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Any bulbs on the side and inside of the car can be replaced w/o using resistors. Any bulbs on the front or rear of the car will require led with resistors- this includes the license plate bulb.
I'm not sure about the "side" lights; have you verified this? I believe the scuttle indicator (and other indicator lamps) and the puddle (door) lamps all have warm and cold checks performed by the FRM module. I needed to disable these checks using NCS Expert when I replaced them with LEDs.
Let me know if your LED replacement experience proves different...
You can scroll thru the post for confirmation- check your model in the thread. I have '10 R56 and I have no issues replacing the bulbs w/ leds.on the sides or inside of the car.
I'm not sure about the "side" lights; have you verified this? I believe the scuttle indicator (and other indicator lamps) and the puddle (door) lamps all have warm and cold checks performed by the FRM module. I needed to disable these checks using NCS Expert when I replaced them with LEDs.
Let me know if your LED replacement experience proves different...
Puddles and side scuttles do not have bulb checks. Rule of thumb is if it faces forward or back it has a check. Side or down does not.
Puddles and side scuttles do not have bulb checks. Rule of thumb is if it faces forward or back it has a check. Side or down does not.
Originally Posted by pjdaustin
You can scroll thru the post for confirmation- check your model in the thread. I have '10 R56 and I have no issues replacing the bulbs w/ leds.on the sides or inside of the car.
Yes! I agree; I confirmed this yesterday. I stand corrected!
Put my old turn indicator/puddle bulbs in, turned on the cold and warm checks, and replaced the scuttle/puddle bulbs with LEDs. Ran errands and DID NOT see any warnings!
Thanks to all! The fewer NCS Expert overrides the better when it comes time to re-enable after a dealer reset!
Have HID headlight, fog , driving light , back up , license plate installed today . Flickering when car start !!!! Any body have a solution beside NCS overide the code for 2012 Country man. Thanks
Have HID headlight, fog , driving light , back up , license plate installed today . Flickering when car start !!!! Any body have a solution beside NCS overide the code for 2012 Country man. Thanks
That's perfectly normal. It is the lamp testing sequence executed by the FRM module when the car is started. It should only last a couple of seconds and will not repeat until you restart the car.
So, the canbus LED's I put in the parking/driving light above the fogs a few months ago have started throwing an error!? They worked fine for a month or two. Could it be that the transistor blew out? The light still works other than the error at every start up!
...{snip}...I want to change interior lights and some of outside lights. (park light, fog lights, plates lights) Is it possible to change them without error code, just plug and play?
Park (city) lights, fog lights and plate lights have traditionally been among those that are checked at startup. Interior lights, puddle lights, and scuttle lights should be no problem.
I'd just like to comment that there is a wealth of knowledge in this and other threads about LEDs and lamp checks that has been given to us by some very dedicated folks. If you have questions about the use of LEDs, LED types for the various locations, or about which ones require resistors/coding, please search the following threads; I'm sure your answers (and some other "illuminating" information) will be found there:
You will also find some valuable information in the 2nd Generation MINIs::Modifications forum's Electrical thread.
Please understand that as our R60s progress through time, MINI is free to change the behavior of the various control modules' programming by releasing new datens versions (and, perhaps, modified code). Thus, a newly-delivered R60 may "behave" a bit differently (vis-a-vis lamp checks) than an earlier R60. This may be what is happening to Nguyen. However, I am using what I believe to be the latest datens (V.46) and my license plate lamp checks were set to aktiv. Perhaps Nguyen purchased a lamp with a built in load???
Couper1 do not buy the light from second ebayer from China cause I have to return to him . The light he sell u n not gonna use half of it because most of interior use T10 wedge bulbs . I got all interior about 50 cents a piece for all T10. Exterior please check with superlightled.com and get 2011 model cause they did not update for 2012 yet. And I believe they r the same bulbs. I have Hid installed for head light and led for fog, driving light and reverse . They r look fabulous and they all need resistor for error code. Hope it helps
Thanks
Mine produced in 2011 actually.
I'm from Turkey, can you provide me an ebay link to buy;
Interior bulbs
Park (city) lights
Fog lights
Plate lights
Can these lamps make any harm, or if they gives error code I simply remove.
How hard to install these, where can I find diagrams?
Hidguy.com or superlightled.com for info. They even sell resistor for installation . Look for item 160834608428 right now on eBay.com. U can use it for your interior. Good luck
Hi
I ordered them thank you.
Can you supply link for Park (city) lights?
How can I disassembly, is there any how to or diagrams?
Assuming that you have access to the internet and know how to use one of the many search engines, check the first post in this thread for the lamp designations for the city lights and then search the internet for that bulb type. Superbrightleds is a source for LEDs as has been mentioned in the thread before.
Your Countryman manual has instructions for accessing the city light lamps.
So, the canbus LED's I put in the parking/driving light above the fogs a few months ago have started throwing an error!? They worked fine for a month or two. Could it be that the transistor blew out? The light still works other than the error at every start up!
Change Fog led and moisture got into lamp housing ( fog light area only ) . Anybody has any idea ?? Maybe bad led lamp ??
sounds like the seal on the back was not re-installed correct. if i remember there is a rubber boot and a screw on cap. the cap will go on even if you did not align it correctly. make sure you align all three tabs on the cap with the correct size slots. they are all three different sizes, so make sure you put it back on correct. only thing else i can think of is a crack on the front.
So I decided to screw the damn NCS (no one with experience with me) and went all canbus on the outside and I'm really happy with my bulbs. The things are built like tanks... Interior brightness is INSANE right now... No error codes as of now... Been a few weeks... but anyone else experiencing the front map LEDs not turning truly off? They are always on (even with the car shut off) in a very very dim mode...
So I decided to screw the damn NCS (no one with experience with me) and went all canbus on the outside and I'm really happy with my bulbs. The things are built like tanks... Interior brightness is INSANE right now... No error codes as of now... Been a few weeks... but anyone else experiencing the front map LEDs not turning truly off? They are always on (even with the car shut off) in a very very dim mode...
That's what I decided to do with NCS also. I looked into it deeply but honestly scared to pull the trigger and mess something up on a brand new car. I have not done LEDs on the map lights yet. Do they even require resistors for sure?