 for the install while the IC was off. That's a lotta improvement for $18.

 

Just finished up doing this mod. Thanks Andy. Worked well.
Cleaned out the oily IC while I was at it.

I now have an SES light. Anybody else see this?
I have a UniChip. I'll remove it tomorrow when I have time.

 

The number is the key as to why it threw a code. That the SES light went on could mean something, or then again not, and it will go off. There's also information in something called the "freeze frame" information. That will tell you RPM and a bunch of other information when the code was stored.

Without the scanner, you're just flying blind....

Matt

 

This is probably a stupid question but I have an oil-catch can installed and really don't know which hoses were modified to accomidate it since I had it installed. Are these hoses related in any way? I come from the old school Mini engine building where the only hose is the fuel line!

 

I have a Davis CarChip. That should trap the code. I'll plug that in tonight.

Thanks

 

the manifold vac system is independent from the crackcase venting system, or it better be!

 

As others mentioned, post up the code. Also, check for vacuum leaks at the interooler boots and at each vacuum line connection that you made.

 

Alll gone now. 10 restarts did it.

I'm betting this was it...20/20 hindsite.
I had turned the key to position 2 to see if the butterfly in the TB would close all the way. I had forgotten to reconnect the FWB connector.
It didn't BTW.

So thanks and don't do what I did

 

Almost 3 months and many thousands of miles later, mine's still working like a charm. No fault codes, no damage to the bypass diaphragm and overall fuel economy is unchanged compared to pre-VGS.

 

Everything is fine. If I didn't know it was there, I'd have no idea that the car wasn't stock. No codes, no trouble...... But I didn't have yo-yo before. I just couldn't understand why Mini routed the vacuum source the way they did. Seemed to me that it was ment to creat oscillations in the stock configuration.

Matt

 

Andy in the pic below is this a temp probe
for pre intercooler intake temp
if so how did you do that
did you have to cut the rubber and then seal it back up
i want to use the outside temp probe and measure the post intercooler temp
but wasnt sure how to get a good reading
and didnt want to cut holes in the ducts

 

I wouldn't recommend using the factory outside temp probe. Your charge temps get way hotter than ambient.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=23248

 

FWIW: I just converted my car with the Helix Turbokompressor kit on it. I was trying to improve low boost drivability. When running at maybe 5 to 20% throttle, with the boost between 0 and 5 pounds, the car was jerkier than a pulleyed car. I gave it a shot, with one slight modification which shall now be forever known as the Ericphix Gain System , and it made a remarkable difference in the low boost smoothness.

 

Oh DO tell us more about the EGS (Eric Gain System) Rye already has the 'phix' thing - be original.


My current implementation of the EGS is to eat and drink a lot, and I tell you, I've seen some significant gains!

 

To be super alternative, you could call it the "erycphyx," which not only looks cool, but also looks like it was written by a dyslexic (no offense to the dyslexic contingent among us).

Marty

 

em

 

Now that you ask, I will not tell you.



No it was nothing good, just tapping into an existing boost gauge vacuum line.

 

Like this? (posted 3 months ago), Chum.......p

 

I've got my SASE all ready to go....

--
Cheese

 

wow... simply no other word can best describe this small, but very affective mod. the new found smoothness is amazing and it feels theres extra power because of it. but andy, couldn't you just remove the nibble from the intake manifold and attached it to the tee and connect a smaller hose from the tee to the manifold with another nibble? this would lead to the same result, but without cutting the stock line right? well just trying to help and good job of figuring this out.

 

There is no need to cut anything but the 5/32 vacuum tubing you bought at the auto parts store.. One piece about 1 1/2" long for the manifold to T fitting and another about 18" for T fitting to BPV..
You must have seen the pictures, oh yes I believe we can say nipple on here

 

o wait, i was only looking at the diagram and i just assumed you cut the stock hose and insert the tee there. but anyways, its a very good mod... but one thing puzzles me. you know how the on-board computer tells the distance to empty... it usually reads 320 miles when i fill it up, but after the first fill up since i did the VGS its reading 375 miles... wow thats a huge gain for a simple mod.

 

Not sure if you will get quite that much. I can pretty much say now that I am getting about 1 MPG better in about 6 tanks since I did this though.

 

Yep, no need to cut any of the stock lines, so the VGS can be completely removed. I haven't noticed a gain in mileage but also haven't noticed a loss. Since my commute is so short, my mileage tends to be a) bad and b) different between tanks, that was both stock and modded. I'm helping a friend install a VGS on his car so I'll take some more detailed pics along the way.

 

Great!
Post those pics. I've read this thread twice (all 7 pages) and I'm getting ready to do my car this weekend!

Your pics will help me a lot!

thank you!