And, it appears, designed to break away over time alone....

Per ECS the price of the OEM mount is about $150, vs the $450 for that part. Might be worth it if there is a chance the OEM replacement is likely to fail also.

 

I used a jackstand and some long boards to make sure the load was distributed. Nothing fancy. Now that Direzna mount looks pretty nice, but the OEM one I replaced is still working.

 

NewTIS is no longer available. Does anyone have the torque specs for the upper engine mount bolts and know if locktite is necessary?

 

1AZ Engine mount to cylinder head - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M10 10.9 - Replace screws - Jointing torque 40 Nm Angle of rotation 90 °
2AZ Engine mount to side member - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm
3AZ Engine mounting bracket to cylinder head - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M10 8.8 - 41 Nm
4AZ Holder with rubber mount to oil sump - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm
5AZ Holder with rubber mount to front axle support - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm

 

Looks like only the first 3 pertain to that side mount?

Does the bracket need to be removed from the cylinder head to get the mount in/out?

 

Not sure if this is going to format properly but this is from newtis site:


Necessary preliminary tasks:

• Remove front underbody protection.
• Support engine / transmission with jack.
• Remove right headlight.

Removal: Release screw (2) and expanding rivet (1).

Loosen screws (3).

Remove upper and lower partition wall.
Remove refrigerant line from holder (1).

Detach holder (2) for refrigerant line.

Release screws (3) and screws (4).

Remove engine mount.
Installation: Install engine mount.

Tighten screws (3) and screws (4).

Parts: Replace screws (4).

Tightening torque 22 11 1/2AZ.

Tighten holder (2) for refrigerant line.

Clip refrigerant line into holder (1).
Install upper and lower partition wall.

Tighten down screws (3).

Tighten screw (2) and secure expanding rivet (1).
Required follow-up work:

• Remove jack from below engine / transmission.
• Install front underbody protection.
• Install the right headlight.

 

Thanks. so #4 follow 1AZ and #3 follow 2AZ?

 

Yup

 

I did this replacement with an OEM part on my 16 MCS hatch - you need to pull out the headlight but note/mark where the headlight adjustment screws are set so it all goes back nicely....and doesn't misalign etc. it was not a difficult job....the funniest part is my dealer told me it was probably squirrels or mice that ate the oil filled mount causing it to fail! LOL. Mine went around 110 thousand kms or 68 thousand miles.
Good news though! There is a finally a new after market kit ....albeit its designed for track....so not everyone's cup of tea...amd its only for the 2l engine so far but here's the link.
https://www.direnza.co.uk/bmw-mini-f...rque-mount-kit

 

Finally there is an aftermarket one but only fir tge 2 litre
https://www.direnza.co.uk/bmw-mini-f...rque-mount-kit

 

Hi and greetings from Germany,
first of all I want to say I am very thankful that this post exists as our "BMW dealer" who sold us the car (2015 Mini Cooper S with JCW Kit 1) was not able at all to resolve this issue. Very long, long story and I don't want to bore you to death with it.
After finally finding out what really was the problem for this irregular shaking/rattle/instable rpm in idle mode we also got a ridiculous quote for repairing it (even being still under extended warranty). They claimed it is a wear and tear and not a failure in the part itself. Anyhow,... I don't really want to comment on that (normal life expectancy of engine mounts is usually 12-15 years).
We ended up doing it by ourselves in a private workshop and I can say it is not as hard to do by yourself as it first seemed like. BUT an extensive set of ratchets/adapters is very handy to have as it is a bit quirky to get to the bolts without taking too many things apart. With a bit of fiddling you only have to remove the right headlight and nothing else.

Now to the point of this post. I wanted to let you know that by now there is even another revision of this part available. So it seems like BMW hasn't solved the wear and tear problem with previous revisions yet. Gladly giving you the new part number:
1x Engine Mount 22118835566 EUR 129,38 (previously 22118743621 and original was even different from that one, too)
2x ASA screw 22116858061 EUR 3,63 (still same)
3x Torx screw 07129908650 EUR 3,31 (still same)
We still went with the OEM part (expecting to repeat this job in approx. 5 years) and decided against reinforced aftermarket piece. In our believe the engine mount has been designed to give up under certain load (frontal/offset crash) to allow the engine dropping onto the road. This should prevent from further injuries to passengers as the engine squeezes under the chassis. Nobody plans to have such experience but we thought it's still worth considering. Maybe it's wrong after all and the aftermarket piece is perfectly alright but we were not able to find any crash test data. We also plan to exchange the lower engine mount with a reinforced part even though it doesn't show any indications of damage. But the engine/clutch has still this "wobble feeling" that you can also experience in other even new BMWs. Maybe we will even do the gear mount (driver side mount) but not decided on that as it looks rather okay.

For those interested here are some pictures of the old/new mount. As you can see the "old/worn" rubber part sits much lower inside the metal frame than the "new/fresh" one. We were seeing cracks and especially deformation under the weight of the engine. Once the part wasn't under weight anymore one could even assume it would be still okay but it wasn't.

deformation of lower rubber support causes the mount to sit "too low" in its casing


cracks visible under engine weight (using endoscope), unfortunately typical pictures for this part...

more cracks (picture taken with mobile phone)

new part on desk (engine side)

new part on desk (outside / chassis side)

comparison between old an new part (engine weight is already off by jack support which is why the mount is back up but still not as much as the new part)


new engine mount in place sits higher again/in proper position again compared to the worn one (engine weight is back on, support jack removed)

 

Glad I just found this thread. Took our F60 in for an oil change service (60K) and the dealer is telling me the upper engine mount is shot and wants $1500 to replace it. We have a third party extended warranty hoping that it will be covered, if not thanks to all for the research done. I might have to get my hands dirty.

 

Same here, had a oil change done, dealer informed me mount cracked, do not feel so bad $890, even with over charging for the engine mount $260, (local BMW dealer had it for$130!?) $170 hour labor rate! 3.5 hour job, includes replacing all the hardware.
3rd party warranty covered $500, so do not feel all that bad...then the dealer throws in a FREE bubble bath!

 

Well it took a week but my 3rd party warranty covered it. I was annoyed cause it took so long to get approval, what if I had been on the road trip and the CM broke down. I really wouldn't want to spend that time stranded somewhere. In all, it cost me a $200 deductible and a weeks time.

 

It's seems the mount is built on a fuild filled pad, which when it starts leaking, the mount starts to lower then then rubber gets torn/cracked from it being stretched.. increasing the back in forth motion of the motor/mount....if the sack was solid if would last longer, yes, slight vibration increase may a accure, but it cannot be that much of increase.

 

The Up Side to dealer doing the engine mount is will be warrentied for 2 yr 30 thousand miles.
also once you see fuild under the mount, it's trash, my looked like it only had a slight tear in reality when removed it was torn up very bad. $890 total


​​​​​​

 

This is just poor design engineering from BMW. Mine went at 30k. No justification for such a critical component failing in such a short time. I fought with my dealership and they relented and did it for free. Now my sunroof has stopped working. I think I’m done with Mini’s😕😕😡😡

 

That top spacing needs to be reinforced with 3M Window Weld. I've tried out 4 mounts, with different fill positions. If we fill the void on all 3 voids we will experience a stronger vibration with a stock setup, but with an upgraded downpipe (in my case, MarioKart's), then there is a slight pre-stress due to how the downpipe is angled, and if you use a solid mount, you will feel some very bad vibes.

Anyways, as everyone's complaint says, and I'm an engineer by education and trade, I can already tell you no matter what revision Mini makes, as long as they resort to this same design, it'll still rip the fluid pouch open quite easily for enthusiastic oriented drivers. It's because of the high torque versus the rubber's type, volume, shape, and general design. If you use the 3M Window Weld to pad those void spaces a little bit, you can prolong the life of the mount and get away with the direct vibration that extra padding might yield.

 

Same thing happened to me, went in for an oil change, dealer had special running on spark plug change, I said oh well 50,000 miles do it, they do their inspection and notice fluid under motor mount.... Once you see fluid the motor mount is trash, the motor starts to sag, causing mount to tear, filling an old damaged mount with that sealant does not bring the mount back up high enough to hold the motor up level for very long. Now filling a good motor will extend the life.
mini of ramsey nj, $890 with a full 2 yr 30000 replacement warranty. They charged $230 for the engine mount I had to bite the bullet over priced, took them only a 1.5 hour did it while I waited. I had had a third party extended warranty it covered $510.
I found the mount at several BMW dealers for an average of $130, if I did not have the warranty I would have done it myself, 3 of the main motor bolts are 1 time use...the other 4 you can get away with...but advise get all new bolts only $20...supporting the motor keeping it from dropping makes the job go alot easier. Head light removal a most easy to do soak the 4 bolts with penetrating fluid of choice so they don't break the mounting posts

 

I found the mount at several BMW dealers for an average of $130, if I did not have the warranty I would have done it myself, 3 of the main motor bolts are 1 time use...the other 4 you can get away with...but advise get all new bolts only $20...supporting the motor keeping it from dropping makes the job go alot easier. Head light removal a most easy to do soak the 4 bolts with penetrating fluid of choice so they don't break the mounting posts

 

Thanks for this post, I have just confirmed that this is also the same part used on the GP3, lets see if it lasts longer than the std f56 one

 

Great info on this post. We have some other aftermarket options here.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/22118743621/

 

The new mount is on my October 2020 build Paddy Hopkirk so most likely on other S at that time.

 

If folks are surrounding the rubber bit with caulk or windo-weld, would a clear silicone work as well to provide some reinforcement and added cushioning?

 

Thanks for checking this out. I'm sorry if I missed this, did you install this other motor mount as of yet? Too soon to know if it'll last any longer.