Electrical LED Bulbs
#76
the best way to tell is to remove the bulb and look at the bottom. if there is 1 contact in the middle its 1156. if there are 2 contacts then they are 1157's. you can type in your type "1156 or 1157" in ebay and find tons of options. to avoid having to install resistors "which was easier than i thought" also include error free LED, or canbus LED. those bulbs have the resistors built-in, but cost more. there is a thread in the electrical section called " LED switchback bulbs, do not use" that explains alot of things about led's and is worth checking out before you buy. i hope this helps.
Thanks.
#77
the best way to tell is to remove the bulb and look at the bottom. if there is 1 contact in the middle its 1156. if there are 2 contacts then they are 1157's. you can type in your type "1156 or 1157" in ebay and find tons of options. to avoid having to install resistors "which was easier than i thought" also include error free LED, or canbus LED. those bulbs have the resistors built-in, but cost more. there is a thread in the electrical section called " LED switchback bulbs, do not use" that explains alot of things about led's and is worth checking out before you buy. i hope this helps.
Thanks, BTW if this is a double post sorry...
#79
Appreciate the help.
#80
So far, I've replaced the parking lights, brake lights and turn signals with LEDs. I chose to code them out instead of using resistors. I have a few comments about the results that I'd like to share. Remember, YMMV!
1. Front Parking Lights (WLED-CWHP15-T): I absolutely LOVE the front parking lights as LEDs. Probably one of the best effects to spice up the front end and a fitting match to the color temperature of the xenons. Really cool. Highly recommended.
2. Front Turn Signals (GP-1157-SMD-30A): If you have the clear turn signal option, you know that it still shows some amber 'cause the bulb is amber. You won't be disappointed if you pop in a couple of amber LEDs! No amber reflections. Totally clear. However, I must say that they are almost as bright and the original bulbs, but the difference may be in the reflective pattern in the housing being "tuned" to the bulb. You can only notice a difference if you put an LED in one and keep the bulb in the other and turn on the hazards. Recommended.
3. Rear Turn Signals (GP-1156-SMD-30A): Hmmmm. I must say that I think the amber LEDs that I used stand out from a color perspective, but they seem noticeably dimmer than the bulbs, especially when the brake lights are on. The red lens may be filtering out too much light. I may actually replace them with the red LEDs. Not sure I'd recommend the amber LEDs for the rear turn signals.
UPDATE: I replaced the rear turn signals with the red LEDs (GP-1156-SMD-30R) and they were ok, but I like the color difference with the ambers better. I'm now back to the amber LEDs
That's about it for now...
1. Front Parking Lights (WLED-CWHP15-T): I absolutely LOVE the front parking lights as LEDs. Probably one of the best effects to spice up the front end and a fitting match to the color temperature of the xenons. Really cool. Highly recommended.
2. Front Turn Signals (GP-1157-SMD-30A): If you have the clear turn signal option, you know that it still shows some amber 'cause the bulb is amber. You won't be disappointed if you pop in a couple of amber LEDs! No amber reflections. Totally clear. However, I must say that they are almost as bright and the original bulbs, but the difference may be in the reflective pattern in the housing being "tuned" to the bulb. You can only notice a difference if you put an LED in one and keep the bulb in the other and turn on the hazards. Recommended.
3. Rear Turn Signals (GP-1156-SMD-30A): Hmmmm. I must say that I think the amber LEDs that I used stand out from a color perspective, but they seem noticeably dimmer than the bulbs, especially when the brake lights are on. The red lens may be filtering out too much light. I may actually replace them with the red LEDs. Not sure I'd recommend the amber LEDs for the rear turn signals.
UPDATE: I replaced the rear turn signals with the red LEDs (GP-1156-SMD-30R) and they were ok, but I like the color difference with the ambers better. I'm now back to the amber LEDs
That's about it for now...
Last edited by Koopah; 02-26-2012 at 05:29 AM.
#81
#83
If you want to take on this learning curve, it is doable but know that it will be best if you are familiar with the Windows world (from a somewhat technical standpoint) and have a knack for logic and organization. Also, one of the first things you should learn is how to reset the control modules back to their default values! NOTE: rarely, in extreme cases of stupidity or lack of care, you can "brick" a module and require a flat-bed trip to the dealer. Also, stay away from the ABS module!
If you feel like you may not want to take this on yourself, you can try to find someone in your area who has experience with NCS Expert. You may wish to scan THIS thread in the 2nd Generation forums to see if someone close to you has posted their availability.
HTH,
#84
Just wanted to note that based on my experience to date with a 2012 R55, the "Cree Eagle Eye" units here:
http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm
don't require resistors or coding; they appear to draw enough current that the car is happy there's a real bulb there.
http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm
don't require resistors or coding; they appear to draw enough current that the car is happy there's a real bulb there.
#85
DrZ,
which "Cree Eagle Eye" are you refering to?
12 Watt Eagle EYE SMT Tower
4x 3 Watt-3 Chip High Powered Rectangular Chip SMT LEDS
which "Cree Eagle Eye" are you refering to?
12 Watt Eagle EYE SMT Tower
4x 3 Watt-3 Chip High Powered Rectangular Chip SMT LEDS
7 Watt Eagle EYE SMT Tower
14x(.5) watt High Powered Wide Angle SMT LEDS
Cree Eagle Eye
5 Watt 4 Chip Super-High Powered LEDS
Eagle Eye 5
Wide-Angle 180 degrees High-Powered 5 Watt Led + 4x super-powered SMT Leds
Eagle Eye II
Wide-Angle 180 degrees High-Powered 3 Watt Luxeon Led--- -1-1/2" x 1" diameter
i was going to buy one each of the first 3 listed in amber, for a testing
(if my countryman ever arrives ... sigh)
scott
Cree Eagle Eye
5 Watt 4 Chip Super-High Powered LEDS
Eagle Eye 5
Wide-Angle 180 degrees High-Powered 5 Watt Led + 4x super-powered SMT Leds
Eagle Eye II
Wide-Angle 180 degrees High-Powered 3 Watt Luxeon Led--- -1-1/2" x 1" diameter
i was going to buy one each of the first 3 listed in amber, for a testing
(if my countryman ever arrives ... sigh)
scott
#86
Scott, the "Cree Eagle Eye" is the "Cree Eagle Eye" ...
However, I just discovered a couple of days ago two important things:
#1 - the bulb out test is not as simple as I thought; the brake light bulb out test, for example, still triggers with these LEDs in, but only after ~5 seconds, and it didn't trip while I was parked in the garage - it wasn't until I drove off with them fitted that it triggered.
#2 - the front turn signals are not 1156, they're a different animal with a different base. It will probably be necessary to remove the base from the Cree Eagle Eye bulbs and replace it in order to fit them to the front turn signals at least on my R55.
However, I just discovered a couple of days ago two important things:
#1 - the bulb out test is not as simple as I thought; the brake light bulb out test, for example, still triggers with these LEDs in, but only after ~5 seconds, and it didn't trip while I was parked in the garage - it wasn't until I drove off with them fitted that it triggered.
#2 - the front turn signals are not 1156, they're a different animal with a different base. It will probably be necessary to remove the base from the Cree Eagle Eye bulbs and replace it in order to fit them to the front turn signals at least on my R55.
#90
The bulb is PY21W, also known as 7507. It is the same as 1156 but the nubs on the base are offset at 120 degrees (instead of 180 degrees for 1156). You can use an 1156 if you file off one of the nubs.
#91
#93
Yes, but not the "Cree Eagle Eye" version.
The reason I'm focussing on these is that they're a single-chip 4-LED design with a decent lens and heatsinking, reasonably solidly assembled. I'm just not wild about the haphazard multi-PCB/multi-LED assemblies from a reliability perspective; solder is not a good structural material in the face of vibration, and there are too many possible sources of failure.
On a side note, their "patented circuitry" for these lamps appears to be an implementation of the PowTech PT4115 reference design; see some examples here:
http://www.ftp.cnchungary.com/Varsan...tDrive/PT4115/
It's a good design, but I am struggling with how you'd get something patentable out of that...
The reason I'm focussing on these is that they're a single-chip 4-LED design with a decent lens and heatsinking, reasonably solidly assembled. I'm just not wild about the haphazard multi-PCB/multi-LED assemblies from a reliability perspective; solder is not a good structural material in the face of vibration, and there are too many possible sources of failure.
On a side note, their "patented circuitry" for these lamps appears to be an implementation of the PowTech PT4115 reference design; see some examples here:
http://www.ftp.cnchungary.com/Varsan...tDrive/PT4115/
It's a good design, but I am struggling with how you'd get something patentable out of that...
#95
#96
BTW, this is very common practice, because there is such a limited selection of bulbs with 7507 base. 1156 has the same spec, just nubs in different positions. It only takes a few minutes to file off a nub.
#97
Do those canbus Cree Eagle eyes work in a turn signal application? Do they flash normally and no bulbout (without programming, and how do you program a new flash rate anyway)?
I love my Cree back up lights, but I am frustrated with my current LED turn signals. They look great but no matter the resistor value, I can't shake the bulbout and the initial flash rate.
I love my Cree back up lights, but I am frustrated with my current LED turn signals. They look great but no matter the resistor value, I can't shake the bulbout and the initial flash rate.
#98
#100