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Great thread! Did anyone confirm the newest version is still filled with fluid?
See my reply to @boki . I didn't tear my new one open but if it's not filled with fluid it's filled with air (pretty sure it's not filled with air). It's definitely the same kind of chamber-something as in the original, with the same kind of rubber making the same kind of seal. No change in toughness/texture/flexibility/etc., and it is *very* flexible to the touch.
See my reply to @boki . I didn't tear my new one open but if it's not filled with fluid it's filled with air (pretty sure it's not filled with air). It's definitely the same kind of chamber-something as in the original, with the same kind of rubber making the same kind of seal. No change in toughness/texture/flexibility/etc., and it is *very* flexible to the touch.
That’s not good, so the newest part really isn’t an upgrade/fix then it would appear.
Removing the head lights:
"use a paint pen to mark the edge-locations of the "alignment elements"
Please elaborate.
Thx
@TVPostSound Sorry for the delay, here you go. Where the red arrows are pointing to -- that's white paint from a paint pen, applied by me, on either side of the clamp point of what is called the "alignment element." There are three of those elements holding the headlamp in place. They slide onto a metal... tab, sheet, not sure what to call it, and they will probably sit in exactly the right spot but you never know what can surprise you during reassembly. So I marked their locations as diligently as I could before disassembly.
This photo is of the one on the RH (vehicle's POV) headlamp, if you are standing in front of the car. The element in view is the one at the upper right (from your POV) of the headlamp assembly.
There is a good amount of discussion about how difficult it can be to unscrew the originals without destroying them. When I did this work (and BTW I did replace these 3 "elements" and their screws) I was clear why pretty much immediately -- not only are the screws going into square nuts that sit loosely inside the element housing, the screws are coated with red Loctite.
Thx, so the headlights dont shift within the hood opening.
That would appear to be the intent. And to lock each headlight visually centered within its hood opening too, of course.
My recollection is that getting the headlights centered is not difficult, but not exactly intuitive either. If the alignment elements just sort of naturally sit nicely where they are supposed to -- you'll kind of know it it by feel and confirm by (slowly) bringing the lid down to do visual check -- then you just tighten them up evenly and you can even walk away thinking the paint marks were not needed. All cool. But if there is any doubt whatsoever, the only way to resolve at least some of that doubt is by marking the original positions.
That would appear to be the intent. And to lock each headlight visually centered within its hood opening too, of course.
My recollection is that getting the headlights centered is not difficult, but not exactly intuitive either. If the alignment elements just sort of naturally sit nicely where they are supposed to -- you'll kind of know it it by feel and confirm by (slowly) bringing the lid down to do visual check -- then you just tighten them up evenly and you can even walk away thinking the paint marks were not needed. All cool. But if there is any doubt whatsoever, the only way to resolve at least some of that doubt is by marking the original positions.
How do you mark the adjusters' screw distance? Especially if you replace with new??
How do you mark the adjusters' screw distance? Especially if you replace with new??
No need to. The adjustment is apparently side to side, meaning you can slide each alignment element left or right in its mounting location before clamping them down. The screws serve no purpose except to firmly clamp the headlamp assembly down to each alignment element (and to clamp the alignment element to its body mount point).
Intuitively, this leaves one wondering “well
how do you adjust the headlamps otherwise — like front to rear vs left-right along the slide paths of the alignment elements? I don’t know the BMW-intended method to do so offhand, but it isn’t by changes to the screw distance. If you don’t tighten those screws down completely, no exception, the headlamp will bounce around with every single jostle to the car — obviously not the idea and leading to not-good stuff.
Or at least that’s what I observed with my F56S. Pretty sure you’ll observe the same with yours.
Two different ones. Different amount of barrel threads.
Interesting - yeah mine definitely were not & are not showing different amounts of barrel thread - good catch! Not sure how one would note that other than how you did — meaning take photos
My '21 S has 19k miles on it, I took it to the dealer yesterday for some other things and they found the mount was leaking. Luckily it was replaced under warranty but wow this is crazy to hear how common these fail! At less than 20k I guess I should buy in bulk and learn how to replace these on my own for the future. Dang.
Interesting the top motor mount was redesigned (for the second time) in October 2020 time frame. Interesting it still fails. Anyone else have a 21/22/23 with a top motor mount issue?
Interesting the top motor mount was redesigned (for the second time) in October 2020 time frame. Interesting it still fails. Anyone else have a 21/22/23 with a top motor mount issue?
mine has a production date of: Prod. Date 2020-03-11
Being a dumb American I’m not sure if that’s March or November. If November, it was built on my bday.
Update on my mount testing. I’m currently running a new Transmission mount, filled with 3M Windo-Weld (55a-60a durometer) and a new engine also mount filled with 3M Windo-Weld, plus a custom CNC aluminum bumper/spacer to replace the original rubber bumper in the engine mount.
The vibration is a bit too much for me (especially pulling away from a stop in 1st or 2nd gear w/manual transmission).
This setup did solve a major complaint about my 17’ Clubman S ALL4 though. On certain freeway expansion joints I drive over routinely the car always had a weird floppy / cowl shake / reverberation that’s drove me nuts for years. I even went aftermarket springs/dampers (Bilstein B8) thinking it would solve it. It never did. Nor did adding the 2020 Clubman JCW underbody or strut tower braces 😬😬
So apparently the floppy, reverberation feeling was the engine/trans bouncing around. Agh! Anyway, that’s totally gone now. Cars feels better over bumps than it ever has.
Next attempt will be to remove the factory bumper in an engine mount and fill the entire thing with softer 30a durometer 2-part urethane. Hoping the softer urethane will decrease vibration, but keep the engine/trans from bouncing around. Gonna leave the filled trans mount for now.
Here’s a new trans mount filled with 3M Windo-Weld. Doesn’t feel too horrible stiff by hand. You can still move/flex the inner portion by hand.
But was my engine/trans flop just due to the trans mount - I’m not sure… The original wasn’t really in bad shape. It’s a very basic rubber mount with no tears. I bought the car when it was 3 years old with 30,000 miles and it “engine-flopped” even then. 🤷🏼♂️
Not a great photo of my current engine mount.
Do you have any experience of getting the transmission mount out? Bought the PowerFlex insert for the gearbox mount aswell as it was only 20 EUR but unsure how to approach it and if wanna do the hassle.
