That makes a lot of sense, thanks for the clarification! Is there a separate "model number" for the error free LED and canbus LED or is that something I chose at checkout?

Thanks.

 

Yeah, that makes a lot of sense, thanks for clarifying. Is there a different model number for "error free" or "canbus LED" or is that something I choose at checkout?

Thanks, BTW if this is a double post sorry...

 

Error free or canbus just means they have resistors built into the bulb allready so you get no warning lights on the dash. just install and enjoy.

 

I just read the "LED Switchback Bulbs - Do Not Use" thread. Some pretty insane info on there!

Appreciate the help.

 

So far, I've replaced the parking lights, brake lights and turn signals with LEDs. I chose to code them out instead of using resistors. I have a few comments about the results that I'd like to share. Remember, YMMV!

1. Front Parking Lights (WLED-CWHP15-T): I absolutely LOVE the front parking lights as LEDs. Probably one of the best effects to spice up the front end and a fitting match to the color temperature of the xenons. Really cool. Highly recommended.

2. Front Turn Signals (GP-1157-SMD-30A): If you have the clear turn signal option, you know that it still shows some amber 'cause the bulb is amber. You won't be disappointed if you pop in a couple of amber LEDs! No amber reflections. Totally clear. However, I must say that they are almost as bright and the original bulbs, but the difference may be in the reflective pattern in the housing being "tuned" to the bulb. You can only notice a difference if you put an LED in one and keep the bulb in the other and turn on the hazards. Recommended.

3. Rear Turn Signals (GP-1156-SMD-30A): Hmmmm. I must say that I think the amber LEDs that I used stand out from a color perspective, but they seem noticeably dimmer than the bulbs, especially when the brake lights are on. The red lens may be filtering out too much light. I may actually replace them with the red LEDs. Not sure I'd recommend the amber LEDs for the rear turn signals.

UPDATE: I replaced the rear turn signals with the red LEDs (GP-1156-SMD-30R) and they were ok, but I like the color difference with the ambers better. I'm now back to the amber LEDs

That's about it for now...

 

So how did you code out the error messages that would normally flash when using LED w/o resisitors ? Last and most importantly, how can I code out the gong w/o going back to school to get a CS degree ??? Many thanks in advance

 

I'm interested in this answer as well. Thx.

 

The NCS Expert programming environment and a specialized cable (available on eBay) are used to code-out the bulb checks and to make adjustments to control module settings (e.g.; gong squelching). theta has done an absolutely marvelous job of providing instructions, documentation, and configuration files in the Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide thread located in this forum. Tip 'o hat to GTECKO for the original work need to bring this to us. HERE is theta's first post that has everything a beginner might need. You should also scan-through the rest of the posts to that thread to add to your knowledge.

If you want to take on this learning curve, it is doable but know that it will be best if you are familiar with the Windows world (from a somewhat technical standpoint) and have a knack for logic and organization. Also, one of the first things you should learn is how to reset the control modules back to their default values! NOTE: rarely, in extreme cases of stupidity or lack of care, you can "brick" a module and require a flat-bed trip to the dealer. Also, stay away from the ABS module!

If you feel like you may not want to take this on yourself, you can try to find someone in your area who has experience with NCS Expert. You may wish to scan THIS thread in the 2nd Generation forums to see if someone close to you has posted their availability.

HTH,

 

Just wanted to note that based on my experience to date with a 2012 R55, the "Cree Eagle Eye" units here:

http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm

don't require resistors or coding; they appear to draw enough current that the car is happy there's a real bulb there.

 

DrZ,

which "Cree Eagle Eye" are you refering to?

12 Watt Eagle EYE SMT Tower
4x 3 Watt-3 Chip High Powered Rectangular Chip SMT LEDS

 

Scott, the "Cree Eagle Eye" is the "Cree Eagle Eye" ...

However, I just discovered a couple of days ago two important things:

#1 - the bulb out test is not as simple as I thought; the brake light bulb out test, for example, still triggers with these LEDs in, but only after ~5 seconds, and it didn't trip while I was parked in the garage - it wasn't until I drove off with them fitted that it triggered.

#2 - the front turn signals are not 1156, they're a different animal with a different base. It will probably be necessary to remove the base from the Cree Eagle Eye bulbs and replace it in order to fit them to the front turn signals at least on my R55.

 

 

DrZ

then i think i will save a couple $$$ and just buy one of the 12 watt lamps and test with it.

what does the front bulb base look like?

scott

 

DrZ

a "bulb finder"

http://www.superbrightleds.com/vehic...amps/41/397/52

scott

 

The bulb is PY21W, also known as 7507. It is the same as 1156 but the nubs on the base are offset at 120 degrees (instead of 180 degrees for 1156). You can use an 1156 if you file off one of the nubs.

 

Autlolumination also sell replacement bases. I'm going to try removing the base from one of the Cree amber 1156s to see how practical replacing the base is.

[edit] Not too bad:

 

DrZ

on the autolumination page for 1156, if you scroll WAYYYYYY down, he sells PY21W lamps.....

Scott

 

Yes, but not the "Cree Eagle Eye" version.

The reason I'm focussing on these is that they're a single-chip 4-LED design with a decent lens and heatsinking, reasonably solidly assembled. I'm just not wild about the haphazard multi-PCB/multi-LED assemblies from a reliability perspective; solder is not a good structural material in the face of vibration, and there are too many possible sources of failure.

On a side note, their "patented circuitry" for these lamps appears to be an implementation of the PowTech PT4115 reference design; see some examples here:

http://www.ftp.cnchungary.com/Varsan...tDrive/PT4115/

It's a good design, but I am struggling with how you'd get something patentable out of that...

 

Why don't you just file off one of the nubs on the 1156 base, as I suggested earlier? It works, I've done this sort of thing.

 

I could just solder a 10W LED and the drive circuit directly into the socket too. 8)

Honestly though, the base with the right pins on it is $0.30, and I need to order other parts from Autolumination anyway, so I figured I might as well do it "right".

 

BTW, this is very common practice, because there is such a limited selection of bulbs with 7507 base. 1156 has the same spec, just nubs in different positions. It only takes a few minutes to file off a nub.

 

Do those canbus Cree Eagle eyes work in a turn signal application? Do they flash normally and no bulbout (without programming, and how do you program a new flash rate anyway)?

I love my Cree back up lights, but I am frustrated with my current LED turn signals. They look great but no matter the resistor value, I can't shake the bulbout and the initial flash rate.

 

I am curious what LED would fit to replace the sun visor lamps on each side of the mirror? Those are so yellow looking they are almost orange on my car and they have very poor light output.

 

Just want to confirm . Can I use WLED-XHP5 for 6 sides markers ? And do they need resistor ?

Thanks

 

Any bulbs on the side and inside of the car can be replaced w/o using resistors. Any bulbs on the front or rear of the car will require led with resistors- this includes the license plate bulb.