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Drivetrain :: Operation Vacuum Gain System (VGS)

  #51  
Old 03-09-2005, 07:26 AM
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Gas mileage has been the same as before, roughly 25 mpg in a mix of city and highway. My mileage varies greatly due to my short commute anyway, so I can't assign an exact percentage. As far as performance, this works great! yo-yo is 100% gone, hopefully never to return. Throttle response is excellent, and no fault codes!
 
  #52  
Old 03-09-2005, 07:32 AM
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I'm not sure if the spot where CoryB tapped is manifold vacuum. It looks like that line connects the fuel tank evap valve to a nipple on the throttle body. If so, that might not be such a great idea.
 
  #53  
Old 03-09-2005, 08:03 AM
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I installed the VGS last night, easy and straight forward, once you find the vacuum lines. (they're small) Andy your right, wait for the engine to cool. Smaller hands would help also. I naver had the yo-yo real bad, I was looking for better throtle response. With a quick test drive last night, and the commute to work this morning, it seemes better. Feels like the SC is coming into play closer to 3K RPM than before. No yo-yo, and the bog, stumble (whatever you want to call it) is better. I do about 140 miles a day, so give me a few days and I'll be able to tell if there is any decrease in mpg. So far so good . Thanks Andy

Nik
 
  #54  
Old 03-09-2005, 06:09 PM
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In looking over everything and tracking vacuum lines tonight, I believe you're right. While I was checking, I found the vacuum nipple you were talking about and rerouted the hose to that. No real change in driveability, but at least I know I'm getting manifold vacuum now.

Thanks for the heads-up.

Originally Posted by [email protected]
I'm not sure if the spot where CoryB tapped is manifold vacuum. It looks like that line connects the fuel tank evap valve to a nipple on the throttle body. If so, that might not be such a great idea.
 
  #55  
Old 03-10-2005, 05:19 PM
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Little over 300 miles and the OBC says I've gained about two miles per gallon . I get real #'s tomorrow when I fill up. The more I drive with it the more I like it. Alot smoother from complete stops .


More tomorrow.

Nik
 
  #56  
Old 03-13-2005, 10:53 AM
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Was the check valve ever incorporated into this project?????????? Did you determine if it was or was not necessary or beneficial (the check valve in the long line) Thanks:smile:



Originally Posted by [email protected]
FWIW, here is how mine is currently routed, incorporating the boost gauge. I had already installed the boost gauge and run its vacuum line long before I tried the VGS, so I could clean up the routing if I did it over again. Anyway, here's how mine is currently laid out:

 
  #57  
Old 03-13-2005, 01:16 PM
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Late to the party.....

I can't belive I missed this thread. I wanted to go try it this afternoon, but my wife has the car.....

Oh well.....

Matt
 
  #58  
Old 03-13-2005, 02:17 PM
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No check valve yet. I'm not sure it's worthwhile to install one since the diaphragm seems fine with boost so far.
 
  #59  
Old 03-13-2005, 02:46 PM
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Works fine. Thanks again for passing along improvements & the R&D that shows its just that.
 
  #60  
Old 03-14-2005, 10:06 AM
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Well, after a few days I noticed that the slight yo-yo () had returned with this setup.

So I'm back to my stock vacuum hookup with a 0.0292 restrictor in the hose. For me, this is the best setup I've tried and has 99% eliminated the yo-yo.

But thanks for the research Andy!
 
  #61  
Old 03-14-2005, 10:33 AM
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Mine has stayed away, but I'm glad you have a setup that works for you.
 
  #62  
Old 03-14-2005, 01:28 PM
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Did you remove the intercooler in your pics????

I have the stuff to try this just not sure which Vac lines are which. Would messing with Vaccuum lines effect SCCA Classing?

Originally Posted by [email protected]
Mine has stayed away, but I'm glad you have a setup that works for you.
 
  #63  
Old 03-14-2005, 04:41 PM
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Ok I must be an idiot I have the car dismanteled I still have not convinced myself I have the correct lines Help!!!!!
 
  #64  
Old 03-14-2005, 07:30 PM
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AFAIK, there's only one vacuum nipple on the intake manifold, right next to the #1 runner (passenger side of the engine), as shown in the pic. What part are you having a problem with?
 
  #65  
Old 03-15-2005, 04:20 AM
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I can't get the line loose from the manifold also cant find the line on the bypass??? seams like a very stiif line




Originally Posted by [email protected]
AFAIK, there's only one vacuum nipple on the intake manifold, right next to the #1 runner (passenger side of the engine), as shown in the pic. What part are you having a problem with?
 
  #66  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:17 AM
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You Guy's must have hands the size of a small infant I have finally gotten the line removed from the intake manifold I pulled the line out of the rubber grommet fitting (hope that makes since) I inserted the T directly into the OEM rubber grommet fitting placed a 1" section of 5/32 Vac line on 2nd barb of T and inserted the oem vac line into this 1" rubber line. The 3rd barb has a line running across the top of the intake manifold I plan to zip tie it to am existing vac line below the intercooler. Should I be concerned about the factory line leaking at the T 5/32 rubber connection?
 
  #67  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:30 AM
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Put a zip tie around any connections that do not feel snug.
 
  #68  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:41 AM
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rataha,


Don't feel bad about the questions. I suspect many more have similar questions and are reticient about asking.

I just put a supercharger on my Tacoma, with different injectors, modified the fuel system, changed the wiring in the ECU and redid the electrical system. Reasonably complicated. And I am still interested in hearing and learning as your story unfolds.

I appreciate all the efforts of Andy and his graphics.



Is that a plug on the lower most illustration with the green connector hose (bottom right)? It does not appear in the Stock routing illustration.


EDIT Rereading one of norm03's earlier posts suggests that it is.

Vince
 
  #69  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rataha
You Guy's must have hands the size of a small infant I have finally gotten the line removed from the intake manifold I pulled the line out of the rubber grommet fitting (hope that makes since) I inserted the T directly into the OEM rubber grommet fitting placed a 1" section of 5/32 Vac line on 2nd barb of T and inserted the oem vac line into this 1" rubber line. The 3rd barb has a line running across the top of the intake manifold I plan to zip tie it to am existing vac line below the intercooler. Should I be concerned about the factory line leaking at the T 5/32 rubber connection?
I installed the same as you. Seems to work just fine. Mine wasn't loose at all. No my hands aren't the size of infants (though it would have helped) just had to do everyting with two fingers.

Well I now have another 300 or so miles with the VGS and the milage seems to be almost exactly the same as before:
Original: calculated 29.8 OBC: 32.1
1st tank: calculated 29.0 OBC: 34.0
2nd tank: calculated 30.02 OBC 33.1

I only reset the OBC after I installed the VGS, with time I imagine it will come down to the original 32.1 mpg. The VGS does not seem to affect the gas milage at all. The overall throttle responce is definatly better, the 1st gear bog is almost completely gone, even on hot days when it used to be the worst. It is responding better now than it did in any of the previous 64K miles.

Nik
 
  #70  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ChiliBit
Is that a plug on the lower most illustration with the green connector hose (bottom right)? It does not appear in the Stock routing illustration.

Vince
Yep, I just used a screw to block the line. It would be neater to replace that line with a vacuum cap, but I wanted easy access to be able to swap back and forth to stock.
 
  #71  
Old 03-15-2005, 08:05 AM
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Finally, my girlie little hands avail themselves!

Bought the vac hose last night, will install either today or tomorrow. Is there a commercially available cap available to use in place of the screw that Andy has used?

TIA (thanks in advance, not transient ischemic attack)

Marty
 
  #72  
Old 03-15-2005, 08:17 AM
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The local auto parts store should have an assortment of rubber vacuum caps (Smurf condoms ) available, which slip over the hose barb on the bypass valve.
 
  #73  
Old 03-15-2005, 06:01 PM
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Plan on removing the intercooler. And stop at sears 11" 45 degree long reach needle nose plyers I painted the intercooler cover Body color and touch up painted the S red. Looks pretty darn good:smile: The older I get the more I find that tool's are cheaper than time.
RAT
 
  #74  
Old 03-16-2005, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rataha
Plan on removing the intercooler. And stop at sears 11" 45 degree long reach needle nose plyers I painted the intercooler cover Body color and touch up painted the S red. Looks pretty darn good:smile: The older I get the more I find that tool's are cheaper than time.
RAT
That would make it way too easy! Also helping to secure length of vacuum line across fuel rail/injectors. Its a good mod--Thanks again Andy.
 
  #75  
Old 03-16-2005, 12:18 PM
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i did this mod as well, with no apparant yo yo before. i find that when i floor it in 2nd gear the boost comes on faster, which is rather nice. now i have a question to ask... when i put the tube on, i couldnt get the 5/32 tube to stay on the nossle, so i put Y into the hole of the original rubber holder, however, i used a smaller sized Y than 5/32, will this be an issue with pressure etc? the rest of the lines and fitters are 5/32. This comes to my second question, when im on the highway and i'm in 6th gear and i floor it to over take a car, it feels like the boost isnt as strong as before i switched the tubes. could this be all in my head, or is there less psi at lower rpm's which might not be shutting the butterfly becuase of a leak or because of my smaller Y? any help would be appreciated. Cheers
 

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