Even a properly-adjusted BPV like mine had trouble with the weird feedback back loop that is "yo-yo"

 

What I don't understand is why Mini couldn't have done this to fix the yo-yo problem that everyone has. In my opinion this should be a recall, and they should correct the layout according to what Andy has done. Of course Andy should get a $1 for every Mini out there

But seriously has anyone considered a class action lawsuit against Mini. Just the start of a lawsuit, might scare them into providing the recall. Especially when we can show them the fix and the fact that lines were incorrectly routed.

 

Yay! If MINI gave me $1 for every car they fixed using this method, I'd buy a beer for everyone on this forum (root beer for the young'uns). :smile:

 

The other day, I did get a CEL. I was coming back from DC to Raleigh and I had been driving at high speed for maybe 2 hours when it came on. It went out after 3 cycles and has not come on since so it may be nothing. I have not been able to tighten all my hose clamps yet so that might have had something to do with it.


DO the codes stay in memory after the light goes off? If so, I might buy a reader or try to find a place that will dump it for me.

 

Whether a code goes away on its own depends on the nature of the code (serious or not serious) as well as the driving conditions. It would be worth finding out what the fault is.

BTW, hose clamps that aren't tighened can definitely cause problems.

 

I know on the hose clamps. I just need to buy the darn pliers to do it. I was able to get one or 2 back on but not all of them using a pair of end cutters. Those things are a real pain in the hind end. I should probably just go buy all standard hose clamps like you have Andy, it would cost about the same.

 

Yes, Otiker clamps are a cruel prank by the car manufacturers:



Just replace em with stainless hose clamps with the normal worm gear screw thingy.

 

Anyone have a list of the proper sizes?

 

I personally don't mind them. They are not difficult to operate with ordinary tools and they always return to the OEM spec in terms of "snugness" <-- Thats a technical term

 

Although in most cases, the Oetikers can be re-used (like the ones on the rubber hose to airbox connection), in many cases they are nearly impossible to get pliers around (like the rubber hose to throttle body connection). I've replaced all the hard to re-attach ones with regular hose clamps and everything's been fine and dandy like sour candy. :smile:

 

I made a tool out of a cheap pair of slip joint pliers by grinding the nose to look like Oetiker pincers. The hard to reach ones get replaced with SS worm drive clamps.
If you want a picture google [ Oetiker pincers ]
Attribute of Oetiker clamps is that they "breathe" and adapt to the expansion and contraction of hose's affected by heat and aging _ retightening not needed.

 

andy, truley awsome how you have found out how to do this, i to have the VGS and its transformed my cooper S amazingly, but i need to check my BRV now but theres no where i can find on how i can get to it easily, can you give me any tips on what i need to do to get to it ?

MANY THANKS

 

Andy, what software revision has this been tested with? I'm running with a restriction orifice now with virtually no yo-yo but I'm due to go in for my first 10k service tomorrow (new April 2004). I was going to tell them to not upgrade the software. Any recommendations re software upgrade and this modification?

(Apologies if I missed this in the thread somewhere...)

 

I'm running v.36 but I don't see why this wouldn't work with any revision of the software. Give the VGS a try, I think you'll like the quick response of the BPV.

 

No issue with the SW EXCEPT I don't like the throttle response. I don't know if it's me, or if under v39 they changed the "drive by wire" stuff. No issue with Yo-Yo or whatever. But then, my car didn't have it when it was new (lucky me). MTH got rid of some of the throttle response issues.

Watch out for loose clamps. Leaking boost just wastes HP. And that can make you sad......

Matt

 

How would the car respond with both the Ryephile Bypass Valve (fully closed butterfly and stiffer spring) and the VGS mod? Would that be overkill?

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6&postcount=39

 

I'm gonna try this in the morning. I'm currently running 'Phix #2, but will go back to the stock spring. I've been getting an SES if I cruise for extended periods @ 75 mph in 6th - system too lean, bank 1. Happened once before installing R.P. #2 (just after getting gas & in town), then started occuring regularly (on the highway) several months after. Goes out a few cycles later. If I cruise in 5th at the same speed, I get no light. It also seems I get slightly better mileage in 5th. Screwy, huh? May be due to v.38. If nothing else, perhaps my economy will improve with this mod. Will report back. Oh, and nice acronym, Andy!

 

Right after I bought real cheap gas. Never been back since.

Matt

 

edited

 

Describe your cold start problem. Have you swapped back to stock?

 

Welp, install & reversion went off without a hitch. Just got back from a 30 minute flog. The initial results are pretty much what I expected. The car is noticeably smoother under acceleration. Overall power feels about the same, but no longer comes on like a hammer since I replaced the stock BPV spring. There's also less blower noise since returning to stock. I don't have time for a highway trip to test for the SES, but will perhaps next weekend. Will report on that when I can.
If you're at the track much, I think the heavy bypass spring ala Ryephix 2 is the way to go. I don't get there very often, and am presently enjoying the smoothness of Andy's labourious fruits, or, uh, VGS. . .
Thanks again, Andy!

UPDATE 05/02/05

Took a ride up to Nashville yesterday & tried to trip the SES (cruised in 6th, just over 3k rpm - see previous post) and all is well! No light. Could have been my modified BPV causing it. I don't know. Car sure seems happy with the stock spring & VGS, though. Although I still get a little yo-yo (did with modded BPV, too), it's pretty rare & not bad at all.
Andy is a good chap!

MPG UPDATE 05/02/05

Been through one tank since install & going back to stock spring. Got about 23 combined. Was getting ~ 20.5 before w/ heavy spring.

 

I just did VGS and installed a boost gauge. The car rand great! Really love the quick respond...feel good everytime I step on gas. Good job Andy!

I'm just curious about what people would see on the gauge.

Andy, do you have a graph for Boost and Vac Vs. RPM?

 

I have a new 2005 MCS w/automatic. I didn't have the yo-yo (which I experienced in a couple of used MCSes w/manuals that I was considering), but I have noticed a flat spot / lower torque situation in the 2000-2500 RPM range. I decided to try the VGS mod to see if it helps this at all.

The install took me about an hour and about 25 curse words.

The car is more responsive at lower RPM now, the flat spot is pretty much gone and the power curve seems smoother when accelerating than before. The smoothness is harder to quantify because of the automatic. Overall the responsiveness seems to be improved and there are no negatives at all to report.

One very unexpected benefit seems to have occured: As some of you may know, there is a flaw in the current software regarding the MCS automatics. According to MINI, the flaw manifests itself when the engine is cold and one drives a short distance to a downhill slope, then decelerates for an extended period - if one does this in two consecutive drive cycles the SES lamp comes on. Also according to MINI service personnel, the SES lamp will stay on until the error is cleared by the dealer. New software is under development to fix the problem, no commit date for release.

This error hit my car twice in the first 600 miles of driving it. The first time I got the dealer to check the car, confirm the situation and clear the fault; as they made it clear they didn't want to do this every time the fault occurs I have been living with the SES light on for the past week since the error reoccured. A bit irrirating to buy a new car and have it continuously display the message "Service Engine Soon", but that's for a different thread.

In any case the SES lamp has now gone out - sometime in the first 10 minutes of driving my MINI with the VGS modification. As this is only one data point I can't confirm the VGS mod to be the reason the SES went away, but it is the only thing that has changed on the car since the light went on 400 miles ago.

Obviously I'm interested to know if any other MCS automatic owners have seen the same thing.

Separately, many thanks to Andy for developing and posting this fix and to everyone else who tried it and asked questions so I didn't have to!

/gary

MONDAY 4/25/05 UPDATE: Despite what my dealer's service advisor told me, other folks experiences show that the SES light can reset and turn off even after this error code is thrown. Most likely scenario is that the error code did reset. However, it has not come on again even though I've repeated the actions that caused it to in the past.

Am very happy with the VGS mod!

/gary

 

I'm glad the VGS has worked out so well for so many of you. I'd like to reiterate that it is a good idea to install it in such a way that it's quick and easy to swap back to the stock configuration in case you have issues. Using a capped length of hose at least 6 inches on the lower bypass valve nipple is the way to go, that way you can leave it plugged into the lower nipple, uncap it, and plug it into the vacuum diaphragm (making sure to cap the long hose from the manifold) to return to stock.

BTW, I thought of an analogy for the stock configuration. It's as if you had a thermostat right next to your furnace, causing a feedback loop that doesn't allow correct control. My moving the thermostat further away from the furnace, it isn't as affected by the conditions near the furnace, hence no feedback loop.