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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
DDM Intake. Wanted to go ahead and order an exhaust while at WMW, ATL.... Hubby found a part that makes the CEL go away even in the absence of catalytic converter..... hmmmmm, just wonder if anyone can tell me if MilliTek or Borla have any real advantages over Megan? I know they are more expensive, and have seen several videos on YouTube w/ different exhaust sounds. Not really finding a diff. there, J/W if any of you would help out one of the newbies lol
DDM Intake. Wanted to go ahead and order an exhaust while at WMW, ATL.... Hubby found a part that makes the CEL go away even in the absence of catalytic converter..... hmmmmm, just wonder if anyone can tell me if MilliTek or Borla have any real advantages over Megan? I know they are more expensive, and have seen several videos on YouTube w/ different exhaust sounds. Not really finding a diff. there, J/W if any of you would help out one of the newbies lol
What generation cooper do you have? I have an '03 R53, and I am very happy with my Megan Racing exhaust. For $515, it's almost half the price of the others.
I've noticed a slight uptick in MPG and I love the sound.
They do crack if the rotor is not appropriately sized for the application. This is the 10th set of cross drilled rotors I have had on my vehicles and the only set I have had crack are the ones on my 2000 Dakota R/T...braking system sucked on that truck. I will keep a close eye on these, but I have alot of faith in the braking system on the Mini, we have the same size rotors in the front as the Pontiac GTO that weight 1/2 a ton more than our cars.
Originally Posted by inkspot1967
i like those as well but keep reading about how drilled rotors are not a good idea since they crack. let us know know they work out.
I put 100,000 miles on a set of drilled rotors on my Volvo, no problems. They finally wore out. I replaced them with a set of non-drilled Zimmermans, because I got a good price on them.
I just installed my new VIP customs stb very nice quaility and fits perfect.
only thing im not sure about is on my passenger side the plate doesnt sit flush towards the front. im guessing this means its mushroomed a little bit.....
Last edited by inkspot1967; May 1, 2012 at 12:29 PM.
I just installed my new VIP customs stb very nice quaility and fits perfect.
only thing im not sure about is on my passenger side the plate doesnt sit flush towards the front. im guessing this means its mushroomed a little bit.....
Mine did the same thing when I installed it. I had to re-torque the passenger side strut mount several times before it held the torque setting. I could feel the plate pulling the strut tower back into flatness as I repeatedly re-torqued it.
I put one in a month or so ago and love it. I've got an auto and can tell the difference but if you've got a manual you'll be able to tell even more I would suspect.
Yep shifting is so much smoother, best 50bucks I have spent on the car yet
thx for the info seems like i could do that on mine but im scared of pulling the studs out i heard they are onlu pressed in and well afraid to mess it up. dam i hate this....lol
Originally Posted by joe_bfstplk
Mine did the same thing when I installed it. I had to re-torque the passenger side strut mount several times before it held the torque setting. I could feel the plate pulling the strut tower back into flatness as I repeatedly re-torqued it.
thx for the info seems like i could do that on mine but im scared of pulling the studs out i heard they are onlu pressed in and well afraid to mess it up. dam i hate this....lol
If you put a torque wrench on it and torque to spec, then go back and it can be tightened without going above torque spec, then the metal is mushroomed and you're not going to pull the stud out by re-torquing it to the spec. If the thing's not tight, the strut may rattle and your handling will be weird, in a perhaps dangerous way. Certainly a re-check with the torque wrench is in order, since if it's up to torque, you don't have to tighten it any more....
Mine pulled up to about 18 ft./lbs. and then, as the metal re-formed itself flat against the bottom of the plate, I turned each nut at least two full turns past that point (going round-and-round a quarter turn at time on each nut) before they rose beyond that and finally held the 22 ft./lbs. or whatever the spec was. You could see the gap around it shrink with each crank on the wrench....
wow those like real nice i may have to look into those for my 2008 MC, i want some black headlights. is there anything special needed to be done to wire in the HID's....?