Ummm. I've read most of this thread, but am still very confused, mainly because it's all numbers,etc.

Anyway, I was thinking about doing this mod. I daily drive my car and don't track it at all. Basically, should I do it or not? The high temps kind of worry me, but are they really problematic?

Thanks,
-Cody

 

Not a problem here. My car is a daily driver.
see post 375

 

I want to do this mod, heat is not a problem since i am running water injection. My question is i already have 3 things tapped into to the line that goes from the FPR to the Manifold " Water injection, Boost guage and NOS" the VGS would be the forth. Do you guys think that will be a problem having all these devices reading boost and vac of on that one line?
Is there any alternative routing? Can i just cap of the BPV.

 

Sounds like my twin No problem here...I can read boost pre, post and from OBD...I take my readings from the taps on the DFIC...

 

OK, finally got to do some 80mph cruise readings.

Ambient temps were from 92-95º. Heat index was right around 101º.

The section of Interstate I was on has some mild variance. Overpass, underpass, etc. No A/C or cruise, windows down, stereo playing loudly, slaloming slower cars.
Since I was by myself I have no recorded readings just mental data logging Fairly reliable. Eyes on the road and all that.
This was after I had stopped at the dealership to pick up some parts. ( JS ). When I got in the car before I started it inley was 174º and oulet was 165º. Pretty heat soaked eh?

On the flat stretches my inlet temps ranged ~ 147º and outlet 110º.

Peak observed incline temp was 178º/122º.


VGS installed, BPV adjusted to close 99%+. (left a .002-3 gap just in case there was expansion and I didn't want the butterfly to bind on the BPV throat), GRS IC with modded upper diverter and lower vane diverter.

Maximum temp I say for the trip was pulling up out of the HR Bridge-Tunnel. Any local can tell you is sucks. Backed up for miles, ride the brakes down hill because of all the pinheads and then speed up as you leave the tunnel:impatient Damned ridiculous.
Anyhoo. 4th gear low RPM pull up the hill and I hit 55mph and 192/145º on a nice heat soaked IC. Temps dropped quickly back to normal.


Synopsis:

More people need to do this. So far we have one heat issue and one I'd say is normalish

I'm keeping the VGS

 

I did this mod, it was not hard at all, i actually had to take the intercooler off twice because the vac line to the BVP was not snug and the screw o block of the other line was not snug either so i had a major leak, just capped the canister. I did this along with the removal of the airbox panel since my filter sits right there for now. My boost comes in sluggish, i am now feeling the YO YO, i never did before. And no matter what i do, i cannot get more than 13 lbs out of my 15% pulley. What is the effect of capping the BVP?

 

It will keep your gas milage up, and make light throttle driving better.

If you don't make the boost you used to, you probably still have (or have another) post SC leak. Or it's leaking past the BPV.... If you really want to run without the BPV, wiretie it closed so it can't leak....

Matt

 

Thanks Doc...i will cap it later today and see the outcome. Once you start modding a car you should not be concerned about gas mileage that is just my logic. I bought the car with the pulley on it so i am really guessing what ratio it is, i installed the boost guage and i am only getting 13-14 psi so my guestamate is a 15%. This whole boost thing stumps me, at what RPM should i get the 15 psi i am looking for? I know in the Lower RPM's i am seeing 10-11 psi below 5k so i am not sure if that is the main job of the pulley is to give more boost down low. I wish i could compare how much boos the stock pulley gives in that below 5k RPM range.

 

with a 15% pulley and a bunch of other stuff, but stock head.

As you can see, you don't hit peak boost untill red-line. But I only get 14 lbs...

Matt

 

Mine is %2 crank + %15 pulley (with head/header, etc) and maximum boost of 15.7psi is only reached at redline...rest of the time during short shifting around 5k, max boost is around 13psi...

 

Oh so i am right on the money then. I will still cap of the BPV just to see if the boost comes in quicker down low, do you know the how much boost the stock pulley gives in the below 5k range.

I should get my MTH tuner file within a day or two, lets see if it enhances the water injection.

 

I posted this over on the VGS thoughts, but thought I'd post it here too. I know another member of MMMC that loves it. I guess it just depends on the car as well as the driver.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TampaMCS
I didnt like it, I went back to stock. Should be interesting to see what the DT BPV feels like.

I agree, I did not like it either. I have an 05 MCS with Alta CAI, 15% pulley, Craven 2% over lightweight crank pulley, magnaflow exhaust.

I never had any yo-yo to eliminate, I will say it improved my gas mileage about 1 mpg, but saw no significant gains in power, low end or high. It actually seemed to have a little more hesitation at the lower RPM's.

I took the mod one step further, I lengthend all of the hoses and brought them up beside the Alta CAI box so I could swap lines without removing the IC each time. Just swap out the line to the bpv with either the VGS line or the original line and use a vacuum cap on the other. I have put about 2K miles on with the VGS and just swapped back to original yesterday. I drove to work this AM and was much happier with the performance, smoother and no hesitation in the lower RPM.

Just my 2 cents.
__________________
05 CR/B all 3 pkgs, HK, Aero grills, Rally Lts, PIAA 520 Fogs, Alta CAI, Alta short shifter, H-Sport, 15% pully, Schroth harnesses, Magnaflow exhaust.

 

I am going to do this (longer hoses) when the DT BPV finally comes in...

 

OMG the DT BPV is great! On my car it was all the positives that the VGS was and none of the negatives of the VGS!

Its install is fairly easy, but aint for the faint of heart. If you are comfortable working on your engine, then you'll be fine.

Taking off in first needs much less gas, bury the big pedal and hang on. Each upshift hits like a heart attack.

Keep in mind I am FAR from stock, I have the Shrick Cam, CAI, 17%, JCW injectors, MTH, Header, high flow cat, Milltek exhaust and a l/w crank pulley.

I noticed that my stock BPV was not closing all the way, and the spring is light as hell compared to the DT BPV!

 

Sucks to know how long you were driving like that. I was the first on in NAM to point the BPV problem out. Talked one of the original starters of DP to do this for a business. I have the first one sold. Yes, you can thank me. This should be the first mod that is done, period. Not the DP BPV exactly, but making sure that your BPV closes properly. Make sure that if you go to the dealer you look that the BPV closes properly before you leave the dealership. There is a new part number now, Khuevo pointed this out. I have seen BPV at the dealer that have the new part number marked on the box with a marker. Do not get those.

I have VGS at the same time as Ryphix#2 (DP BPV) and I think that it is even better !!!. Give it a try. If you do not like it, VGS is easy to undo.

Bomboasy

 

I have mine going on Sunday, along with an M7 16% pulley.

Can't wait!
-Cody

 

And, Bomboasy was so kind to help talk me through the broken SC intake tube thing! Let's see, that was way back in Novemebr of 2004, I believe!

Back in 2004, I created my own version of the DT BPV by getting a stiffer spring from Ryephile, removing my BPV, aligning the butterfly, and replacing the spring. When I moved to the JCW 210 kit, I also did the VGS mod and got the MTH maps (when they were $70).

I can tell you that this combination is a strong performer! Yes, the throttle-off to throttle-on transition immediately closes the BPV so there is an abrupt increase (and decrease) in power, but you can learn to anticipate/modulate the response with your right foot. It's not for everyone but I love it!

Theo

 

Ryan was involved in the launch of DT, but he and Chad had a falling out....

Matt

ps, then the spring was just $20.....

 

Yup, you're right, Matt! Ryan Malcolm and I were working behind the scenes with a MINI corporate contact on the "yo-yo" issue. He decided that the stiffer spring would be able to mask the yo-yo problem. I think I and Bomboasy purchased from one of the first batches of springs he made (yup, $20...have the cancelled check!).

Ryan had three "Ryephixes" available for dealing with the yo-yo. Ryephix #1: zip-tie the BPV closed. Ryephix #2: stiffer BPV spring. Ryephix #3: new BPV adjusted properly and with stiffer spring.

At the time, DT hadn't formed but, I believe, Ryan had the idea to sell BPVs with the new spring and the adjusted butterfly.

MINI Mod Trivia!

Theo

 

I did not purchased a spring from Ryan. I purchased the entire BPV with the modified spring and the properly closing butterfly from Ryan, the first (?). I was a lazy bum and did not want to change with the spring by myself. Others were making the mod on their own. He told me that he could buy the part and make the mod and ship it to me. He changed the spring to a new BPV and shipped it to me. He asked me how much he should charge me for the part. "I said how does $80 sound?". He said, OK. When I got his part, I looked into the light and it closed properly. But, he one from my car did not. I made Ryan aware of the closing problem and he checked some samples that he had. Some close properly and the other did not. He adjusted the others and I told him that he should sell his spring on modified BPV as a product. WHAM: The DT BPV was born. I posted the first pictures of the problem with the BPV and Ryan started getting a lot of request for the entire set up, not only the springs. Next thing I know he is charging almost $100 for them and started DT with a parner. Ryan is a good guy and those were fun times.

Bomboasy

PS. The funniest thing is that we are posting this in the VGS thread !!! Ryan and Andy did not see eye to eye always. But both had a lot of conviction and would give you data to prove their points.

 

OK just did this mod, and freaking drew blood from my right hand.

Andy, you must have the smallest hands in the world to get in at the angles in those pictures. My hands are small and chubby, and man I had a hard time indeed...

 

Your Mini and you are now blood brothers.

Bomboasy

 

Well, I installed the stewart warner gauge kit yesterday, and noticed that my dreaded "CAI Whistle" definitely was a function of the BPV. When I gave enough throttle for the whistle to start the boost gauge needle was all over the place, and didn't settle down until I went past the whistle and started to build boost.

So this morning I went to get a tee, vacuum line and caps. I ended up putting the tee into the coupler line from my boost gauge install (I ended up using a longer coupler line than came with the kit).

I did this in conjunction with cleaning out my intercooler. That thing was filthly. I definitely need an OCC considering I only have 23K miles on the clock.

Long story short, I put everything back together, and when out for a test spin. The whistle is GONE. It was replaced by the sound of rushing air. The boost gauge now travels smoothly from ~22in Hg (vacuum when cruising) down to 0 then smoothly transitions to boost. I could detect no jerkiness at mid throttle, and it was much easier to transition from cruising to accelerating.

I know some cars have issues with the VGS, and I had considered getting the DT BPV, but just performing the VGS seems to have settled the engine out, and made it function the way it should have from the factory. The only reason I didn't do this sooner was that I didn't know the difference it was really going to make.

 

very well written thx .

 

After some further motoring tonight I found that the intake whistle is still there, but it comes and goes quicker. It seems that the BPV is spending much less time partially closed. The boost is much smoother, and comes much quicker.