I also have a really short average commute. Like 4 miles each way with losts of little sub 1 mile trips around an office park thrown in. I'm usually around 20-21 now and was pretty consistenty 19-20 before the VGS. Not a great causal relationship but certainly enough to say it is no worse as Andy said.

 

Yeah, I am in the same boat. Almost sure I know which hose is which. Almost.

 

I'd really appreciate that, because I'm eager to try this. However, neophyte that I am, the mechanical inner-workings of my vehicle are still somewhat mysterious to me. I think I understand conceptually what is supposed to happen, but I'm having real difficulty translating the diagrams to actual parts of the car. I'd appreciate anything additional you (or anyone else) could do graphically to help me locate the appropriate hoses/nipples etc. without and/or with removal of the IC. Thanks

 

Andy? I think a lot of people look foward for those pics to be posted!

 

Chad, from Detroit Tuned sent me a very nice "how-to" about removing the intercooler and accessing the by-pass valve... I've ask him if I could post it on NAM... still waiting for an answer...

 

Thanks for the update-- If you are allowed to post it, please do!

And Andy, if you did find the time to take some pics and could find even more time to post them, it would be much appreciated.

 

Updated pics and instructions on page 1.

 

Now that's what I call helpful pics! I may even re-attempt this one now that I think I understand.
Thanks again, Andy. Well done.
Enjoy Yours!

 

Andy,

I had done the RP#2 about a year ago. I love what it has done for my car and I still have it. About two months ago, I installed the OBX header. One of the best buys I have done. Just great mod. At this point, the MCS was just everything that I wanted on response at the low end. I wanted to finish the exhaust system by doing the CatBack. I installed the REMUS exhaust, that is not a true CatBack system. I had to cut part of my original pipe to fit it. I love the sound and the high end increase. BUT, I could tell that I had lost some of the low end torque. No Dinos, just driving experience. I did a reset of the computer to see if this did not help. It did some, but not enough. I was ready to modify the REMUS to restict is some, just to try to tune it better, in a way that I could put it back to its normal state if I wanted to go back. Yes, I know how people feel about backpressure, I was one. But, I read this thread again and remember that Andy had some data on what RP#2 and VGS did to the BPV. Neither Ryan or Andy had done both, but suggested that both fixes should be closer to RP#1. It is only a few dollars and not a long time to do VGS, so I did it this past weekend.

The low end torque is back. The High end gains is still there. All the benefits that RP#2 and VGS promise, are there. A tad more responsive. Very smooth and quick acceleration, just a tad more than RP#2 alone. I am happy. My MPG has not gone lower than 25 in the city and I am yet to put enough miles on the Hwy to let you know how high I can go there. The 25 MPG can improve, if I was not driving as I am now.

I am NOT giving up my RP#2. I am keeping the VGS also. I believe that these two complement each other. I had done in the past the RP#1 and the combination of these two mods is not RP#1. I am posting on the VGS thread in hopes that Andy, who I know loves to get data, might investigate the mix for all of us. Maybe we can talk to Ryan into providing Andy one of his RP#2 's for R&D.

Hoping that we can talk about this without flaming each other.....

Bomboasy

PS. the photos were very helpful.... thanks.

 

Wow Andy thats the first time i've seen screen shots of the BiM Com Beta I know its off topic but what is it like looks good

 

Thanks a lot for posting the pics Andy!!

Very nice job and it makes it look so easy!

 

Hi, I have just carried out this mod to my 2002 MCS, whilst I was doing that I adjusted the stop and re centred the butterfly in the bypass valve so it shut fully. I was surprised at the increased urgency in acceleration, the power seemed to come in later on up the rev range but with more of a kick - more like a turbo than a s'charger. The only thing I have found is that lower rev response seems slighty flat and there is a noticable flatspot when I initially dab the throttle pedal. Is this normal? I temporarily put the vac pipes back to normal and the 'problem' went, so I don't think it has anything to do with the way I set up the butterfly valve. Any ideas? Comments?

 

I did the mod a couple weeks ago. I didn't have the time to center the butterfly though. What I have noticed that at 200o rpm I get a flat spot on deceleration. It is quite noticable. Otherwise it is great. I am not sure of mileage as the weather has become real hot and I am using the A/C more.

 

I (finally) did mine yesterday and the result is awesome!

First, you really need small hands and stong fingers to do this without pliers... Reaching the FPR hose and the bypass valve connection is really hard since it's tight for man's hands!

The difference is amazing... Before, the SC's boost was really not linear, and the pull was not smooth at all... After VGS, boost starts earlier and it feels a lot more powerful than before...

It took me about 2 hours to do all the work, but I took my time and cleaned the intercooler at the same time... (a little bit of oil, nothing scary!)

Bottom line, if you're reading this thread since a long time,and you're not sure yet, stop reading, and open your bonnet!

Andy, those pics really help! Great job and VGS rules

 

mmm... i seems that i forgot to re-center the butterfly in the bypass valve. is that something i have to do or can i just leave it. the engine is already smoother than before. another thing, i have 1000 more miles until the service, do i mention to the dealer about this or is it something we keep under our nose? i ask cuz they usually ask me if i have any mods in my car and if i say no and they find out during the service... well it will be kinda awkward.

 

You want to be sure that the butterfly in the BPV closes completely. You are leaving free horse power on the table. It will enhance any performance modification that you do in the MCS.

Bomboasy

 

I know this is a well discussed topic. but has anyone, like Andy or Ryan, contacted anyone that might have a real answer at MINI to see if there was a reason for having the butterfly adjusted so that it is slightly open. I am sure if the factory wanted the butterfly to close fully and completely that they would have. I am sure it is a vendor supplied item and if it wasn't right, they could reject it.

 

I just experienced some yo-yo with VGS. I can feel a jeark and hear some sort of butterfly open and close at 5 in-Hg. Is this normal?..or this can be fix by adjusting the butterfly?

 

This has been my contention all along. I don't believe for a second that these "mis-adjusted" valves are just slipping through the cracks. They're probably set that way for a reason, probably IMHO drivability (smooth on/off boost transition) but it would be interesting to get the real story.

 

Guys,!!

Where's my Alta CAi? Where is that nice sound of the CAI?
I did the VGS today together with the boost gauge. I took it for a drive later at night and I realized that the ALTA CAI sound is gone! Usually I would hear the 'Psssssshhhh' sound when I give a slight tap on the throttle and when I let off the throttle after flooring it.Now the sound is not there anymore. Anybody with Alta CAi experiecing the same thing with the VGS mod?

Another thing that I realized is that, the acceleration of the car on every gear is slower. Usually my car will rev/pull fast easily to the red line..it' slower now. Is this normal? What seems to be the problem? Or was it just me?? Help me guys... Thanks!

 

My Alta had the same whistle as always after the VGS. I definitely didn't experience a decrease in performance.

An intake path leak is the first thing that comes to mind.

 

I'd retrace your steps and make sure that all hoses are hooked back up correctly. Also, try swapping the screw from the short hose to the long hose, and plug the short hose back into the bypass valve. This returns the configuration to stock.

 

The same could be accomplished by adjusting the blade stop to keep blade slightly open. That would make more sense than offsetting the blade in the throat.
I actually left mine slightly off seat so it would have no chance of binding with any kind of thermal expansion or just metal to metal friction. About .005 -.010 from absolute stop.

 

i'm thinking about getting an oil catch can, so i'm wondering if theres any conflict with the VGS setup? never had one before so i was curious...

 

I have both. Have had for a couple weeks ( the catch can is newer).
No issues.