--

 

There is a master resistor you can wire in. It's a K-DCAN cable.

I promise it's less trouble to code out the checks than to mess with the factory wiring and potentially mess something up. If I were you, and planning to do any more than literally a couple of LEDs, I'd buy the $30 cable off ebay and code them out. Saves you a ton of trouble wiring.

 

LESS TROUBLE! Are you a German computer programmer? 1 downloading and operating the software, 2 understanding German to read and change module settings, 3 if you mess something up good luck explaining that to your mini dealer.

 

The best alternative is to disable the bulb checks via software. The process isn't terribly difficult, and the hardware's reasonably cheap as well.

The all-in-one downloadable and instructions in the Countryman forum were good enough to code out the bulb checks on my R55.

 

Ok, you make a good point I suppose.

To me it was less trouble, as I am in fact a computer programmer who knows a bit of german. I did the resistor thing on the car I owned before last, and I messed up some wiring once, so I avoid doing anything to factory wiring ever.

I suppose it's not the solution for everyone, and it could make you a bit nervous if you screw up. Luckily your dealership, if they have to update your car's computer, will likely re-write the settings anyways, so if you screw up (at least to a certain degree) your dealership can fix it (obviously not at your cost, but still).

 

Well, I tend to agree that coding-out the lamp checks is the best way to go...but, then again, I've been programming computers since 1978. I agree that there are some risks for those who are careless and impatient or just not equipped for the task. The first thing anyone should learn is how to set the modules back to their defaults.

However, another way to approach the whole coding-out issue is to have someone who *knows* how to do this perform the job for you. Yeah, it might cost you a 6-pack, but the results are definitely worth it. Is there someone in your area who can help your? THIS thread might help you find that person.

HTH,

 

Has anyone running the Superbrightleds.com 45 LED tower bulbs had any issues with the TPM system? My car has been at the dealer a total of 3 weeks and they have replaced numerous parts attached to the TPM system and replaced the module 3 times, the last time they replaced the module, they pulled my bulbs out and put stock bulbs in and now they say it is working again but I can't use the bulbs I just paid good money for. And to add to it, they say they can't link the issues with the TPM system to the light bulbs, but won't warranty another module if I am using the light bulbs and it goes out again.

 

This is the craziest dealer claim I have hear in a while. There should be no way any LED bulb should affect your tire pressure monitoring system. I suppose they charged you labor once they found out that an "aftermarket LED bulb caused the electrical issue." Seems an easy way to blame the customer for an unrelated warranty issue.

What does your dealer's invoice state the fix was?

I have LEDs in many places in my car and have no phantom electrical system issues.

 

Observation:

Ok. To be fair, they actually don't believe that the LEDs caused the issue. However, they want to make sure they are dealing with a "stock" electrical system if they troubleshoot further. IMHO, it's actually a reasonable request with something as vague as the problem we have.

xenor -- In my case, I am more interested in solving the TPMS issue rather than condemning a dealer's response to the presence to the LEDs. Obviously, there is no association, especially if the lamp checks have been coded-out. So, I'd put the incandescent lamps back in until the TPMS system is sorted.

For the record, my TPMS went on the fritz two times without LEDs installed (but coded out) and the problem reoccurred before I reinstalled the LEDs. Also, in the last month, it (briefly) happened again for about three minutes when I was on the highway...seemed to reset itself, though.

FWIW,

 

Walk0080 I agree 100%. I've said it on other LED threads, Avoid CANBUS LED's, they just burn out. I am afraid of programming the car. You don' want to alter wiring if at all possible. The answer is get an LED that draws enough current to fake out the computer. The plus side is it will also be nice and bright.

I am looking at these for my eyelids:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350650986987...=p5197.c0.m619

These have R5 CREE emitters (7 Watts which should avoid a bulbout with no extra tricks). R5 is several grades brighter than Q5. My back up lights are Q5 CREE and I can see them in my rear view mirror. To put that in perspective that is brighter than a 21 watt incandescent bulb (my opinion, because I can't see the stockers in my mirrors). These should be awesome as eyelids. The fit, however, is going to be very tight. I may need to trim them down a hair to get them in or open the eyelid opening. They will work in my rear fogs too, so not too much risk if this does not work out. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Update: Xenor can you post a pic of your Cree eyelids (the bulbs) . I just read your post and it sounds like you shot my idea down before I even got to try it. Just curious if yours are R5 or Q5? I see your complaint about the single point light source not cutting it. I am currently running 13 SMD ebay specials that have actually held up for a couple of years. I have changed them once since 2009. My gallery has a pic of them in my garage. The light does fill the eyelid. I wonder what yours look like from further away (inside the beam).

another update: OK I couldn't wait XPE is rated R4.
http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree
So those are just a tad dimmer than what I was looking at. I would still like a from-across-the-street-eyelid-shot Xenor when you get a chance.

Thanks

 

So, if I read you right, the CREE LEDs will not throw a code? If so, do those work for the front parking lights (above the fogs)?

 

Hey smoke05S,
You might be onto something with those R5 cree 194 bulbs. My only concern is if they would physically fit into the housing. If they do, they might be worth a shot. I am running a tower style bulb in the parking light housing (above the fog). I actually moved the cree bulb I got to the scuttle indicator light, and I like it there. It's hella bright and visible when I put on my turn signal.



I might be stupid, but how do I change the reverse light bulb? I took off a panel and there is a bunch of foam in there. I was afraid to go pulling it out so I didn't change the bulb. I don't even know if the ones I got would fit. Also, has anyone coded out the bulb warning on the reverse lights?

p.s. I'll take some pics.

 

I haven't taken any pictures yet, but I will. Right now I'm running some 15 SMD LED bulbs as discussed on the "LED Bulbs" thread. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330608491798...#ht_3489wt_980

I took a chance and ordered the R5 bulbs you mentioned above. There's a chance that their 11mm girth might not allow them into the housing, but if they work, they should be pretty impressive. I'll be your guinea pig if you haven't already ordered them!

I also ordered an HID fog kit to put in the fog housing. I have nokya bulbs there but I miss the 3000k HID fogs I had on my GTI, so I went ahead and got them.

 

Installed those R5 bulbs you mentioned. The eBay seller shipped quickly from California, USPS. They fit no problem and are quite bright.

 

Some pics (iphone 5, I'll snap some with my DSLR later)

 

Just realized those pictures are rather awful. I posted via the app on my phone, so they were just quick iphone pics. I'll snap some proper ones later, maybe once my HID kit comes in.

 

These guys arent throwing off codes? I really like the color and brightness! I am worried about the heat put off by cree chips tho.. I have some as back up bulbs and they are amazing...

 

Which bulbs are those? Do you have a link?

 

Did we ever figure out if the R5 Cree lamps pulled enough juice to avoid the error? I'm currently looking at these for both my reverse lights and my parking/city lights.

Just waiting on the seller to let me know the color... Hoping for a 5000k "look"... I think the R5 is around 500 lumens, so 6000k from that small bulb might look more like 5000k... maybe

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-Super-Bright-Xenon-White-T25-3156-3157-CREE-R5-12-SMD-5050-LED-Light-Bulbs-/111190074922?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e371e62a&vxp=mtr

 

Has anyone else discovered any other NON-Canbus LED lights for the rear turns, brake, and reverse that draw enough current so no error messages are present from the dash.

I know superbrightleds.com has some that work for $24.95 each but I wondering if anyone has discoved any that are less expensive.

 

cm.d, the R5 bulbs from ebay finally failed. I think they got too hot for the tiny piece of metal around the plastic bulb housing and the metal bit separated from the white plastic bit. Probably a combination of the housing being hot already due to HID bulbs, and the R5 bin too hot for the tiny heat sink. One of them failed, and I replaced them both.

Anyways...I'm now running essentially the same bulb but with a Q5 bin, and having good results. I ordered 4 from this ebay seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291009722727...84.m1497.l2649

I ordered 4 because, with eBay bulbs, I've found that the quality is not always good and you either get a bad bulb or defect (resulting in a PIA return/exchange) or sometimes the color won't match from right to left.

In my case I now have two sets that closely match (I paired up the like colors if they did have a very slight color difference) in case one fails again.

I have a good feeling about these, but it is winter here and heat in that housing is likely not an issue.

 

So I have a slight problem. I have a paceman, and I've replaced the tail bulbs with the 45 towers. The right turn signal is doing the rapid flash, but not the left. I have not added any resistors, as i thought the higher wattage would keep it from doing that. Can anyone with the 45 towers confirm that resistors are needed? The left side is flashing normally, so I'm a bit confused.


------------edit-----------------

Now the left side is rapid flashing. I'm going to add a load resistor, that seems like the best option.

 

Hello, just thought I'd revive an old thread. Hopefully someone can help me out. I just swapped out my front turn signals with Philips LED. I have everything coded out in my car so I get no rapid flash or bulb out warning. The only issue I have is weird at the least. The passenger side works like its suppose to but the driver side doesn't flash at all. If I sides with the bases or bulbs (passenger to driver and vice versa), same thing happens. So that means both bulbs work and nothing is wrong with the bases. When I put the stock bulb back in it flashes, which means that there isn't a blown fuse or anything and that everything is working fine. So after all the testing, I have reason to believe that for some some strange reason the +/- terminals are switched. This is the only logical explanation why this would happen, especially with an LED bulb. I'm thinking of fixing the issue by swapping the plugs in the harness. Does anyone know which wires are for the turn signal and which one is +, which one is - ? Anyone's help or input would be great. Thanks.

 

I'm bumping this thread to see if there are any updates with some of the new products on the market and to see if we have any 2015 Countryman owners who have done the LED upgrade. Any updated opinions on CANBUS?

Thoughts about the following:
H13 LED Headlight Kit
http://www.xenondepot.com/H13-LED-He...h13-led-hl.htm

1156 P21W LED Philips Replacement Bulb (as tail/brake lights only)
http://www.xenondepot.com/1156-LED-P...-p/12839b2.htm

Thanks,

 

There is no CANBUS at the lights. LED advertisements that talk about CANBUS are lying to you (that includes the Philips 1156 you listed). The most charitable interpretation is that this is the same kind of stupidity that leads people to call USB memory sticks "USBs".

The reality is that the manufacturer puts a resistor (or other circuit) in the light assembly that fools the ECU into thinking that it is a conventional bulb; this means the light heats up (because the ECU measures the amount of energy that the light is using, and that energy has to be converted into heat), and heat is the enemy of LEDs.

In general, if you are thinking about adding LEDs to your Mini, find someone local that can code out the bulb checks. That saves you from the bulb-out warnings, and lets you keep your LEDs cool at the same time.