Electrical Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide

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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 12:29 AM
  #551  
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Thanks, Ordered! Ship to NYC and my friend there Ship it to China. Haha, can not wait for coding my car.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 12:46 AM
  #552  
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Kerry, it should solve that issue - I'll try it on this 2013 in the next couple days. Thanks for the kind words.

cwiley, try WL_POL - those should be the corner lights.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 12:54 AM
  #553  
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Also, just an FYI - I've been using a white PCB since the beginning for the R52, R53, R55, R56, and R60. Never had any issues.

I'm posting these high-res pics so you can compare chips, etc. The switch is there to either bridge or sever the connection to pins 7/8 and subsequently code either Gen 1 or Gen 2.

Happy coding!



 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #554  
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The differences between the board above and the board that people are having problems with are:

Problemed board has a voltage regulator, board above does not. (board above has the space on the circuit board for a voltage regulator though.)

Problemed board has a very thin wire connecting pin 1 to the board, board above looks thick. Looks like a the ground wire. This could be the issue.

And of course, problemed board has 8 and 9 soldered together, not a switch like the above board.


I might be able to get the problemed cables working, but my car is on the boat. It's probably another month before it gets here.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #555  
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Excellent info! Thanks for the detailed comparison - it will certainly help identify the differences between old/new white boards, and the green boards.

Edit: I should probably add that I put the switch in there to go back and forth between Gen 1 and Gen 2 coding. Didn't want to make it look like it was there originally.
 

Last edited by Theta; Jan 3, 2013 at 11:34 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 11:32 PM
  #556  
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No Doubt, Here I got all the kind help in details, Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 07:53 AM
  #557  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Theta
Also, just an FYI - I've been using a white PCB since the beginning for the R52, R53, R55, R56, and R60. Never had any issues.

I'm posting these high-res pics so you can compare chips, etc. The switch is there to either bridge or sever the connection to pins 7/8 and subsequently code either Gen 1 or Gen 2.

Happy coding!



thanks,Theta. Found exact same one in which cost only $20, pin7/8 soldered, will check it when delivered
 
Attached Thumbnails Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide-201301030249201.jpg   Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide-201301030249391.jpg  
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #558  
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Hey guys, looking for a good forum like this to program a BMW M3. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #559  
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That's easy: bmwcoding.com - it's the Alpha and Omega of BMW coding.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 05:31 PM
  #560  
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Originally Posted by mikecalgon
thanks,Theta. Found exact same one in which cost only $20, pin7/8 soldered, will check it when delivered
Don't blame me if it doesn't work - I just wanted to post my experience with the cable I purchased a few years ago.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 05:25 AM
  #561  
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Originally Posted by Theta
Don't blame me if it doesn't work - I just wanted to post my experience with the cable I purchased a few years ago.
No, I won't. Both ordered.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 05:41 AM
  #562  
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Originally Posted by mikecalgon
thanks,Theta. Found exact same one in which cost only $20, pin7/8 soldered, will check it when delivered
I reported on those cables a few posts/pages back, they don't work for Dcan vehicles.

Originally Posted by Theta
Don't blame me if it doesn't work - I just wanted to post my experience with the cable I purchased a few years ago.
Exactly

Originally Posted by mikecalgon
No, I won't. Both ordered.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 02:44 PM
  #563  
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I just tried to activate the WL_POL for the scuttle welcome lights. It was already activated but they do not turn on.

Here is 3 WL that I found that weren't activated and weren't in your list. Do you know which lights these are for?

WL_BFD
WL_FRA_V
WL_FRA_H
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #564  
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WL_BFD = Brake Force Light

Unsure of the other two.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #565  
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Have you gotten your cable yet?

Originally Posted by cm.d
I emailed every seller on eBay. Only one person said they have the green circuit board. The seller is adgogogo.

Still waiting for my mini to be shipped. Maybe a month more before I can test the cables.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 02:47 AM
  #566  
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Still waiting. Should be about 20-25 days from the time I ordered it.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 05:39 AM
  #567  
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Originally Posted by cm.d
Still waiting. Should be about 20-25 days from the time I ordered it.
Me too, not delivered to NYC yet, then wait it from NYC to China.
My OBD port pin 7 is empty, so it does not matter if pin7,8 soldered.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #568  
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Cables are here. Mini is not! Here are a couple pictures of the cable(s).

Left: Common white board eBay cable that all sellers are selling now, which do NOT work according to this thread.
Picture shows modified pin 1, and unsoldered connected pins. No idea if these mods work.

Right: Green board. Might be the old working version. No mini to test this with.

There are a few differences from Theta's working cable and my green board. Pin 1 is connected differently. Also on the top of the board, it doesn't have a capacitor on the right hand side. If anyone was following my earlier post, I was wrong about the voltage regulator. The working board has a smaller voltage regulator than the non-working, although I don't think this is the issue with the cable not working with the Mini.

Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide-9lzyu.jpg

Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide-htomg.jpg
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 08:45 PM
  #569  
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Dug mine back out and moved the switch to show what's underneath - here's the issue.

My old white cable has the same structure as the now-green board. Look at the resistor cluster on the top-side - the new white is a jumble. The green is only two. The old white is also two. Well, mystery solved. The older white cables are essentially the green cables now. The new white cables are junk.

 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #570  
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Great work Theta!!! I'm confident the cable will work. I will probably go ahead and order one (the only downside being this seller unlike most wants too much for expedited shipping).

If anyone is interested in setting up a group buy I can organize one from either this vendor (if I or someone else can verify this cable works on DCAN vehicles) or I can set one up from one-stop-electronics as well. Their cables are always good and working (and come with an adapter for k-line).

If we do arrange a group buy it would be for expedited shipping as I'm sure no one wants to wait 2-3 weeks!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 03:40 AM
  #571  
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That would be helpful. I am waiting for the one bought from eBay. Maybe 4 weeks, headache.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 06:08 AM
  #572  
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Originally Posted by ke3ee
If theres anyone in or around Pittsburgh that does coding, I would love to have my 2012 ALL4s doors unlock when the key is removed.


It is more fun if you do it by yourself. Not diffcult at all, and I am just new hand.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 06:17 AM
  #573  
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Thanks to Triple_O, Theta, cm.d

I did get a cheap cable in China, same to the green one cm.d mentioned in post #568.

I did my first successful coding. amazing.

Done! Close Windows & Sunroof w/ Lock on Keyfob
KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG_FB
aktiv

Original coding does have it. Unlock Doors When Key Is Removed
ER_KEYOUT_AUTOVR
aktiv

Done, but not tested. Opening Door Does Not Stop Window Roll-Up (60 Seconds)
FH_ABSCHALTKRITERIUM
nicht_aktiv

No such field. But my manual said it has this functin.
Holding Fob Trunk Button Sounds Panic Alarm ** Works only on models w/ Alarm Package!
SONDERTASTE_PANIKALARM
panikalarm

EXCITING. I am going to code more modules, in a deep night time!

Thanks again, Triple_O, I think there is something I can do: I can order cables from here for someone need it. cheaper solution.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 06:37 AM
  #574  
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Here is the cable I bought a year ago to code my 2006 BWM 530xi.

It looks like it will work. I will be checking this weekend. I have the software loaded from my BWM coding.

Cheers
 
Attached Thumbnails Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide-image.jpg  
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #575  
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Can someone test their faulty white cable and change the Latency to either 2 or 4 and see if they have any luck (obviously make sure pins 7 & 8 are disconnected)

Originally Posted by mikecalgon
Thanks to Triple_O, Theta, cm.d

I did get a cheap cable in China, same to the green one cm.d mentioned in post #568.

I did my first successful coding. amazing.

Done! Close Windows & Sunroof w/ Lock on Keyfob
KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG_FB
aktiv

Original coding does have it. Unlock Doors When Key Is Removed
ER_KEYOUT_AUTOVR
aktiv

Done, but not tested. Opening Door Does Not Stop Window Roll-Up (60 Seconds)
FH_ABSCHALTKRITERIUM
nicht_aktiv

No such field. But my manual said it has this functin.
Holding Fob Trunk Button Sounds Panic Alarm ** Works only on models w/ Alarm Package!
SONDERTASTE_PANIKALARM
panikalarm

EXCITING. I am going to code more modules, in a deep night time!

Thanks again, Triple_O, I think there is something I can do: I can order cables from here for someone need it. cheaper solution.
Thanks mikecalgon. I'm looking into some solutions now. Also to note that the code you want that does not effect window roll up is something along the line of 'TUERAUF_STOP_MAUT'

Originally Posted by kerrys914
Here is the cable I bought a year ago to code my 2006 BWM 530xi.

It looks like it will work. I will be checking this weekend. I have the software loaded from my BWM coding.

Cheers
Can you post more pictures? These cables that have been sold show that all of them will work on k-line vehicles but not DCAN. Your E60 falls under k-line.
 
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