I installed gauges, boost/h2o temp with the Craven Speed dual mount. It is a waste to have the vac/boost gauge since it only reads boost. The gauge needle is noisie as it vibrates at just off idle. A straight boost gauge would be far better. The temp gauge light shuts down if you tone down the instrument lighting, noe sure if that is normal or just this gauge. The boost gauge adjust w/o issues. Also hung the GoMini pulsar to the third brake- next week in the sub from Intregral Audio.

 

Vac/boost provides, in one gauge, a lot of info. Not only the boost, which tells you how much extra power you're making, but the vacuum, which tells you (roughly) how good you're doing at saving gas. I have a vac/boost gauge, and it really helps squeeze mileage out of every drop of gas in town. I figure the oil companies have enough of my money as it is, so why toss more there way unnecessarily? Also, the vacuum gauge provides a rough indication of grade (uphill, downhill, flat) when you set your cruise control. If you haven't got a loud enough exhaust to *hear* the change, the gauge will tell you....

BTW, if the needle buzzes, try sticking a small wad of cotton in the line at the engine end where you pick up the boost signal--not enough to clog the line, just enough to slow down the in/out of air between the line and the manifold. The reservoir of air in the line between the gauge and the cotton will soften the vibrations quite effectively if the restriction is placed at the engine end of the line....

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch

 

Thanks for the suggestion on the cotton Dutch. Also with the Valvetronic engine, I have about 10 in of vac when cold, after it warms up the engine does not create vacuum, there is a vacuum pump to run the accessories.

 

Ah, k, gotcha. So they're throttling right at the valves like the Fiat 500's and BMW's setups. Interesting. I hope the mechanicals involved hold up well over time, as it's a *lot* more complicated than the tried-and-true throttle plate at the manifold inlet....

C ya,
Dutch

 

Here you go ...i toke my pix of the new type headl lamps
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

 

Why does the light look like its falling?

 

Yeah, you're right....it does look like that. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thank you!

 

compiled a list of euro trim pieces to order. good bye reflectors

 

Sorry to hear about your Grandmother and your MINI Pew!!

 

Break service light came in, so I got my rotors turned, as needed, and installed some EBC Green Stuff's (Thanks Way, for the speedy delivery!). Plus, thanks to this thread I was able to reset the service warning light.

 

Wow, from what I understood (via the stealership and posts on NAM) you are unable to turn the rotors... Is this something that is unique to JCW's or can I actually turn my rotors?

When I called the dealer they gave me the minimum width I can run my rotors, which mine where within 1-3mm withing the minimum. So they advised me to order new ones.

It would be a huge money saver if I were able to turn them... I already bought new ones (the drilled and slotted ) and am waiting to install them. It'd be nice to know if I can turn those when the time comes.

Thanks!

 

You can turn any standard rotor as long as it doesn't go beyond the minimum specification, which is printed on the rotor. I'm on my third set of pads now on the stock rotors and, after having them turned, will finally have to replace them after this set of pads wears out. The rear rotors were fine, but were also near the minimum spec., so I will replace those as well. I can imagine turning slotted rotors would kind of defeat the purpose of the slots...

 

Called to check on Charlottle while she is in the shop after a good rear ending.

My girls has seen allot 8 miles on her 21 March 2011 21,500 miles on her as of last friday

 

Last night I installed the MINI Sport Antenna. Tonight I hope to accomplish the JCW CF interior door handles.

 

I think PVC isn't rated for pressure - might wanna wrap that sucker in duct tape and/or enclose it in a small wooden box. Don't want it to become a shrapnel grenade when the PVC ages enough to get brittle and pop...

 

Installed a German Hooligan sticker above my front VIN number so I could "stealth" mount my camera / cell phone's suction cup to it.

Sticker I got is here: http://oemplus.com/index.php?main_pa...roducts_id=345

 

Changed the gearbox oil

 

Washed yesterday then clay barred and put sealant on afterwards today. Had windshield washer fluid stains on bonnet, and the clay bar got rid of most of it. Its hardly even noticeable.

 

When I called the dealership about the minimum width (I didn't know they were printed on there...) I was about 3mm from the minimum. So I opted to just replace them. I only had 38,000 miles on it and was disappointed that I'd have to buy new brakes and rotors. I don't mind changing out the pads, but those big JCW rotors are expensive!

Maybe I've just been spending too much time on the twisties!

 

Yesterday, I installed the Helix short shifter as well as the H-sport 19mm rear sway bar to my 06 R53. Love both! Haven't had a chance to really push the sway bar yet, but so far it definitely tightens things up. The short shift is awesome. I've always been jealous of my GFs 350Z shifter, and this makes mine very similar.

 

My buddy has a 350Z - like the short shifter, too. Just hate the clutch. The MINI is so easy to shift in comparison.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if some MINI places don't turn rotors as a rule. I'm pretty sure you can get rotors and pads for JCW much, much cheaper than from the stealership. I can't believe how much MINI charge for a brake job on a JCW.


I removed the rear headrest locks so I could drop down those headrests and actually see out the back window. Desperately need a car wash. Toronto is so dusty this week. Actually had a look at the taillights - had no idea they use LEDs to light up little plastic thingys - neat. Then I got some beer.

 

Spent some $...Replaced the one ball with a Miltek cat back, Alta Short Shifter, 4th brake light fog lamp conversion, coolant flush, P/S flush, super charger belt, cabin filter, oh and a 2010 Mustang GT 6 speed shift **** (looks and feels great). Thanks to Eric and the boys at Helix, great job guys. Now we just need to sort out the check engine light that just came on. Oh well the price you pay for pulling and pushing all that air. I thinks the computer is just confused.

 

Finally installed my AZNOptics LED City Lights and Hoën Endurance Yellow Fog Lights. What a royal pain even with the wheels off.

Found out my dealership over-torqued the front lugs and almost had to go out and buy a breaker bar. Must have been close to 150 lbs/ft. Applied some anti-seize to the hubs and used a torque wrench during re-install. Will have to re-torque the rear wheels too this weekend I guess.

Also ordered some AZNOptics festoon LEDs for the rear licence plate lights.

 

Today we installed the JCW CF Spoiler on my car. Love the look and install took 15min.