Installed Cree XPE 194 LED bulbs in the two front parking lights tonight. Coded out the bulb checks. These bulbs are bright for single LED bulbs. I have a set of 15 SMD bulbs coming I am going to try that might be brighter. There is a definite limitation on the width of bulb that will physically fit in that housing. Probably 11-12mm max.

I am also concerned with heat from the halogen bulb damaging the LED. These LEDs have a small heatsink. The 15smd LEDs do not.

I am also considering going to a 3000k hid kit in the fogs, right now they are Nokya Yellow.

 

I went with these:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...se-tower/1129/

They should arrive on Wednesday. Really hoping they'll fit. I think they'll fit width-wise (only 11 mm), but they are 36 mm long, so hopefully they are short enough.

 

Cree XPE single LED Parking lights and OEM xenons lit:


Cree XPE single LED Parking lights, Nokya Yellow Fogs lights, ans OEM xenons lit:

 

Got the bulbs the other day and threw them in. They fit just fine and really make things a lot brighter. It was a great upgrade. Only problem is that the driver's side bulb seems to throw an error code when I first turn on the lights. The code eventually clears itself after the lights are continuously on for about 15 seconds or so.

Any idea what that's all about? Do I need to disconnect and reconnect the battery?

 

I had to code out a couple more values to get the code to go away completely for my bulbs. Mine didn't have any kind of canbus cancelling.

I can tell you the values I changed if you want.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have the means to code anything out, as I have neither a PC nor a device to plug into the car.

In any event, my bulbs are canbus bulbs, though I guess it goes to show that they are not 100% foolproof. Truth be told, it's a minor issue and I don't mind it that much since, like I said, it goes away almost immediately.

 

Ahh, well, no matter then!

Pics of the new bulbs? My single LED "cree xp" bulbs are more of a single point of very intense light and they look as such in the housing (i.e. they don't really fill the housing with light).

I want to get some multi-led bulbs that fill the housing with light. Unfortunately my experience with those is that I've had some bulbs have some of the individual LEDs fail, or start to blink...

 

Just replaced the park lights and coded the following values to nicht_aktiv

WARMUE_POL_M2_50_M1_8
KALTUE_POL_M2_50_M1_8

 

Has anyone installed these?

http://www.outmotoring.com/countryma...er-lights.html

I would like to know if they give you a check bulb light?

 

I think they will without resistors

 

They will not.

Side lighting on the Countryman is not warm/cold checked. Only the lights facing fore and aft get checked (including the license plate lights).

 

I'll try to grab pics. But they do fill the well up with light as you say. The effect is perfect.

Only one problem: I am getting the code for the left parking lamp and don't know what to do. Some facts:

1. It goes away 5 sec. after you turn the lights on
2. It goes away if I put a conventional bulb back in
3. The left side still comes up even when I swapped the LEDs from left to right and vice versa
4. I'm using canbus LEDs

The fact the left side complains regardless of which bulb is in there seems weird to me. It's as though the left side refuses to be fooled by canbus. Ideas?

 

Thanks. I just ordered them.

 

clip a few pictures when you get them installed. i'm curious to see what they look like.

they also have blackout film, which i can't see lasting very long.
https://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coo...or-covers.html

 

I will get some pics posted when I get them on. I saw that tint film for the corner reflectors, but I thought the same thing that it probably wouldn't last long or even look that good. I think I'm going to have the place I'm getting the windows tinted at do the corner reflectors and the taillights. I think they use a high quality spray tint.

 

Here is the before and after. I think they look awesome!

 

There is no such thing as a "canbus LED".

The footwell module (FRM) measures the current draw of the circuit at various times (if you have LEDs installed, you may see them blink oddly when you turn the vehicle on) and it uses this measurement to decide whether the bulb is working or not.

The current flow through an LED is very different from the flow through an incandescent bulb, and the FRM treats this as a failed bulb.

You can mimic the current flow through a bulb well enough to fool the FRM by placing a load (e.g. a resistor) across the circuit, which is what these so-called "canbus" LEDs seem to be doing. This tends to generate a lot of heat.

The best option is to code out the bulb checks, if you possibly can.

= Mike

 

wow those are nice.

 

Amazing look. Are they as linear IRL as they are in the camera pic?

 

oh side notes, I don't like that website.....those corner reflector blackouts are taking away the legal and SAFE aspect of those reflectors, ugly as they may be....and they tout a simple foam filter safe for your engine? Dirt will get sucked in there, not blocked. Bleh. /rant

 

over 6 months using my led turn signals with resistors and zero problems. still one of my favorite mods i've done so far

 

Another thumbs-up for the Cree XPE 194 bulbs (e.g. search http://autolumination.com/194.htm for XPE).

Not only are they much brighter than anything I've tested previously, they fit the 194 bulb holders much better.

= Mike

 

Do these throw codes in license plate plugs? i've tried 3 different LED bulbs there, and all have thrown codes, would be willing to pay the $$ for these if they infact don't throw codes

 

Even with the blackouts they still reflect when light shines on them and you still see the bulb light up. Just a little less obvious due to color diffence

 

I understand the concepts. The "canbus" term comes from the retailers themselves, virtually all of whom - including one that you linked to - use that term to describe the bulbs with individual resistors.

Is there an alternative to individual resistors on each bulb, such as a master resistor that I can wire in?